HERstory: Spiritual Gangster Part 397...

 

I'm in a "SHE-RAH" kinda mood these daze. No apologies, but pondering. Lots of pondering going on over here in Camp Holly... 

Solo_ojo (unknowingly) taught me a lot about the art of penning while pondering others actions, which feel unjustified. Yea, back in the daze of Gaziantep.

Fast-forward to today: I.Have.Learned.Much in these arts.

So in America today, I see this meme or soundbite (wherever it first came from, I know not): "fuck around and find out." It's been all over Twitter for some time now. I like it, politics aside. 

Let's see what my latest foray into this realm will bring me... I have no expectations.

You know what feels good? Just the art of the email itself and figuring, "what the fuck. Why not? What have I got to lose?" When you express yourself from the heart, there is nothing to lose. One has said their peace & laid it out for others to attack, accept, debate, etc. Whatever the result, I'm already winning, I figure.  As well, I've always thought about what people inevitably say to help express their sympathies with you, etc., "When one door closes, another one opens."  I will take that to heart. 

In other news... next up on deck: channeling energies into useful distractions.

I got this one, too. I have this love/hate relationship with my sewing machine.  I love that Miss Barbara, Sardar, and myself went out shopping for one a few years back here in the bazaar.  I hate that it doesn't have a foot pedal. It sat ignored for a full year- minus the 1st casual dalliance with it soon after its purchase (uhm, putting stickers on it, threading it, checking the tension, etc.).

I've been quite the creative crochet-core enthusiast this past year and now I'm in 'cross-over' mode: splicing together two favorite loves of mine- sewing and crocheting. Yes, knitting is taking a back-seat right now because... crochet, of course!

So I'm making this funky-ass pencil skirt. Once again, the fabric comes from traipsing through the Sulaimani Bazaar with Miss Barbara and Sardar a few years back. Because I'm growing tired of all this conservative dress that has been self-imposed on myself, I'm going all out. Thinking forward to live in Europe, I've got a thigh high split so high that it's going to create it's own windy weather system... 

Anyhow... I'm digging on the two textures. 

I'm also really into the HERstory of my pieces: I've been creating some pieces in the last 6 months and feeling super creative these days- which offsets the bs exploding all around me, as well as throughout the world... To date, my favorite pieces are my wrap-skirt I recently completed (a la Diane Von Furstenberg), a minimalist, sleep racer-back slip dress, and now this stretch pencil skirt. 

The process of art and science keeps me entertained for sure.  Add in some happy hour entertainment and BOOM. I'm a one-woman show. As I've recently stated, I think us Gen-Xers have sailed fairly smoothly through 'lockdown in the age of coronavirus'. 

With each piece I've created, the story that I have woven and inset into the fabric, etc., is monumental.  Each piece has its own life, its own story and each is titillating- however you wish to interpret that is fine by me... To top it off that all this has occurred in Kurdistan is the icing on the cake so to speak. HERstory is real y'all...

HERstory rocks

Dream City

Darkness envelops. Rain prying open the emerging daylight- still refusing to come out.  Not long now though.  The early morning call to prayer surely will determine. Da kine.

Laying on my bed still half asleep, raindrops falling thrills me.  The glorious cacophony (that word is for you Stephen) silences all my other thoughts.  In the distance, though, I hear the kitties running around downstairs- engaged in their dramatic calisthenics, which includes flying off the staircase.

...and BINGO. Loudspeakers go off. I rarely hear the call to prayer in this 'hood. I'm distracted by the sudden thought that this is normal and so I sleep right through it every morning.  What I don't sleep through, though, are the church bells ringing every Sunday morning at 9:30 & 10:30 am... Call to prayer; normal.  Church bells; abnormal :)

Just something I noticed.  That is all.

On another topic, I feel totally normal in my new habitat.  Istanbul is no longer that mysterious lover that I can't quit. That lover that I need to continuously overdose on because I need the fix so badly. 

Istanbul is my constant companion who divulges stories freely now. Secrets for stories,  evoking continuous attention.

A recent outing this week after work to Eminönü, I became acquainted with a few of the city's gems; the terzi street with lush fabrics that I am now drooling about purchasing to make my first HollyCouture item of clothing I've been envisioning in my mind for quite a long time.  Yes, finally something is materializing from some incredible material I bought in Oman earlier this year... or last year. Can't quite remember as Oman is quite charming in the fabric store area- as well as just natural beauty overall.  Damn, that country keeps speaking to me too... but the weather... the desert heat... I'd have to be pretty motivated to move back to the Middle East think.

Also I found among the narrow alleys the Mehmet Effendi coffee line... L-Fezz took me years ago & I knew where in the general area it was, but now I know... I too will wait in that coffee line one day for some fresh beans.

Kitchen supply hot deals are to be found in Eminönü as well.  A baker's wet dream of a street.  Certainly in this city where one can find a baking rack to the tune of 70TL... Çok pahala...

Art supply stores galore! I was introduced to one in particular.  The story goes something like this.  The owners don't charge the usual astronomical Turkey taxes to customers.  I walked out with a set of basic watercolors, etc.

THAT was a fun outing. Even the part where we got lost after getting off at 2 wrong metro exits.  Who knew that you had to take Yeniköy exit & get on the Marmary line to get off at Sirkeci. No matter. Twas interesting to walk around the Istanbul University neighborhood for a bit.  We had a ball.  You know, da kine.



But before playing out that scenario, I have more to divulge; more secrets to share from stories passed on down to me by the city. Pinking shears. Yes, pinking shears are on my mental list now.  Now that I spied that fabric... This idea I envision: the skirt originally face from the Saturday Alfama flea market.  Lisbon is another great city that felt good to be in.  Felt like I could hang for a while in (a while being a 2-year time frame, more or less).

Solo_ojo & I made our way there a few years back on a real estate-seeking 'business' trip.  Think of it as r&r from Gaziantep if you wish... Anyway, I wore the shit outta that skirt, and still want to.  Problem is that, due to the design, there is pressure that comes together at this precarious seam continuously when wearing it that it tears.  It's in a very focal point of the design- the ass.  It's kinda like a long shaped diamond (on its n/s axis) where 4 seams come together.  Anyway, time to re-create it.

I knew there was a reason for buying 3 different kinds of material on that Oman trip with Sher-bear.  I've been sitting on it for a year maybe and finally the light bulb went on.  It shocked me as it went on as I was walking by a terzi (tailor shop) and

fabrık mağâzası

I see some sort of lightweight dark, fine twill. A more conservative 
dark blue/gray/green color, yet with a funky twill design twist.  It 
should contrast most interestingly with the brighter colored Islamic 
geometric print from the Omani fabrik. Perhaps a contrasting thread too-
 in a larger length stitch.  maybe that yellow fabric... Oh the ideas!  
The decisions!  The excitement of an idea morphing into a design into an
 eventual article of clothing!!!

 I'm back to sleep.

The birds have started their freaking out about the impending sunrise... Not long now. Now long now until I fall back into a deep slumber.  Upon waking I'll wonder if this was all just a dream; Dream City.

*kerplunk

Turkey Trotting 2015

I was recently in Turkey, for a few reasons. Here they are: Istanbul, Gaziantep, Antalya...

the cats of Istanbul

on a walkabout to Moda for some cold beverages

kitty kat capsule hostels

Gaziantep

Ada sunshine

in the old quarter of Gaziantep

Chalet Settar

mating season

Nano Nano...

gallery hopping for the free booze

Antalya Archaeology

with Jamila Jordan ELF :)

shenanigans here in the kingdom of Bahrain

Sitting in bed with my requisite cuppa joe and 2 kittens (Mischief & Mischiefess) with a new addition: the air con is ON!  Yep, it's that time folks.  I held it off as long as I could...

I'm reflecting on my time in Bahrain.  I'm well into my 7th month here and it feels... well it feels kinda cozy.  I was with the Fulbrighters early in the week at a gala event that the US Ambassador put on here- that would be the 4th of July par-tee that happens every April- and we were discussing getting ready to leave. It felt odd because I'm not leaving... But I've spent enough time living in countries and leaving, and remember that feeling- that a chapter is coming to an end.  What have I still not accomplished?  Where did all the time go? Why did I not meet a Mr. Right, and only Mr. Wrong's, or perhaps more aptly, Mr. Right Nows ;)

But seriously, it feels good to stay put for some more time.  I started to think how they will unload all their possessions- likely at my place for storage until the next set of Fulbrighter's appear in September! I remember back to Gaziantep last May and my unloading of 2 years of collecting.  It was so much fun actually as I had a moving party complete with adult beverages and peeps just came over and walked away with my pre-loved stuff.  I didn't even try to sell anything.  I just wanted to give it all away- the blender, the rug, the plants, the psychedelic lights (I hope you are enjoying those Farahnaz ;), and just all the other cool stuff that I had amassed.  It is nice to know they are amongst good friends and people who need things.

Now I remember the trips I made with Ahmed, Farahnaz, Selin and Marc to the Syrian refugee camps. I had loads of clothing to donate on a couple occasions- the last one in May I believe, after I had already been informed that I was a Fellow recipient in Bahrain.  I thought to myself, "what will I do with all these winter clothes? "  BAM! Pack up a small bag of the goodies, and donate the rest to Ahmed's family and friends in the camps near Gaziantep. I remember being amazed at the sight of rocking up in the car to the various camps- some tent camps and some container camps.  One was just opening that week- a camp of 10,000 containers that can hold 100,000 people.  It seemed so inconceivable to me that you just pick up from your civil war-torn country and, are lucky enough, to make it across the border and re-structure your life. These people are a stone's throw from their country and cannot do a thing.  They await news each day from back home.

These  moments that I spent soaking in what I was seeing, they have changed me. Even as I type, my eyes tear up. Why? Because I've somehow forgotten these feelings until now as I relive them. As always though, there is always a context for helping people in need.  Sure enough, I opened my email this morning and in my inbox was an email from a friend who is hosting Easter dinner Sunday evening.  We are all cooking different dishes (I'm bringing Nachos and tequila ;)  She belongs to a local women's group here on isle and they are accepting donations for the women's prison here in Bahrain. It's not a big prison of course as it's a small island with a small population, but it is full of, mostly, runaway maids trying to escape abusive employers, etc. They cannot get back to their own countries and life looks pretty bleak for them at this point- regardless if they broke the laws or not. So the women need international calling cards and underwear mostly. 

This brings me to another story (I know, I'm all over the place this morning with this post).  Last night I was heading out to a swank diplomatic party with a friend and my GPS always screws up in this one spot on isle in downtown Manama.  It always takes me near Pearl Roundabout- which has been closed for about 3 years now... ahem. Anyway, it re-routed me through the Pakistani/Indian immigrant hoods and to the guts of the souk. The hood was so interesting to soak in the sights: men everywhere pouring out onto the streets.  All these guys are working here for MINIMAL wages and Thursday evening is the night to chill in their hood since Friday is their only day off.  The men were all looking into my car as if they had not seen women before. They leave their families back home and come here to work their asses off to send their meager wages back home and subsist on what little is left over.  Many do not see their wives and children for YEARS.  From time to time I talk to a few and ask them, "Is it worth it?" And the answer is always an overwhelming YES.  I think to myself, 'Wow, this is not how it's supposed to be.  How is it that you have a family and can't be with your family?"  I have no answers, but I am humbled and grateful for all that I have, and don't have, but because I am a US citizen I am... I don't even know what the word is, or maybe I don't want to pen it...

Oh, by the way, the birthday soiree (Tony Stark of the Middle East) was a smashing success.  The highlight was the shwarma station in the backyard of the dude's villa- which was HUGE.  That got me and my party friends thinking as well. The villa was huge, and swank, but not really a 'home-y' feeling, in terms of what I (we) considered home-y to be back home (NYC, Phily & Hawaii we represent). There is this feeling of artifice here.  Things are outrageous, sure.  But that doesn't necessarily do it for me. I guess just the term 'compound' has some weird connotations for me.  I mean, they are reinforced, walled living sites, complete with guard shacks and different levels of security upon entering.  It's weird to think you're 'inside the compound.' I also think back to the Syrian refugee camps as they are in their compounds, but to keep them in, and outside of the local communities.  Same difference? Different passport. Different socio-economic status. Different as night and day.

As I backtrack in thought to the camps, we all noticed (hard not to) the barreled barb wire surrounding the walls of the camps.  I asked someone if it was to keep people in.  I got an answer that it is also to keep people out.  This, of course, gets into politics- in this context concerning Turkey and Syria and their governments being at odds with one another (this is an absolutely white-washed way of coining this, but I just can't get into it now). I guess I'll just end here on this.  I'm affected- that is all I want to say.  I have ideas. I have opinions. I have prejudices. I have compassion. I have doubts. You get the picture.  It's an emotional pot of stew brewing continuously and episodes of spillover in between some relative calm (relative).

Okay, I'm pulling it together to get out of bed.  It's close to 10am and I need to get my day on.  The party, oh yes the party... Well, there were 2 parties: first one being cocktails and pupus at the pool bar at the Intercontinental for the US Embassy's "Bahrain-America Friendship Week." This was the primer.  This was actually the reward for my Matilda (my GPS) taking me through the NARROW alleys of the Manama Souk where I don't know how I actually managed a 3 kilometer stretch of men swarming, cars double-parked, sometimes 2-way traffic down what seems impossible for even a 1-way traffic situation, bicycles, women running in/out of shops with their long, black abayas flowing, etc. Somehow the chaos works though. It did not seem abnormal for anyone else.  Whereas my ass (in a sweet Dolce and Gabbana LBD number) was gripping the seat, and it was tense, but with broken moments of outright laughter too. We took ourselves so seriously for the first kilometer, and by the last, I was indeed happy to see the InterCon, but decided that THAT experience was one of my highlights here in the Kingdom.

Party #2- Once again, Matilda was fussing about logistics of Roads, Blocks, Villa #s, etc.  We had a mini caravan on tour.  We eventually found our way inside Citadel Compound a narrow street with cars all piled up in the near distance. Right away this girl is thinking ahead to trying to pull out of this hot mess in the wee hours after partaking in adult libations so... As always, I parked far enough way to be able to make a 5-point turn outta there no problem. Not that THAT helped us in locating my car upon departing the soiree.  Just a minor detail though...

...And the party. Earlier in the day I anticipated sussing out a place in the yard to pass out until the early morning hours, but this recourse was in fact not needed.  We came home at a fairly respectable hour... fairly. Upon various reconnaissance surveys of Tony Stark's residence, there was not a corner in the party area that was not covered with adult beverages.  I mean, whatever you wanted, it was there.  Music was evolving. Crowd was cutting loose. Disco ball was spinning. A good time was had by all.  There were some other highlight, but best I keep my lips sealed...

Unfortunately I did not take any pictures, but my comrades did.  Perhaps I'll include them later when I get them.  We were looking hot after all.  Everybody was looking hot- in an environment-specific way (I'll keep it at that as well).

So, that's all I've got.  I think I've confused you all enough with my 'writing off the top of my head' style of entertainment... Oh yea, Ima going to pull the hungover card and not edit this so... there's that

wanderlust: lusting to wander

Good morning from my Upcountry HQ in Makawao, cowboy country, Hawaii, Maui, USA, Solar System of the Sun, Space

yea, more like space out ya'll... Laying up in bed with the cool-ish morning breeze wafting in and birds chirping, dogs barking, roosters roosting, and... wait for it... COFFEE. So you see, I'm already back in my 'position' when I blog from afar.  It honestly feels strange to blog in Amerika...

Anyhow... ROAR. I'm feeling it. Those of you in the know, know :)  Anyway, yesterday was a major day in many ways for me.  It was a flight finalization to Bahrain. It was a finally get the scale to weigh my bags day. It was a beautiful, sunny day with hardly any humidity.

So, what's a girl to do with these perfect conditions- reach the beach.  What bikini to wear? Where to place my pareo in the sand? Where is the sun? Oh look, the sand is returning to Baldwin Beach on the right side after nearly all summer's absence. Oh the beauty I soaked up.  No wind, no crowds, fizzy water, BBQ tofu, and my book- which, by the way, is so amazing that I have decided to do an 'annotated bibliography' of sorts with it as one of my future posts.  More on that later though.  So, back to the beach.

The only minor distraction was the thoughts of all the shark sightings and/or attacks in Hawaii recently... It got me thinking, when I wasn't reading or daydreaming or forecasting, why is this happening?  What is it? Global warming- waters rising & food chain disrupted?  Fukushima fallout w/prevailing currents bring all that waste here? Sharks getting too hot and going agro on us? Sharks losing food chain food as food chain is dying out due to increase in water temps along w/debris? Sharks have to come near shore to feed now? Have their feeding hours changed due to climate change- is it not typically just dawn and dusk they are out on the prowl for chow? Is it something simple (regional) like El Nino or La Nina? Is it just a natural metamorphoses that has been occurring on a geological scale that we can't observe because it's a long process and we're in it? WTF?  I want answers!

So the weather has changed for the better yesterday.  With that, my sunset-ish run was SWEET. It is the 1st run in a week where I haven't stopped- I'm talking only a 4mile run too... I realize that my days are numbered running here and soon I'll be running through another landscape! During my trot I started to think about my future running routes. What would they be like? Will I have to carry a little sweat towel? Will I have to carry water? Will I actually run at night (I did just purchase a neon yellow tee for this very reason)? Then I started thinking about yoga classes. What will they be like? And then my future apartment, my car, etc.  All such newness coming up in about a week and I'm totally stoked. As a side dish, I was also thinking about work too...

One thing I didn't think about- the Syria conflict.  I gave myself that. I gave myself an hour to not think about it.  Actually it didn't even enter my mind. "IT" didn't even attempt to. There was a full hour where it had no bearing on my outlook. This I enjoyed.  Much of my time this summer has been spent reading what has been happening throughout the region I just left- Gezi Park, Turkish PM RTE, Gaziantep, Syria, refugees, etc. Our political machine seems to be kicking into high gear this week and who knows about next week... My unsolicited thoughts: brains, not bombs. Syria needs aid.  Everybody needs to ask Mr. Syria himself what he wants.  Why not? While we're at it, let's ask everybody again.  Why is this UN Security Council thing not working out properly? A decision should be made together- whatever it is.  Don't stop talking until a decision. Maybe this is how it actually happens, but I get the idea the principles of the idea (of a council) have been lost to pomp and circumstance long ago. We need progressive think tanks. I guess we have them- of all persuasions. So, what is the problem? Is it that THE world machine is just too damn big now? There is no more hand-shaking... What seems to be concrete right now is Russia sticking to its UN Security Council tenet that anything outside of a full UN SC approval is thought to be an act of aggression (no quote on that one, just round-about). Who's the bully? There's definitely more than 1 bully.  And it's not always a single entity anymore, is it?  blah blah blah.  I'm bumming out my zen-morning trip...

Let's see, what's on the agenda today?  I had to alter my plans to go to Palauea and assist in a current archaeological dig. So... this leaves me free. Free to go to my post office box and pick up my 3 new Arabic language reference books (dictionary, workbook, and something else I've forgotten already), and a care-package from King-Cab. Then I am free to go to do my rounds of house-sitting deeds. And then the beach. And then a late lunch... You get the idea.  I have no agenda for the day.  I'm ready to fly the coop.  Why? Because I've got a serious case of:
wait for it...
WANDERLUST: lusting to wander

The Last Days of Disco?

The last days of disco Turkey

As I type from my home office bed on a Sunday morning here in Gaziantep I realize that it is not just another Sunday morning.  It is my 2nd to last Sunday morning in Gaziantep. It's rather monumental- certainly for me.  Certainly for friends that are leaving/staying. As we all bid each other adieu and the population of Petek Apartments dwindles as each soldier bravely leaves their cell block barracks that they have taken shelter in for the past year or 2...

Yes, we are dropping in numbers. One combatant, Long Dark Rain Cloud, left already.

NOTE: As most all you should know by now, I have pet names for everybody. I even have pet names for my important computer files. They are sweet. They are smart. They are silly. Okay, I will press on.

Two more, Thurston & Lovey,  will escape from the trenches today. Many returners have already left for their homelands in order to take advantage of their vacations before summer school begins, etc.  Some are leaving for bigger arenas; some are leaving in hopes of finding another arena; some had no choice but to leave; some are leaving with dreams of wanderlust; some are simply leaving.

The point being that we have all experienced a sort of 'boot camp.'  There were ups and downs, but generally it was just a matter of flat-lining in a day-to-day existence.  We all grew collectively as separate units.  It was a long, strange trip for all of us- Turks, and all internationals alike.  We all had our growing pains.  We all learned how to give and take between the cultures.  We all learned our 'systems' of operation.  As with every system, there are diversions and quirky side alleys, open-spaces and backstreets, as opposed to the main avenues, mass suburbs and MOI so to speak.

 It is a beautiful thing- to reinvent ourselves. You know- to all of us leaving: When one door closes, another opens.  This... this is the driving force. This keeps me wanting more. This drug so powerful that I am a happy addict for life. I am thankful to have experienced life here in SE Turkey. 

SIDE NOTE: drinking coffee and staring into the space formerly known as 'Holly's fairly tidy living room'. Again, most know that I like to be fairly organized. More than fairly actually. Right now chaos is seeping into my life. Oh how I wish I could just dump out all my empty bags and start throwing things into each.  This is how it is organized in my mind:

box 1 ("school nerd")
This gets shipped via MNG Cargo to Ankara and then to the US Embassy for shipping to Bahrain US Embassy. This consists of school books, scholarly books and anything else remotely associated with work. This is a real box... I will meet the box in Ankara to hand deliver.

box 2 (The Black Box)
This is my trusty black Da Kine rolling canvas duffel bag. Very durable, yet 1 wheel is all askew.  This means this one does not travel far. It stays in Istanbul awaiting my return in 1 year... inshallah (please Vicky... please)
Full of clothing- mostly winter, which I will not need in Bahrain.

NOTE: each 'box' will contain a packing list, and I will have a master copy (actually 2; one hardcopy and one back-up file). 

box 3 (Mr. Preppy)
This is my trusty checker-print Da Kine rolling canvas duffel bag. Very durable + has 4 working wheels. It also stays in Istanbul awaiting my return in 1 year... inshallah (please Vicky... please)
Full of memories that cannot escape my life yet (mostly travel interests).

NOTE: boxes 1, 2 and 3 to be shipped to Istanbul via MNG Cargo

box 4 (Aegean Mermaid)
This is my trusty green swirly patterned Da Kine rolling canvas duffel bag. Very durable and in working order. The Aegean Mermaid travels to Istanbul and Hawaii with me. It is full of presents.Some additional things that I need to take to Bahrain go in here.

box 5 (Mr. Dangerous)
This  is my untrustworthy rolling duffel bag hastily bought in a back alley somewhere in Istanbul I believe... Can't even remember.  I feel that I cannot trust this bag after completing 1 final mission back to a new homeland (Hawaii) where it will immigrate and try to fit in to its local surroundings. It is actually only a rotation box- only if I really need it...

box 6 (Pleasure Box)
This is my acid-green injured upright carry-on rolling bag. It had some problems over the past years. Its color has dulled to a decayed, almost forgotten green- almost unrecognizable now. This must stay here in Gaziantep I fear. The Pleasure Box is full of books that I don't want to part with, but can if absolutely necessary.  It will be hosted by none other than Solo_ojo.  He doesn't know this tidbit of information yet.  I'll likely spring it on him sometime next week when he's feeling nostalgic about how our friendship has blossomed  throughout 2 countries, 2 jobs and 2 revolutions...

box 7 (Mrs Beg, Borrow and Steal)
This is (my) loaned-out red carry-on rolling bag. It travels to Ist and Hawaii- back to its rightful mistress (owner). It has been a good loaner, and will bring immense good luck to its mistress. It has been put in charge of such tasks as secreting away my valuables during my stay here (original idea, no?)

So, that is that.  I'm sure that I missed something. I love it that one of the Turkish teachers said they would help me pack if I needed it because they were just as insanely structured and organized as I am with packing (I think perhaps even more so actually).

In essence, I have a lot to do, and finding it difficult to throw myself into it.  I am in the process of giving away EVERYTHING from my apartment.  Everybody better come and get it today because  one of the workers here is going to take everything this afternoon!!!

Now to finish up my 2nd cuppa joe and get the organizing started...

ps- there is a revolution in Turkey right now.  It's fucked up. The people are tired of the current govt trying to micro-manage their every daily move.  It's a good fight.  Much respect to all the peeps out on the front lines for the past 5 days.  I fully support and am doing what I can to further the cause.

feeling the Maui love

monsanto MUST BE STOPPED. GMOs gotta go:  watch it & get into my head-space this morning...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=0I2xZSlLVjA

Sunday morning here in the Fertile Crescent. Lots of fickle weather as of late. Yesterday it kinda tried to snow for a few minutes (after I already packed away all my winter clothing last Wednesday) while I was downtown. Today it is warm and sunny.

I'm back in bed with coffee brewing and hot oats cooking on the stove.  I had a lovely run this morning.  Up early (no sleep past the early a.m. call to prayer), I was surfing the net.  By the way, 5 a.m. Turkey time is prime time to see what all my friends are up to back home in Hawaii- exactly 13 hours behind in the time zone scheme of things.

Well, Hawaii's citizens are up to A LOT today. They are fighting a giant- a giant coackroach of a corporate empire rat race. Okay, I said it. Yep monsanto (no capitalization for an UNproper noun).

As the sun was rising, I was increasing in my rage after reading all the articles posted. I didn't feel hopeless though.  I felt hopeful because my friends on Maui and throughout the Hawaiian Islands ROCK. They are getting the job done.  They are in R-EVOLUTION mode.

Being so far away from Maui makes it difficult sometimes. Like this time. After I had had my fill of information, I set out to go for a morning run.  I ran today for Maui- for Hawaii. For my friends that are on the front lines there fighting the government- who insist on trying to get into our kitchens. WTF is it with the government trying to get into our vaginas, as well as our kitchens?

On the subject of front lines, I, admittedly, haven't kept up so much with America's revolutions.  I have my senses full over here watching THESE revolutions: Syria, a free Kurdistan, etc.  I'm front and center over here trying to take all this in in as graceful a way as I can (I know I cuss too much, but hey, it's a product of being an archaeologist and always being around construction crews. Oh how I miss being around construction crews).

But I digress... so, people over here are dying- loads of them every day- fighting for their cause against their corrupt governments. What I realized, though, is that I decided that Hawaii's fight with monsanto wasn't as important as these people's fights because... well, I see dead people on the news every day because of these fights...

BUT this morning something snapped in me. It comes down to this: fighting an injust government that is trying to make too many personal decisions for us- we the people. Why do governments, the world over, want to come into our homes? Why into our bedrooms? Our kitchens? Our gardens?

So I turned my rage into pure, divine energy and had a kick-ass run.  It wasn't yet 7 a.m. so I had the place to myself again.  Every lap around the track was encouragement. I want Maui peeps to feel my encouragement for their dedication.  I was running so fast I could hardly keep my breath. But I thought, 'Maui peeps are in the rain today holding signs and supporting their (our) right to exist and be allowed to make (some of) our own decisions.

Perhaps my friends over here think this can't compare: people in America fighting for the right to have a GMO-produced food labelled as such so we can avoid buying/ingesting it, when their governments are KILLING them. Our government is killing us too with GMOs, but it's a slow death- unlike what I see over here. Our government kills us with cancer-causing agents that are leaked/seeped into our foods, our lands- all in an effort to produce 'superfoods!'

I do not mean to make light of the situation, anywhere.  It is just different. What is common is that people have to rally and fight for their rights in almost every aspect of life- anywhere.  period.

Okay, I'm done with that. And with my oatmeal (I hope the oats weren't GMOs but I don't know as the bag is in Turkish).  I hope not. I can say that here, in the southeast, knowing what is in one's food is not a 'thing' here. For whatever reasons, I don't know.  The health issue thing isn't so prevalent.  I know a core group of friends here where it is indeed a concern, but it is the rare exception to the rule for sure.  Perhaps in other parts of Turkey it is more of a concern for people.  I don't even know the active status of monsanto in Turkey. This is something I will check into momentarily...

Back to my exciting life... ahem. So, yesterday turned out to be a horrible day weather wise here in Gaziantep.  It ended up kinda snowing. I was downtown with Solo_ojo and we were getting our 'lists' checked off when we got caught up in the foul weather. Actually we were waiting for the tram and noticed the dark, brooding weather on the horizon while it was lightly raining. We both saw it, turned to each other, and decided to verbalize that we were going to forget about it and maybe nothing bad will happen... At least I had the good sense to have a beanie on my head. It is ironic, though, that 3 days before I made it a personal task to pack up all my weather clothing since spring sprung...
Back to that checklist: Mehmet the tailor called and my pants were ready. Awesome! I am addicted to having a tailor now... I got to eat my favorite Turkish food- Iskender. I bought some fistik baklava for friends in Izmir for next weekend. Oh yes, I also made it to the eczane too! I hate going to the eczane in Gaziantep.  Not sure why.  I really only do it when I am traveling in Turkey.

Here is perhaps one reason why I hate it here: Yesterday I walked to the counter and asked in Turkish for 'dort tane Yasmin lutfen', and he brings me back only 1. I say again 'dort' (4) and he, almost reluctantly, goes back and brings me 3 more- all the while the guy standing next to me at the counter is just staring at me... It is ALWAYS weird...

Last weekend in Konya I contemplated going into an eczane there, but somehow talked myself out of it... heh heh. My partner in crime with me in Konya only laughed at me when I told her the story. I guess I think of Konya as such a conservative place, but a lot of people assure me that, even though it is difficult to purchase alcohol there, it has the highest percentage of drinkers there.  I wasn't so sure it was going to be so easy to buy alcohol so I brought my trusty flask with me! That's another story though...

Okay, my work here is done.

finally a moment to lay on my couch and ponder...

Yea,

Like how I ended that last post... I vaguely remember having an IT issue while traveling with my iPad. It was kind of like a moment where if I didn't post at that very moment, I was going to lose the entire thing.  Oh well... so, THAT was Portugal. Awesome. Here are a few disconnected yet completely valid words that comes to mind when I think to my recent Portugal trip:
Driving- actually co-piloting...
Castles- especially Castello Novo (?). Spent an excellent evening sleeping in the car on the hill overlooking this- in a parking lot, near the cemetary.
Drinking: Vinho Verde, Reds, Whites, Ports- I didn't discriminate...
Porking: Yes, I did a lot of pork sausage- and cheeses- and breads
Giant Waves
Alfama (Lisboa district): lots of colorful stories much too colorful to even divulge here in my blog...
Boots
Car Camping: and waking up in various driveways, parking lots, woods, castles, open fields, etc.
countryside coffeehouses

So it would have been wise to blog more in the moment as it is all a bit fuzzy already. One highlight was arriving in the surf town of Navare 2 days late after Hawaii dude Garrett McNamara rode a 100' wave- check the link!
(http://www.guardian.co.uk/sport/2013/jan/29/surfer-garrett-mcnamara-100ft-wave)

I arrived back to Gaziantep loaded up with essentials too (this encompasses food/beverage/boots/ entertainment)...

cheap ticket to paradise...

Sunday afternoon in the Fertile Crescent

A perfect gloomy day to traipse around the neighborhood and eat a superb Sunday brunch- incomplete, of course, because of the absence of mimosas. Of course, I'm all about finding solutions to problems these days... I'm resourceful. My day has morphed into a 'clean the apartment' afternoon. Whenever I get ready to go on an odyssey I like to start with a clean house upon return.

So I found myself a tailor! Tailor Mehmet downtown near the kale. Awesome man. Somehow we managed to communicate that I want a pencil skirt made from an exact pattern that I have.  We went to the fabric store yesterday afternoon (fabric PORN I swear!). What a wonderland fabric stores here in Turkey. It was pure ecstasy. I wanted to savor the experience. Nothing like touching every bolt of fabric of the right weight, color & texture.  AWESOME!!!

Can't describe anymore to you all without becoming obscene how much I enjoyed the experience.  Check that one off the list now- personal tailor in Turkey.  After the pencil skirt, I plan on taking a few more trousers to him as well... I can see this will become a new addiction for me. Surprisingly cheap as well.  Perhaps by next year I will have myself my own sewing machine so I can do it myself.  I miss my sewing machine.  I hope Katie-girl is having a good time with it.

It seems this post is going to be filled with the most mundane of things, but I figure that for all you guys reading back home, it might be terribly fascinating.  Honestly, just going to the grocery store still holds fascination for myself down here. Folding laundry even holds more intrigue for me than it did back in Amerika...

One thing that does not fascinate me with the mundane, though, is the state of my houseplants.  I've never had to deal with caring for (house)plants.  In Hawaii they just flourish, unless they are a rare breed of orchid that takes some more non-commital commitment. Seriously though, orchids are THE MOST tempramental of plants to attempt to shower with love.  You basically have to ignore them for them to flourish. All the sudden one day you look in the dark corner where you stuck the orchid plant to recover in ICU and BOOM it's blooming!!! When did that happen?  So yea, my houseplants are fussy right now.  Not enough sunlight? Too cold? Not enough water? Inside? Outside today? WTF DO YOU WANT FROM ME??? Arghhhhhhhh. But I persist in trying to diagnose their problems. I'm looking at them right now- all frumpy and giving me this passive-aggressive 'vibe'.

I was inspired yesterday to make Apple Cobbler- based on a recipe that I barely remember assisting with for New Year's... I had to put myself back in that state of mind I was in at the time to sort it all out... Turns out I was able to successfully achieve that state and reproduce a decent quality homemade munchies snack.. Drank the remainder of Malibu Rum in the process as well. 

Loads of laundry this weekend AND I'm even cold-water soaking all my wool and cashmere sweaters! I know, can't get more titillating than explaining this folks (*yawn*). There is a zen art that I have discovered when hanging clothes to dry on the clothes-horse thingy. I get absolute pleasure from this experience.  It really derives out of necessity: how to hang clothes to dry just so perfect that one doesn't have to iron them afterwards... This is end goal here.

In other news, I cleaned off my kitchen counter complete with anti-bacterial medicines... Even had to burn some Nag Champa incense to cover up the medicinal explosion. I suppose I won't discuss the loo cleaning this morning, but I did that too.

For entertainment talk-story I will divulge that I am currently absorbed in watching all the original "Pink Panther" series that Blake Edwards directed with such movie-star greats as David Niven, Elke Sommer, Peter Sellers, etc... I never thought anything about Robert Wagner before, but he sure was hot when he was young... Stupid funny stuff that seems enchanting while experiencing a mildly cold Southeastern Turkish winter.  I also watched the first episode of "Little Mosque on the Prairie"- which is hilarious and I highly suggest it to all friends back home.

I'm looking for some interesting books to buy in Portugal so if any of you have any titles of stuff you think I should read, let me know. As well, any apps I should know about.

Weather Ping Pong here this winter. Where is all the bloody snow? I have this increased fascination with winter clothing and enjoy amassing this type of garb. I can't figure it out- especially as I should be in a warmer place living... I can't help but think that in the back of my mind I'll need winter wear if I move to Cappadocia... Well, where to live next in Turkey is another consideration I'm considering. I mean, if I'm going to live in a cold area, I need to be snowboarding. This is ridiculous right now. So close, yet so far... And why is it so damn expensive to snowboard here? Okay, who reading this post knows someone with a ski resort here in Turkey. Hook a girl up... What about Kayseri? Must be some damn good skiing on Erciyes, no? What about cross-country skiing? Do peeps do that here? Where do you get the equipment? Snowshoes? Nothing like a good snowshoe expedition through the forest.

Okay I'm tiring of this. I'm thinking of doing a reconnaissance survey of my closet and check out all the luscious clothes of mine that I have here that I can't wear here. This includes shoes/boots as well.

looking for my own little paradise on this side of the planet...

2112 Yep... still here

...and the last time I checked, today, so was my student loan debt. Alas, Plan B, which was Plan A all along: work like a dog and pay it off...

Ordinary evening on this much deserved Aloha Friday here in the Fertile Crescent.  Requisite de-stress routine pau hana quitting time back at the apartment, dinner w/da boyz at our new fav spot here in 'better-than-decent' restaurant row that has in the past few months spawned a slew of fairly cool, low-key eateries.

People watching was quite to my enjoyment this evening as well. Some folks that were very easy on the eyes if you catch my drift.  What is happening in this Universitesi mahallesi (neighborhood) of Gaziantep in the past few months? It's a noticeable improvement in atmosphere. There is literally a tri-fecta of new restaurants within 150 meters from my apartment building. And a real coffee joint, apparently as I haven't indulged yet since my coffee is the best in town-especially on the weekends...

I'm glad we're all still here actually. I mean, I've built up quite the wardrobe in the past decade, and with the addition to winter wear, well it's complete. Except for boots. More boots. I need more boots. I'm mad about boots. Thank the Mayans for that. To celebrate the lack of apocalyptic behavior, I will celebrate life by purchasing an exquisite pair of... yep you guessed it- BOOTS in Portugal.  I just love a  European downtown shopping district with a mission!

Only 2 more hours left in this day. Like every other day at this time. Whatever. I still hear the neighbor chicks being loud and obnoxious w/their squeaky voices. I still take my trash out- that is when Warden Woodie slacks on his duties. I will still go through my bouts of listening to crap 90s music when I get in 'those' moods. I will continue to hope that suddenly hip Gaziantep births a tri-fecta of super-healers: acupuncturist/masseuse/chiropractor.

If I'm not making sense to you, you don't know me really well likely. That's alright. Plenty of time now. Ima just hang here in the Fertile Crescent and chill the f*ck out. The next cataclysmic event is prolly not 'scheduled' to happen for a while. Please refresh my memory if this is incorrect. Am I missing something? There is nothing on my iCal to suggest otherwise anyway...

Okay it is officially Aloha Friday NIGHT. Let the shenanigans begin and continue throughout the weekend.

PS- I'm sorry to report that I'm still not proofing these posts.  I do miss my editor-at-large dearly. He kept me in check... RIP lil Kolohe K Kitty Kat, aka Jackie Love. 

testing 1, 2, 3. testing

With the recent first snowfall of the season, I’ve started to preoccupy myself with thoughts of snow. Logical. Now, I don’t have much experience in snow or living in places where it snows so I’m a bit of a neophyte. What I do enjoy about it is how the ordinary landscape scenery morphs into some kind of wonderland. I mean, even Gaziantep appears ‘mystical’ when viewed with snow-cover…

Gaziantep also appears ‘mystical’ to me when I think of its ancient history, but that is another matter entirely.  Gaziantep mostly just appears… ordinary to me. Ordinary in the sense that, let’s be honest, it’s not a really pretty area. It’s not the mountains and it’s not the beach. The landscape is just ordinary. What is extraordinary to me, when I’m in my office at work looking out the window to the south from the 5^th floor is the view- unimpeded rolling hills straight to Syria, which is involved in a shitstorm of human rights violations right now.

But I digress. This is supposed to be a happy blog post where I keep to the weather report, as well as my esoteria thoughts which some of you get and perhaps many of you can’t even begin to piece my abstract thoughts together into a logical puzzle.  Anyhow… uhm yea. The weather. So, all this snow has put me in the mood for 2 things: a semi-deserted beach (populated with my own storyville characters that I have exquisitely brewed up in my alternate reality world complete with names and even pet names) OR going snowboarding. I feel I should make use of all this snow that is surely to continue to fall, right? 

Even though I am a snow-neophyte, I have been able to spend quality time in some of the best snow resorts in the world.  Most precious on this list includes snowboarding in the Andes of both Argentina and Chile.  Vancouver also ranks on the list (a bit slushy, but what views from mountain to ocean. As does the Snowy Mountains in Australia (well, you can’t see the ocean from that vantage point, but it was still lovely). As does Alaska. What a great ego-booster mountain to snowboard Alyeska is!  As is various parts of Amerika. I will even include that silly little Hunter Mountain just outside of New York City a few hours.

I’d like to add Turkey to this list. This year seems like the likely year. It’s unfortunate that I have 2 sets of board gear in 2 separate states in a country far, far away… Anyway, if any of you phantom readers (that refuse to identify yourselves properly by officially following my blog…) are from Turkey and have knowledge of snow parks here, let me know your opinions.

 Erzerum is high on my list. I suppose just for the novelty.  The place (city?) seems enshourded in mystery.  It is like an ice-city perhaps in the wintertime as it seems the coldest temperatures come from there.  I know there is a quaint little ski resort there. Yes, this sounds sweet. Sweet meaning that you don’t have to wait 20 minutes in the chairlift line to get back up the mountain like you have to do in many places.

Kayseri holds some intrigue as well.  Perhaps mainly because it is so close to Göreme- which I love, and have spotted some seriously handsome men residing in… So there is that. I assume that there are a few ski areas there and nearby. 

What is odd, though, is that nobody talks about these places. They exist. Do locals go there? Do ex-pats go there? Who skis/snowboards in this country? I don’t recall anyone at work talking about going skiing. I don’t recall any of my Istanbul friends talking about going boarding. So, here lies the mystery of who is populating these mountains of fun. Speaking of fun, I do hope there are powder days at these places. Nothing better than wiping out in feather-light fluff!

So, I will conduct some investigations and create an action-research plan accordingly complete with a reconnaissance survey. Implementing a data recovery plan would be the icing on the cake… Perhaps in Cappadocia? 

Something that goes well with snow is apres snowboard session cocktails at the lodge.  Sitting amongst other ‘pleasantly exhausted from tearing up the slopes friends’ is just plain awesome. Everybody is exhausted, exhilirated, telling tall tales of epic adventures of snow-surfing down near-vertical faces of untracked mountains. In reality this means I successfully didn’t fall while warily traversing a ‘Blue Diamond’ labeled run…

People watching is always a thrill while partaking in adult libations at said lodge. Seriously, who can frown after a day on the mountain. Everybody looks shiny and beautiful and glowing from an inner knowledge that hanging out in nature and exercising ROCKS. Anyway, I’ll stop here before this becomes x-rated…

But of course, there is also the tales of the ‘infamous hottub party’ apres ski as well. You know, you see the picture all the time in rated R B-grade Hollywood movies that center around colleges and frathouses, etc. Well, it happens in the real world as well. With very similar results too- usually, or not… Again, I’m trying to keep this rated R so I stop here.

In conclusion,  the ‘big day’ is coming in a little over 48 hours.  Yes, I’m talking THE Mayan prophecy.  What does this mean, I ask myself. I’d like to think that the only thing erased from the face of this Planet Earth is my graduate student loan debt. Yea. I said it. I’m actually fantacizing about it.  Well, actually racists can disappear too. And gun-totting cray-crays. And shitty politicians. And shitty dictators. And all the fast food joints. And dis-ease. Blah blah blah. You get the picture.

Well, it’s not snowing at the moment.  All the rain has made for a slushy mush. Cold, wet slushy mush. You know what goes really well with cold, wet slushy mush? Peppermint Schnapps Hot Chocolate, that’s what.  Do I have any? No. You know what went well with snowfall last night? Tequila. That’s right folks, tequila. Just 1 shot mind you. Girlfriends, cats, tequila and snowfall. That was my quad-fecta last night. I just thought I’d mention that…

Twas the early morning twilight hours of... Thanksgiving

Bewitching Hour restlessness in the Fertile Crescent

It’s 5 A.M. and I’ve been up since 3:30 A.M. My mind can’t seem to stop working. Luckily it shut down for a good 5 hours earlier in the evening so tomorrow won’t be a total blur at work. I’m not sure what keeps me awake. Maybe it’s Thanksgiving tomorrow (today) and thoughts of being so far away from my favorite American holiday? I know not. Maybe it’s trying to sort through my life and my future plans? Prolly so.

It’s strange- being a world denizen. My connection to being grounded, and my past is most definitely Hawaii, but I make new connections as well. Every place I live and leave I have a connection with. Sometimes it gets confusing; Do I really miss living in Tunis, or do I just miss how strangely beautiful it was? Am I just being nostalgic about Istanbul, or is it really the most incredible city I have been to? Do I miss the wonders of the archaeological world, or am I just feeling blaise right now due to circumstances that are, obviously, out of my control at my current workplace?

..And now the 5:05 A.M. call to prayer… Funny, I have slept through it all week, and now I listen to the strangely hypnotic  melody. As I sit out on my lanai (terrace) and view Gaziantep in the darkness I look into myself. All these questions, but do I have answers? Do I need answers? Am I even seeking answers?

Back to the comfort of my bed, and my cozy Canadian Goose Down sleeping bag… My thoughts wander back to work; how can I feel satisfied that my students are merely satisfied with receiving a passing grade in class? How do I not let it bother me that they want to become English teachers, yet not fully understand modal verbs? How else can I convey to them that it will be their responsibility to explain modal verbs to their future students when they become teachers?

Since teaching in faculty I have realized that I like this style of teaching- lecturing on specific subject content. Do I want to return to grad school and complete a PhD? Am I experiencing PhD envy? Certainly living in Turkey and seeing the incredible events of some of the earliest beginnings of civilization has made my heart stir for archaeology again…

When I was in grad school in NYC I was  so happy to be going in a different direction w/TESOL, and I still am happy because of the anthropological connection that I feel to what I’m accomplishing in the present. But, something inside of me is stirring- rather quietly at the moment. It’s no secret that I miss the world of science.

This country is so amazing in that every step you take on this land, you can feel the history- even the prehistory if you are sensitive enough. What burnt me out with archaeology in Hawaii was the constant connect of the past to the needs of the present and future- developers. The mysteries unraveling from the earth were fantastic, but the constant pull of ethics weighed hard on me. As well, so did the extremely physical manual labor.

Now that I have stepped out of that arena, though, I look back into it. Those were my days of glory. The satisfaction of the physicalness of it was immense. More so than with the satisfaction of finishing a day of work at the university. But maybe I’m just romanticizing those moments with a, currently, selective memory…

Something happened to me in Cappadocia during the last Bayram. I saw this incredible landscape and along with this, I saw development. The connection is strong; when you see a beautiful place, you see tourism. With tourism you see development- increasing development. What I saw in Cappadocia, I experienced for over 20 years in Hawaii- development going out of control because of natural beauty and the inevitable ‘progress’ of civilization.

Last week while I was reading the local news from my Twitter feed, I saw 3 different articles on a major development issue in Cappadocia- Uçhisar to be exact. I don’t know enough about the community, but I know enough to know that it’s going to be a big, reoccurring problem for the community. The community is going to change- because it’s so beautiful of a natural wonder. It already has-drastically since my last visit 5 years ago. Even more so than my initial visit 11 years ago. If the community doesn’t rise up now and protest big development… well…I hope the community is up for an uphillbattle. They should have the power to change things if they unite.

From what I read, there are no archaeologists required on site during all aspects of construction- from the initial grubbing of the surface to mass sub-surface excavation with large machinery. It’s frightening to think what information is being lost. I would tell the local community there that they need to be citizen-policing the construction site. I would hope that at least the developer is a local person and/or entity so that the concerns of the community will weigh heavy in his/their hearts.

I haven’t a clue about historic preservation laws in Turkey, or the government’s desire and/or ability to keep large-scale development in check with the needs of the local population. I somehow have the idea that their stance is not as progressive as Hawaii’s though. I saw the same thing in Hawaii: corruption, finding loopholes in county, state and Federal laws and developers exploiting those loopholes, etc. I saw more than enough developments go through without the proper ‘chain of command’ being taken.

Anyway, this is on my mind at 6 A.M. I should be sleeping… My mind still wanders- to less complicated stuff though; Where should I go for my birthday? Am I going to Kabak for New Year’s? Should I buy a bread machine? Yes folks, this last one has been on my mind for a few weeks. So, Corporal Punishment has a bread machine, and she makes bread every week. Lately she hand-delivers to me freshly baked bread still warm from the oven… Not just any bread mind you, but hearty, healthy breads that are so delicious to eat that you don’t need to put anything on it. Anyway, I’m thinkng that a bread machine will improve my life! See, it really is the little things in life that matter…

I think I see the first light of dawn trying to crack through my silk curtains so I must end here and sleep for 1 more hour.

Happy Thanksgiving people! I’m eating turkey in Turkey tonight! Yes, my Turkish friends are having a Thanksgiving soiree for us vagabond expats. This is a wonderful thing that is what life is all about. Life is so precious- even when you are lost in confusion and thought. There is always something to be grateful about. I am so very grateful for my friends and family, and to know that I can feel at home wherever I am.

*kerplunk*

oh, Happy Thanksgiving today, or tomorrow- wherever you are!

some serious Jedi Mind Tricks going on down here in the Fertile Crescent tonight during the midnite hour...

Yea, subject line explains it pretty succinctly (haha).

It's the glorious end of a long, sometimes painful work week, but you know what, in the end it was great. I've come to some realizations. Most importantly that I'm not an army. Nor do I want to be an army- unless it's an army that only does battle with chocolate raspberry cake...

Anyhow... okay yes I continue on with this thought before I lose it once and for all. So, I think to myself, "just do it Holly. Just do it. Just re-adjust the kaleidoscope and let things fall into place as they tend to do if you just leave things alone and stay positive.  With this in mind, it was an awesome week and I learned a lot. To boot, the weather has been fabulous. I'm almost thinking I could get in some lanai sun-soaking tomorrow (this) morning. A morning that is fast descending upon me right now in fact.  I mustn't dawdle anymore. Let's get to the juice of this blog post- which wassssss....... I know I wanted to bring up Morocco- which came into my mind as I was ready to delve into my new research project. Shhhhh, but it's on a little-known (if any) archaeological site in the Cappadocia region. I'm not sure exactly as it might even be closer to Aksaray than Göreme. So this, of course, reminded me of Morocco 11 years ago...

I remember when I was on the ferry from Algeciras- at the tip of Spain and right next to Gibraltar. I had just started my journey a week before as I landed in Madrid. Hawaii to Madrid is a shock (although not as shocking as Hawaii to Antarctica I'm sure), and after a week I was freaking out and needed some open space- wanting to just have my mind blown. It was my first trip into Africa and it certainly set the pace for me- concerning the Maghreb countries anyway. The whole thing blew my mind.

My initial destination was Tangier- the main port city (I believe). I had no other plan beyond that. So on the ferry I decided I should meet up with some travelers. Immediately our motley crew was formed. Christian, the German med student/martial arts dude, was talking to ? from LA. She was moving to Fez to attend university and study Arabic language translation. Yo (real name) Kwan and I somehow drifted together and I believe we all met waiting for a taxi outside the port. So Yo Kwan's story: he was this Korean-American drag queen from.... Anyway somewhere in America. He was currently living in Paris studying to be a mime (I shit you not. S/he's prolly reading this right now in fact. I hope so!) We do correspond every once in a while. Prolly last time was finding each other on Facebook (haha what a cliche). Anyway, a fashion designer in London now I believe. Christian I sometimes Skype with. The last time must have been when I was living in Tunisia... I'm not sure. He is a (flying) doctor and was in east Africa for a few years out in the bush. He was headed back to Germany last I heard. Sometimes I see his Skype light on. I'm going to chat him up next light-up and see what he's been up to. LA girl I never heard from again. Never say never...

So we all made a plan (LA girl's plan actually so we all hitchhiked onto her plan): Hurrah, we're all going to Fez to see LA girl off to grad school. Since the port was far from the bus station we all shared the taxi and that is how HERstory is made...

The train was long and slow- just how I like it. There is so much to trip out on just sitting down and watching the scenery dance by. The different sounds, the passengers walking by. The weird scam artist dude that came into our little cabana thingy and was showing us pictures of da kine and asking us if we wanted to get off at Agadir instead and he could show us around.  He had the dark glasses on and everything- like a serious photo album.  Anyway, I immediately thought to myself undercover police trying to kidnap/ransom us. No, I didn't really think that, but it sounds good to read- doesn't it?

So, we avoided 'him' the rest of the journey. He must have found some other starry-eyed travelers to scam oregano on them.

We got to Fez and yep- my mind was blown. The central outside area of the Medina. The people walking, biking, crawling all over. The smoke from the meat cooking, the orange juice sellers. Oh my goodness- THE ORANGE JUICE SELLERS! Dream city.  We somehow managed to find our way through the haphazard kaos that was vibrant life teeming around us. It was so thick, the life, that it just dripped all over us.

We, I guess, were led into the Medina maze and found a hostel.

NOTE: break in story here. I really hope I'm not lazy and actually break from this typing and get my external hard drive and retreive the scans of those pictures and post them here.  Make sure to give me total hell if you don't see any pictures near the end of this- okay?

So this place was amazing (my budget was definitely NOT amazing). I remember in the taxi in Tangier we stopped at a bank on the road to get some cash from the ATM. Now I believe this was the first time that I relied on a bank card to get cash out of foreign countries (haha). I was thrilled that it actually worked. What liberation for a traveler let me tell you. MAJOR.

NOTE: Fireworks are going off right now. Typical Gaziantep evening. Random. (not sure why I said that)

So, We had a 3-bed dormroom. We relaxed. Showered. Oh, the shower. So this was the first, and only, time that I took a shower where the shower was also the place that you shit. So you make damn sure that both your feet have even displacement on the foot stands above the water line with the large hole in it below... Yoga came in REALLY handy for that one. Honestly, the only worse bathrooms that I have ever seen was in Marseilles- which is my favorite city in France. I just adore the grittiness of it.

But, as always, I digress. Back to Marrekesh. Oh wait, what happened to Fez. I didn't finish with Fez. We were there a few days and saw amazing shit, then went further south- down into the edge of the Sahara Desert. Christian had a hankering to get to Merzouga. I don't know what it's like now, but 11 years ago it blew my mind. Yes it's true. We did it up right. Saw a village wedding. Danced at a village wedding. Yo Kwan got to hang out with me in the girls area of the wedding. There was singing and dancing. No other foreigners. The medina was cool there. Going out at night and eating was mind-blowing. Going into the medina and buying kohl eyeliner with Yo Kwan was amazing. He bought this cool Tuareg Berber kaftan thing. It was royal blue with gold piping. It was regal.  We got hennaed. We got lost in the medina and had amazing adventures.

We went into the desert interior with the guys from the hostel we were staying at. There was this Lawrence of Arabia guy that was a flying doctor and was going into Algeria to do surgery for a few days. He took us around in his safari jeep and so was Lawrence. Everything from stopping at the wells at various areas in the road- which wasn't a road but open hardpan landscape. There was even a scorpion under a rock next to the ladel that was there always for weary travelers to wet their lips when they, inevitably, ran outta water... And then the 5 star hotel he took us to and we drank really expensive beers- that he bought. He was ready for an audience and we were captive listeners. He gladly bought our rounds. Then there was the trek into the desert for the moonrise. I'm talking camels and all. We walked and I remember bartering my Swatch Watch for some cool fabric from our new Berber friends.

So... after all the fun. One morning I woke up to screams. Ali came running to my door shouting that New York City was on fire. Yes folks, here is where this story takes a turn. I was on the Algerian/Moroccan border camping out underneath the stars at some Tuareg Berber stronghold at the edge of the desert when 911 happened.

Anyway, all surreal. I'm still here to type about it. Let's continue on to Marrekesh. Honestly, Marrekesh was last on my list of places that I liked in Morocco, but what does that really mean? I loved every minute of it.

NOTE: just had a balcony break. Gaziantep sleeps and I'm observing. The new age-y minarets in the distance that have their neon green lights banded around them- well the lights are off, but I always love it when the lights are on. It looks so space-agey.  But it was a good break because I remember the reason for this blog. There is this little shop deep in the Çarşı downtown G-tep, and they sell clove cigarettes- real clove cigarettes. Apparently, as the story goes, there is this little old man in an otherwise empty store. He is sitting on a stool. When my friend inquired about where this place is that sells the cloves, he said, "right here" and lifted up the fabric and underneath the stool was 1 box of cigarettes. You couldn't buy just a pack. You had to buy the entire 10-pack. So my friend did. Anyway, I don't really ever smoke cloves, but I remember I did when I was traveling through Morocco. So that is the mystery folks. Solved.

Back to Morocco... I think I'm done here actually.

I did check the hard drive, and couldn't find the pictures, BUT I will leave you with some random photos from a series that is 'ARCHAEOLOGY CHICKS THAT ROCK" (I just made that up actually). This also has a subcategory of our fans (actually just friends outside the profession that somehow enjoyed our company). I realize that is a stretch to think we were some kinda wild women (wink), but look at the facts people: we lived the man's world. We rocked the construction sites. It was like being inside a commnando game and we were the mistresses of corporal punishment. Total Swiss Family Robinson syndrome. This includes all ex-boyfriends and other highlights that are now family and have to love me even though I post weird stories about them, Simone... But anyway... enjoy

Me. One of the The 'Archaeology Chicks That Rock'--ed it a little bit too hard the previous evening- New Year's Eve- sometime about 5 years ago. Katie-girl (archaeology chick that rocks) and Lindsay (non-archaeologist chick that rocks it as a nurse) and I went backside Hana to Piero's place. We had so much fun (well I passed out at 11:45pm...) and woke up the next morning in sleeping bags outside of his house, nearly on the street (of course it is backside Maui so no traffic and total country...

Rochelle le Belle and Lil'D: both archaeology chicks that rock. We rocked it a lot at their south side pad up in Maui Meadows. Miss dem gargoyles long time.

going holoholo westside with katie-girl (same archaeology chick that rocks) and our 'hangers-on" (haha). We were headed to Honokohau Beach and somehow stopped at a house our friend was working construction on and totally scarfed up all their luscious mangoes! Heh heh. Resourceful we are.

Lady-Di, moi, and Katie-girl (all archaeology chicks that rock). Katie wasn't it that weird dude that all got us those baseball caps for Christmas? Lady-Di is since married and with child so congrats to you my dear! Katie-girl is soon on her way down that road. And then there's me...     Bye. Oh, apologize in advance for the absence of my senior editor-at-large. He is largely missing... Kolohe Kitty Kat RIP you sweet thing. Best kitty kat evah!