shenanigans here in the kingdom of Bahrain

Sitting in bed with my requisite cuppa joe and 2 kittens (Mischief & Mischiefess) with a new addition: the air con is ON!  Yep, it's that time folks.  I held it off as long as I could...

I'm reflecting on my time in Bahrain.  I'm well into my 7th month here and it feels... well it feels kinda cozy.  I was with the Fulbrighters early in the week at a gala event that the US Ambassador put on here- that would be the 4th of July par-tee that happens every April- and we were discussing getting ready to leave. It felt odd because I'm not leaving... But I've spent enough time living in countries and leaving, and remember that feeling- that a chapter is coming to an end.  What have I still not accomplished?  Where did all the time go? Why did I not meet a Mr. Right, and only Mr. Wrong's, or perhaps more aptly, Mr. Right Nows ;)

But seriously, it feels good to stay put for some more time.  I started to think how they will unload all their possessions- likely at my place for storage until the next set of Fulbrighter's appear in September! I remember back to Gaziantep last May and my unloading of 2 years of collecting.  It was so much fun actually as I had a moving party complete with adult beverages and peeps just came over and walked away with my pre-loved stuff.  I didn't even try to sell anything.  I just wanted to give it all away- the blender, the rug, the plants, the psychedelic lights (I hope you are enjoying those Farahnaz ;), and just all the other cool stuff that I had amassed.  It is nice to know they are amongst good friends and people who need things.

Now I remember the trips I made with Ahmed, Farahnaz, Selin and Marc to the Syrian refugee camps. I had loads of clothing to donate on a couple occasions- the last one in May I believe, after I had already been informed that I was a Fellow recipient in Bahrain.  I thought to myself, "what will I do with all these winter clothes? "  BAM! Pack up a small bag of the goodies, and donate the rest to Ahmed's family and friends in the camps near Gaziantep. I remember being amazed at the sight of rocking up in the car to the various camps- some tent camps and some container camps.  One was just opening that week- a camp of 10,000 containers that can hold 100,000 people.  It seemed so inconceivable to me that you just pick up from your civil war-torn country and, are lucky enough, to make it across the border and re-structure your life. These people are a stone's throw from their country and cannot do a thing.  They await news each day from back home.

These  moments that I spent soaking in what I was seeing, they have changed me. Even as I type, my eyes tear up. Why? Because I've somehow forgotten these feelings until now as I relive them. As always though, there is always a context for helping people in need.  Sure enough, I opened my email this morning and in my inbox was an email from a friend who is hosting Easter dinner Sunday evening.  We are all cooking different dishes (I'm bringing Nachos and tequila ;)  She belongs to a local women's group here on isle and they are accepting donations for the women's prison here in Bahrain. It's not a big prison of course as it's a small island with a small population, but it is full of, mostly, runaway maids trying to escape abusive employers, etc. They cannot get back to their own countries and life looks pretty bleak for them at this point- regardless if they broke the laws or not. So the women need international calling cards and underwear mostly. 

This brings me to another story (I know, I'm all over the place this morning with this post).  Last night I was heading out to a swank diplomatic party with a friend and my GPS always screws up in this one spot on isle in downtown Manama.  It always takes me near Pearl Roundabout- which has been closed for about 3 years now... ahem. Anyway, it re-routed me through the Pakistani/Indian immigrant hoods and to the guts of the souk. The hood was so interesting to soak in the sights: men everywhere pouring out onto the streets.  All these guys are working here for MINIMAL wages and Thursday evening is the night to chill in their hood since Friday is their only day off.  The men were all looking into my car as if they had not seen women before. They leave their families back home and come here to work their asses off to send their meager wages back home and subsist on what little is left over.  Many do not see their wives and children for YEARS.  From time to time I talk to a few and ask them, "Is it worth it?" And the answer is always an overwhelming YES.  I think to myself, 'Wow, this is not how it's supposed to be.  How is it that you have a family and can't be with your family?"  I have no answers, but I am humbled and grateful for all that I have, and don't have, but because I am a US citizen I am... I don't even know what the word is, or maybe I don't want to pen it...

Oh, by the way, the birthday soiree (Tony Stark of the Middle East) was a smashing success.  The highlight was the shwarma station in the backyard of the dude's villa- which was HUGE.  That got me and my party friends thinking as well. The villa was huge, and swank, but not really a 'home-y' feeling, in terms of what I (we) considered home-y to be back home (NYC, Phily & Hawaii we represent). There is this feeling of artifice here.  Things are outrageous, sure.  But that doesn't necessarily do it for me. I guess just the term 'compound' has some weird connotations for me.  I mean, they are reinforced, walled living sites, complete with guard shacks and different levels of security upon entering.  It's weird to think you're 'inside the compound.' I also think back to the Syrian refugee camps as they are in their compounds, but to keep them in, and outside of the local communities.  Same difference? Different passport. Different socio-economic status. Different as night and day.

As I backtrack in thought to the camps, we all noticed (hard not to) the barreled barb wire surrounding the walls of the camps.  I asked someone if it was to keep people in.  I got an answer that it is also to keep people out.  This, of course, gets into politics- in this context concerning Turkey and Syria and their governments being at odds with one another (this is an absolutely white-washed way of coining this, but I just can't get into it now). I guess I'll just end here on this.  I'm affected- that is all I want to say.  I have ideas. I have opinions. I have prejudices. I have compassion. I have doubts. You get the picture.  It's an emotional pot of stew brewing continuously and episodes of spillover in between some relative calm (relative).

Okay, I'm pulling it together to get out of bed.  It's close to 10am and I need to get my day on.  The party, oh yes the party... Well, there were 2 parties: first one being cocktails and pupus at the pool bar at the Intercontinental for the US Embassy's "Bahrain-America Friendship Week." This was the primer.  This was actually the reward for my Matilda (my GPS) taking me through the NARROW alleys of the Manama Souk where I don't know how I actually managed a 3 kilometer stretch of men swarming, cars double-parked, sometimes 2-way traffic down what seems impossible for even a 1-way traffic situation, bicycles, women running in/out of shops with their long, black abayas flowing, etc. Somehow the chaos works though. It did not seem abnormal for anyone else.  Whereas my ass (in a sweet Dolce and Gabbana LBD number) was gripping the seat, and it was tense, but with broken moments of outright laughter too. We took ourselves so seriously for the first kilometer, and by the last, I was indeed happy to see the InterCon, but decided that THAT experience was one of my highlights here in the Kingdom.

Party #2- Once again, Matilda was fussing about logistics of Roads, Blocks, Villa #s, etc.  We had a mini caravan on tour.  We eventually found our way inside Citadel Compound a narrow street with cars all piled up in the near distance. Right away this girl is thinking ahead to trying to pull out of this hot mess in the wee hours after partaking in adult libations so... As always, I parked far enough way to be able to make a 5-point turn outta there no problem. Not that THAT helped us in locating my car upon departing the soiree.  Just a minor detail though...

...And the party. Earlier in the day I anticipated sussing out a place in the yard to pass out until the early morning hours, but this recourse was in fact not needed.  We came home at a fairly respectable hour... fairly. Upon various reconnaissance surveys of Tony Stark's residence, there was not a corner in the party area that was not covered with adult beverages.  I mean, whatever you wanted, it was there.  Music was evolving. Crowd was cutting loose. Disco ball was spinning. A good time was had by all.  There were some other highlight, but best I keep my lips sealed...

Unfortunately I did not take any pictures, but my comrades did.  Perhaps I'll include them later when I get them.  We were looking hot after all.  Everybody was looking hot- in an environment-specific way (I'll keep it at that as well).

So, that's all I've got.  I think I've confused you all enough with my 'writing off the top of my head' style of entertainment... Oh yea, Ima going to pull the hungover card and not edit this so... there's that

Bahrain- herstory of a community: A`ali

Post-run euphoria.  Every day that I run is a good day.  I mean a really good day.  I can't express enough how much I really appreciate the community running track here in A`ali.  I feel so fortunate to be a part of this community.  I guess I am what is called a 'fringe-dweller' here in that... well, I'm just about the only American that lives in this hood it seems!

A`ali is just a typical neighborhood on island.  I guess most expats are lured into living downtown Manama where the city life is in full swing- as well as traffic jams.  Me, I've always liked living just off the beaten path.  Most locals are a bit... shocked (I guess is a good word to use,)when I tell them I live in A`ali.  Let's just keep it at that, but when I explain what I love about this area, they seem to get it. I'm not exactly deep in the hood here, but it is unique enough, and I do somewhat feel a part of the community.

It feels good to go to the local Lulu Hypermarket and that the meats section guys know me.  They always give me tips now on what is the best seller of the day at the Indian food counter, etc. It feels good to go to the produce section and talk story with the girls that weigh/tag my produce.  We talk about all sorts of things from how crazy it is to pay so much money for avocados, coconuts and bananas when they fall off trees practically in Hawaii, and the Philippines (where the 2 main girls are from).  They laugh and their eyes get so wide when I cry out that 4 BD is too much money to pay for 3 avocados. I've finally convinced them to stop calling me 'ma`am.'

 It feels good that the Lulu check-out people all know me and know that I always have my own shopper recycle bags that I carry with me. Whenever there is a new bagger guy and they instinctively reach for the plastic, the checker always says to them, 'oh no she has her own bags.' I always proudly announce at that point that in Hawaii plastic bags are banned EVERYWHERE.  This seems to be met with shock from everybody.  Seems a shame actually.  Now the bagger guys know me enough to stop going to get a cart for me so as to carry my groceries out to my car in.  They are still amazed that a women will just up and carry 3 heavy bags.

The gym I go to, at Al Areen, has a community spirit as well.  I've got my own little set-up going there- which is easy to do because not many people are ever there when I'm there.  When I step through the doors, the front desk girls always know to turn on the sauna and steam rooms so they will be hot in 1 hours time.  The fitness guy, Mort, is usually roaming around the building offering me tips.  Most times he has a client and so we all chat together intermittently on fitness elements.  They talk about wishing to do yoga and I comment on wanting more free weight work. It is always a pleasant exchange. The place is pretty big and I always have the entire upstairs room to myself  to do my yoga routine.  As well, the area is a great place to run.  There is no crazy traffic nearby.  There is a bit of construction work going on, but my main concern is cars.  Imma just say it and get it over with: most people don't have good driving habits here... There, done. Next...

The highlight, the real highlight though of my existence here in Bahrain is the A`ali Walking Track in my hood.  I simply adore this place.  This is community.  This is the heart of the matter! I still have yet to have a conversation with anyone there, mostly due to me running when I'm there.  I suspect it has a lot to do with just me being different perhaps.  I just mean to say that there are some cultural norms here and that I have to accept those.  This is, of course, a generalization and there are stories within stories- as with everything.

What makes me feel so good though is that everybody is there just doing their thing.  Everybody is there for their health.  Some families bring their children and walk with them, or roller-blade, etc. Most are holding their cell phones, or talking on them.  There are quite a few groups of men or women walking together.  There are always people in the center on the monkey bars and doing calisthenics.  I have to admit, though, that I am the only person doing yoga there.  I always try to find a tree or somewhere out of the way to do so as I don't really wish to stick out so much.  

I have 2 favorite restaurants thus far: Ric's Kountry Kitchen (diner in Juffair) and Pan Asia in Adliya.  I really don't go out to eat much so I know there is much to explore in this area.  If I could afford sushi, I would frequent those spots but as it is I'm here on a grant and there is not much money left over to enjoy the high life. I have my occasional splurges but I generally cook at home.  As well, most the food I buy is organic, and that is a pretty penny to spend here, as elsewhere in the world.  It's shocking what I pay for yogurt with live acidophilus cultures. There are organic stores on island, but you are definitely paying for it.  My favorite, Nature Valley, is next to Xerox downtown.  The first Saturday of the month the man gives a 10% discount on food so I always show up at that time so I can buy my Ezekiel seed bread and black licorice, etc. I'm almost embarrassed to say it but 3 loaves of the Ezekiel bread is 15BD (40 US$). Now, that would cost $24 back home in Hawaii but still... Ugh. It hurts being a conscious eater... Hurts so good I suppose :)

My wish list? Okay, here goes: I would like to find a beach community here!  I desperately need to get hooked up with this.  I mean, what's an island girl to do? This is a pickle: living on an island that has (nearly) no beaches... So, if anyone has any ideas on how to deal with this, please do divulge!  There is this resort I want to check out, but it comes with a price- as does all the other 'beaches.' Alas...

More wishes: more volunteering on archaeology digs here. Bahrain's history, or prehistory, when it was known as Dilmun, is just fascinating.  I've actually met quite a few old timers with stories to tell.  This is magical as these meetings are quite random.  I had 2 such last month at the monthly Bab al Bahrain festivities.  My new incense seller guy just happened to have a picture in his phone of his father posing with a Danish archaeologist in the 1950's. It was incredible.  I showed him the pictures in my phone of the site I volunteered at this past season, the A`ali Royal Burial Mounds.  It was an incredible moment for both of us- 2 complete strangers, yet linked.  I love this.  Earlier in that evening, at another shop, another old timer was talking to me and he mentioned that every day there is an old man that comes to the coffee shop directly across from his shop and he is a historian.  And then my incense guy separately told me the same thing not 1 hour later!  So, back I go to Bab al Bahrain this Saturday evening for my MEPI coffeetalk (this week we are discussing Bahrain history) where we and indulge in local legends and oral histories.  I must say that I do really enjoy this place!

To sum up, life is good.  I'm happy, healthy and moving forward in life all the while looking back to the past.  Last but not least, if any Bahraini's know of a good tailor, I'm looking to get some things made. Drop me a note if you can.

eye-spy

Today is Al Hijra New Year - 1435

This means that today, November 4 of the Gregorian calendar year, marks the beginning of a new Islamic calendar year. As tradition goes, The first Islamic yearwas in 610 AD during, when Mohammad left Mecca for Medina (the Hijira). The exact day is determined by the sighting of the new moon.

What does that translate as for me?  A hollyday!!! And this means another trek to some interesting historical place on the island(s).  Where shall I visit today? I've been in eye-spy mode lately and have been making a point to travel to a historic area every week here on my host island nation. 

Before all that though, I still need to just wake up.  I'm lazing on my couch drinking a fresh brew.  Because of my aversion to writing down important upcoming events on my iCal, I have a lot stored inside my cranium.  It all seeps out during the strangest moments.  I suddenly realize that I need to document all this as there is little hard drive space left upstairs and suddenly some important events will be over-written. In an effort to collect my marbles, I will share with you all this information.  As well, I will probably write it all down on iCal...

Tomorrow marks an important day as it's the first day that I'll be visiting one of the local schools that participate in the local English Access Micro-scholarship Program. My RELO will be there as well as a Fulbright TA.  It should be loads of good fun.  I think I'll do an activity based on the popular 'survivor-style' shows from the past...

Next up is travel to Morocco for a conference with MATE (Moroccan Association of Teachers of English).  I have been funded to give a presentation.  Now, to formulate the presentation... This takes time.  Time, in fact, that I should devote the day to.  *Scratches out schedule to visit historical landmark today and, instead, sit home on my Mac Book Pro and brainstorm*

Okay, now that I have THAT taken care of... Ugh.  It IS the right thing to do *feeling sorry for myself*  Next up is the local Bahrain TESOL Conference that I will be presenting at also.  Now, that is 2 presentations I need to draft up... Oh wait, there is also TESOL Arabia where I will likely present as well... Oh geeze... 

The great thing about this conference in Tangier is that is can be like a mini-vacation as well.  Of course I have to fund that part myself... That's alright though as I have a handful of friends that live in Morocco so I'll be knocking at their doorsteps soon. Another benefit is that it begins January 1, 2014 so that means... New Year's Eve in Morocco and/or Spain!!! This, of course, pleases me.

It's been about 12 years since I traveled through Morocco.  I visited some amazing places there and am looking forward to returning to the region.  I only briefly traveled through Tangier so this is a plus.  Nothing like a gritty port city to inspire one!  I recall reading Coco Chanel's biography and she mentioned hanging out at Yves Saint Laurent's 'Villa Mabrouka ' in Tangier. Lavish, lascivious, opulence, decadence; these are all adjectives that describe that storyline... and I hung onto every tantalizing word.

Fresh from Morocco puts me back in the pearl of the Middle East (here in Bahrain) nearing the end of the semester, which puts me in position to get outta town soon after and head to Turkey over the break.  I do miss Istanbul.  As well, I need a dose of wintertime.  I still have to run the air con some days here.  I want some cold, wet rain and snow. Lucky I still have my winter things packed away in various locations throughout Turkey...

Now I'm really beginning to feel the pressure of all that I have to do today...  As well, I'm waiting on some possible rainfall here today.  Last night it was clouding up and the radio guy said there was a possible chance of light showers... This was after I headed to Ric's Kountry Kitchen (diner) and had myself a bacon-cheeseburger and french fries while grading student assignments.  So a full belly of delightful American comfort food plus the possibility of rain sent me on my way home with pleasant thoughts.  I did end up topping off the evening with a corona or two which, apparently washed away the possibility of rain *opens up front door and peeks outside only to squint from the intense sunshine at 9am*

Alas...

I leave you with some pictures of my last few traipsings to a few of the forts in Bahrain: Qal`at Bahrain and Qal`at Riffa.  Enjoy

Danish archeologists were giving a lecture here this day concerning the ongoing archaeological investigations at the Royal Burial Mounds at A`ali.

the entrance

land reclamation in progress...

the museum from the fort

Downtown Manama looming in the background

sun setting over the fort = brilliance

looks impenetrable

the hood behind the fort.  I saw a lot of people coming from the hood and running around the fort.  What a great running route!

shadowplay

desert skyscrapers

past archaeological investigations at the foot of the fort

the setting sun behind me cast a brilliant light play towards Manana

having a spiritual moment

in through the out door

Now I'm at the Riffa Fort, near my hood.

Looking down onto Hunanaiya Valley

East Riffa town

the 'burbs