Showing posts with label Tunis. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tunis. Show all posts

2.09.2024

Smells like Jasmine

 

 

 

Each new year since 2010 (yes, this is still 'THE new year) my instinctual internal alarm clock sounds off. There's no way to snooze this alarm.  It is part of me. It IS me. It is a rite of passage marking my transformation into... I don't exactly know. What I do know is that I somehow treat it as a privilege; something I am honored to have been privy to. Some sort of secret society that myself and a few others were inducted into. 

I've written about the events of the Arab Spring throughout the years. I found this text in my files that I am apt to so cleverly code-name as a rule. So clever that I can't find them anymore. As well, I need to fire up the old much-neglected Mac Book Air to conduct my investigations. Most the evidence I uncover has nothing to do with my intentions; food scraps in between the keyboard, old post-its still adhered to with my most important passwords of yore, old photos that I never see since the mysterious 'Cloud' has stopped uploading photos to currently running devices...

This text is from years back; a submission to the Hawaii chapter of the Teaching English as a Second Language (HI TESOL) organization.  I need it to submit a writing sample for another organization, so I figured it's a fitting time to repost it anyway since 'we' (those of us in this secret society) just rang in our 13th anniversary... Enjoy

Is That Jasmine I Smell in My Revolution: Thoughts on Teaching in Tunisia during the Arab Spring

 

Setting the Scene

 

The following is a commentary about my experiences teaching English at Amideast during the events of the ‘Jasmine Revolution’ as it has been coined. Tunisia is a small unassuming country bordered by Algeria to the west and Libya to the east in a region called the Maghreb. The Sahara Desert is south and the Mediterranean Sea greets its northern border. Tunisia’s history extends back in time encompassing many waves of inhabitants dating back to the original desert Berber populations to the seafaring Phoenicians ruling the coastal regions over 3000 years ago. Also passing through for a minute were Romans, Ottomans, and, until more recently, French colonial rule.

 

It was December, 2009 and I was fresh from graduate school and eager to start teaching English abroad. My previous, and quite successful, career had been as an archaeologist and cultural anthropologist here in the Hawaiian Islands for the past fifteen years. I felt that these two disciplines would complement each other and give me a well-rounded career bath where my background would give me a slight edge concerning my deficiency in actual teaching experience. Before I started the master’s program at The New School in New York City, I had never been inside an ESL classroom before.

 

Fast forward to Tunis. Arriving mid-summer in 2010 during Ramadan, the Islamic month of fasting, the die was cast: A new chapter of my life was starting with, “Once upon a time in a far-away land…” I had already experienced Ramadan observances while temporarily living in Istanbul a few years earlier, so I knew to be respectful and refrain from drinking and eating in public and at school in front of my students. It’s the “when in Rome” concept that has everything to do with cultural sensitivity.

 

 

I had been teaching in Tunis for four months before this complete upheaval, that would eventually become permanently tattooed in my memory that I continue to wear as a badge of honor of sorts, unfolded. I had just begun to get into a steady rhythm of life in this north African city: my students were enthusiastic learners, I met friends, I learned basic Arabic words to get by, etc. During this time, I also discovered a new passion: I roamed the backstreets of the neighborhoods each weekend before meandering through the narrow passages of the souk and getting lost.

 

 

Talk Story; in What Language?

 

Tunisians are natural language learners. They are both diglossic and bilingual language speakers. The Tunisian Arabic dialect has no written system, yet they have a standardized written language. As a former French protectorate, education was heavily influenced by the French educational system, and Tunisians learn French early on in their schooling. French is the ‘official’ language of Tunisia, resulting in code-switching in contextual usage. Add another language, like English, and rise to the super-status of polyglot-ism. (Is that even a word?)

 

Inside the Classroom

 

I recall my academic director explaining to me that Tunisian students expected their instructors to know all the answers to their questions, so if a student were to ask me a question, and I couldn’t answer it, instead of saying, “Okay, let me get back to you on that after break,” I was supposed to run out of the class and race to the teacher’s room and ask around in there for the answer or go online to get the answer and then return to class… As a new instructor, this made me quite nervous. But again, when in Rome…

 

And So the Revolution Begins

 

At the start, that first day, the air inside the classroom was suddenly different. I would look up at my students before class while I was writing on the whiteboard and they would be talking, as usual, but more uncomfortably. They were shifting their eyes, quietly, and whispering in Arabic- not English or French. The next day, I directed my attention to them and said, “I know what you are talking about, but I don’t know what you are saying.” Because of the advanced stage of protesting going on, there was no way to avoid the topic, so I decided to tackle it directly. This was in my Level Four class where students were younger, and Ben Ali, the country’s president, had been in power longer than they had been alive.  

 

In the ensuing days, class dynamics changed. What was most interesting to me was observing my students becoming their most fluent selves when discussing their opinions on what we were experiencing in daily life now. They excitedly debated with each other over their opinions, possibilities of freedom, new daily events, etc.

 

“Teacher, we have been silent for so long.”

Teacher, we have never been able to watch YouTube without using a proxy until now.”

 

Class Dismissed

 

Little did I know this class was to be my last class become Amideast closed down until further notice. The unrest and violence had finally arrived to Tunis from down in the south, in Sidi Bouzid, where it started. What was to follow was two of the most frightening days I have ever experienced.  Tunis was shut down to the point where the main event of the day could be waiting in a bread line in the morning for two hours and hurry back home before curfew started up again. Constant shouting, helicopters circling, and gunfire dominated the darkness along with the wafting smell of tear gas.

 

During these days, there wasn’t much for us teachers to do; we all kept in touch via social media and met up for coffee after the morning food runs and before curfew fell again. Many of my students were calling, checking up on me, and asking if I needed anything.

 

Wrapping up the Revolution

 

In the end, I had to make the decision to leave Tunisia as it had been almost a month since the school closed down and the dictator, Ben Ali, had fled the country, but the city was still a disaster and protesting continued.

 

I am now back on Maui working, but have accepted a position teaching English at a university in southeastern Turkey. I can be reached at hjform@gmail.com or you can follow my blog which relays my experiences living abroad and teaching.  In fact, you should follow my blog as I haven’t even delved into being out on the streets in Tunis that fateful day, January 10, 2011, when I was with my friend, another instructor at Amideast, and he got shot… And then the dash to the hospital… And then the ensuing days of intense action on the streets… And then…


1.14.2015

Tunisian Soulfood, and other revolutionary thoughts...





So much is on my mind: packing for Turkey, conferences in Turkey, PowerPoints to make for conferences in Turkey, getting my last day of work out of the way tomorrow and final grades confirmed and entered for the semester, etc.  There is so much to do yet I sit quietly in the dark next to the space heater (yes, it is freezing cold here in the Middle East) thinking about Tunisia.  Thinking about 4 years ago yesterday and today when a revolution not only swept a country, but swept through my being and consumed me.

I am thinking about my friends who experienced this event with me.  I am thinking about all the people I don't even know that witnessed this event.  I'm thinking about all the martyrs. I'm thinking about the New Tunisia of today.  The Tunisia that struggles to make something from all this.  It wasn't for nothing.  It doesn't guarantee something. Everyone is hopeful. Everyone is watching. Everyone is waiting. To see.

I am thinking about Ben Ali, the deposed dictator. Is he still in Saudi?  Is he living a life of luxury in exile?  I am thinking of all the people in the hospital that I stared blankly at while waiting for my friend solo_ojo to come out of surgery after taking a bullet for Tunisia.  I was roaming the halls of the hospital with Cyrus the Virus. I was carrying a box containing a bloody belt, a bloody pair of shoes, and a camera full of the day's fury. I couldn't understand anybody.  I was in a tunnel.  We all looked the same, grief-stricken. We were all freaked out, I'm sure.

Occasionally I would allow myself to look at the contents of the box.  I would not allow myself to cry- not yet.  It wasn't time.  Something kicked into motion inside of me.  Something I had no control over.  Something I'm sure that was a result of my father's influence on me.  My phone kept ringing.  It seemed a bother to answer.  It seemed a heavy task to accomplish.

I felt so alone, even though I wasn't.  I was surrounded by love. I was surrounded by passion. I was surrounded by revolution so fresh it was dripping crimson blood. Blood. I had it. I had it in me and on me.  I remember looking down at my running shoes.  My beloved gray New Balance running shoes, covered in blood. They weren't earlier in the afternoon...

There was a certain beauty to that murky afternoon. At this point in history, I realize I'm already starting to forget things- for whatever reason.  For whatever reason I don't want to forget anything.  I want to remember everything as it was, as it still is.  I realize I will continue to write about this because it's just so overwhelming- still. I want to feel every emotion I experienced then.  I want to remember that smell of tear gas.  I want to visualize over and over again all that I took in on that day, those days.

I thought about that day most of the day today.  I had an awfully busy day today. When the events of today were past me and I got home and turned on my computer, I opened FaceBook. I saw that many of 'us' were posting about THAT DAY, those days. It's not just me.  We are all doing it.  We are all honoring those memories of THAT DAY.  There's a comfort to that that is indescribable. I'm not sure why.

In the ensuing days there was so much tension.  There was so much laughter.  There was so much wonder. There was so much coffee and cigarettes... There was alcohol.  There was shisha. There were many late nights, watching movies.  I remember vividly staring down my window at the ground and seeing an army guy hiding beneath a palm tree. Maybe he wasn't hiding. I don't know. All the lights were out in my apartment and a few of us were watching a movie.  I remember thinking that the light from my little computer seemed so bright and that maybe it shouldn't be. 

I remember finally being able to come back into my neighborhood a few days later.  Everything felt different. Suddenly life was a slow-moving picture show in black and white.  Soon our neighborhood gang found out that solo_ojo had been shot.  Soon people started coming over to check up on him, on us. The rotisserie chicken guy came and brought us chicken.  It was our favorite.  We ate at that chicken joint 3 times a week- easy. Damn the way those chickens were stuffed full of Rosemary goodness...

Slowly life turned a new leaf.  We all came together to talk. To smoke. To drink. To share. To find moments of laughter. To be somber together. These days had an impact.  I might forget for long periods of time, but I can return at any time. I think this is what 'soulfood' is. Yes.

I'm stuffed on soulfood tonight. I think we all are. 

1.14.2013

Happy Anniversary Jasmine...

Today marks 2 years since Tunisians came together and revolted against their then dictator, Ben Ali. I feel fortunate to have witnessed it while living downtown in the Lafayette neighborhood.  I feel fortunate because of what I saw. Because of what I felt. Because of what took place. Because history was being re-written.  I don't know how I feel about it today, as Tunisia is still recovering, and it is not clear at all if liberties are being granted, or continue to be taken away with the new (provisional) government.

But back to those moments. I was so proud of my Tunisian friends, colleagues and students. They stood in the wake of danger daring to defy the iron-fist management of the country by Ben Ali and his thugs cabinet members... My friends were so proud of have brought down an oppressive regime. The courage and energy that radiated from them was infectious. There were so many reasons to celebrate. That was then. What is happening now?

Things are not okay in Tunisia. Rights are being taken away still. Disinformation continues to exist. Corruption. Joblessness still rules. Freedoms that existed before Jasmine are threatened today. Take the government's plan to forbid public displays of affection I'm not talking about acts of lewd sexual behavior. I'm talking kissing/hugging in public... Take also the government's comments about what 'art' is supposed to be at a recent art exhibit in La Marsa where some political works of art were on display & the local Salafis didn't take kindly to & decided to violate the art space to show their dissatisfaction.  Take the (apparent) Salafi attack & subsequent destruction of a mausoleum of a 13th century Sufi saint in the beautiful Mediterranean town of Sidi Bou Said last weekend. Take the government's non-committal action for it all... blah blah blah...

So much beauty I discovered while living in Tunisia. I was so broke living there, and I still was able to see/feel such beauty. I didn't need much living there. I was happy. I had a beautiful old apartment on Rue D'Egypte. I could walk to work and all around downtown. I had lovely friends. We had sweet, cheap watering holes we used to frequent complete with lively conversations.  I could continue on. But there is no need. You all get the picture.

Many of us have moved on since Jasmine. Quite a few remain. I am almost envious. Those who remain get the real picture. They are a part of the solution- a solution that is taking a back seat to a status-quo corruption that cannot be chased away so easily as Ben Ali was... They need all their strength.

My time there was short. My abundance of love for Tunisia is endless. I briefly returned in 2011. Walking the streets. Taking in the smells. Seeing old friends. Eating my favorite foods. All of it felt like a homecoming of sorts. A homecoming that was really without ever having really settled into a home. That's how special Tunis is to me.

I will return again someday.

11.23.2012

Twas the early morning twilight hours of... Thanksgiving





Bewitching Hour restlessness in the Fertile Crescent

It’s 5 A.M. and I’ve been up since 3:30 A.M. My mind can’t seem to stop working. Luckily it shut down for a good 5 hours earlier in the evening so tomorrow won’t be a total blur at work. I’m not sure what keeps me awake. Maybe it’s Thanksgiving tomorrow (today) and thoughts of being so far away from my favorite American holiday? I know not. Maybe it’s trying to sort through my life and my future plans? Prolly so.

It’s strange- being a world denizen. My connection to being grounded, and my past is most definitely Hawaii, but I make new connections as well. Every place I live and leave I have a connection with. Sometimes it gets confusing; Do I really miss living in Tunis, or do I just miss how strangely beautiful it was? Am I just being nostalgic about Istanbul, or is it really the most incredible city I have been to? Do I miss the wonders of the archaeological world, or am I just feeling blaise right now due to circumstances that are, obviously, out of my control at my current workplace?

..And now the 5:05 A.M. call to prayer… Funny, I have slept through it all week, and now I listen to the strangely hypnotic  melody. As I sit out on my lanai (terrace) and view Gaziantep in the darkness I look into myself. All these questions, but do I have answers? Do I need answers? Am I even seeking answers?

Back to the comfort of my bed, and my cozy Canadian Goose Down sleeping bag… My thoughts wander back to work; how can I feel satisfied that my students are merely satisfied with receiving a passing grade in class? How do I not let it bother me that they want to become English teachers, yet not fully understand modal verbs? How else can I convey to them that it will be their responsibility to explain modal verbs to their future students when they become teachers?

Since teaching in faculty I have realized that I like this style of teaching- lecturing on specific subject content. Do I want to return to grad school and complete a PhD? Am I experiencing PhD envy? Certainly living in Turkey and seeing the incredible events of some of the earliest beginnings of civilization has made my heart stir for archaeology again…

When I was in grad school in NYC I was  so happy to be going in a different direction w/TESOL, and I still am happy because of the anthropological connection that I feel to what I’m accomplishing in the present. But, something inside of me is stirring- rather quietly at the moment. It’s no secret that I miss the world of science.

This country is so amazing in that every step you take on this land, you can feel the history- even the prehistory if you are sensitive enough. What burnt me out with archaeology in Hawaii was the constant connect of the past to the needs of the present and future- developers. The mysteries unraveling from the earth were fantastic, but the constant pull of ethics weighed hard on me. As well, so did the extremely physical manual labor.

Now that I have stepped out of that arena, though, I look back into it. Those were my days of glory. The satisfaction of the physicalness of it was immense. More so than with the satisfaction of finishing a day of work at the university. But maybe I’m just romanticizing those moments with a, currently, selective memory…

Something happened to me in Cappadocia during the last Bayram. I saw this incredible landscape and along with this, I saw development. The connection is strong; when you see a beautiful place, you see tourism. With tourism you see development- increasing development. What I saw in Cappadocia, I experienced for over 20 years in Hawaii- development going out of control because of natural beauty and the inevitable ‘progress’ of civilization.

Last week while I was reading the local news from my Twitter feed, I saw 3 different articles on a major development issue in Cappadocia- Uçhisar to be exact. I don’t know enough about the community, but I know enough to know that it’s going to be a big, reoccurring problem for the community. The community is going to change- because it’s so beautiful of a natural wonder. It already has-drastically since my last visit 5 years ago. Even more so than my initial visit 11 years ago. If the community doesn’t rise up now and protest big development… well…I hope the community is up for an uphillbattle. They should have the power to change things if they unite.

From what I read, there are no archaeologists required on site during all aspects of construction- from the initial grubbing of the surface to mass sub-surface excavation with large machinery. It’s frightening to think what information is being lost. I would tell the local community there that they need to be citizen-policing the construction site. I would hope that at least the developer is a local person and/or entity so that the concerns of the community will weigh heavy in his/their hearts.

I haven’t a clue about historic preservation laws in Turkey, or the government’s desire and/or ability to keep large-scale development in check with the needs of the local population. I somehow have the idea that their stance is not as progressive as Hawaii’s though. I saw the same thing in Hawaii: corruption, finding loopholes in county, state and Federal laws and developers exploiting those loopholes, etc. I saw more than enough developments go through without the proper ‘chain of command’ being taken.

Anyway, this is on my mind at 6 A.M. I should be sleeping… My mind still wanders- to less complicated stuff though; Where should I go for my birthday? Am I going to Kabak for New Year’s? Should I buy a bread machine? Yes folks, this last one has been on my mind for a few weeks. So, Corporal Punishment has a bread machine, and she makes bread every week. Lately she hand-delivers to me freshly baked bread still warm from the oven… Not just any bread mind you, but hearty, healthy breads that are so delicious to eat that you don’t need to put anything on it. Anyway, I’m thinkng that a bread machine will improve my life! See, it really is the little things in life that matter…
I think I see the first light of dawn trying to crack through my silk curtains so I must end here and sleep for 1 more hour.

Happy Thanksgiving people! I’m eating turkey in Turkey tonight! Yes, my Turkish friends are having a Thanksgiving soiree for us vagabond expats. This is a wonderful thing that is what life is all about. Life is so precious- even when you are lost in confusion and thought. There is always something to be grateful about. I am so very grateful for my friends and family, and to know that I can feel at home wherever I am.

*kerplunk*
oh, Happy Thanksgiving today, or tomorrow- wherever you are!

7.29.2012

tunis 3-D

...And 3rd time is a charm. Yet again, another post I excavate from my (newly found) "Lost Series" of blog posts that never made it into print...

Scene: I am living in Tunis. David had just moved into his apartment I believe, and this was our home-cooked dinner for four. The centerpiece came with the flat...Bonus. As I recall there were some velvet wall hangings of chicks scantily clothed that corresponded to the signs of the zodiac as well...That was a funny apartment. Incidentally, this is the same apartment in which a group of us teachers were holed up in during the Jasmine Revolution on the fateful day that then president/dictator Ben Ali fled the country en route to Saudi Arabia- where he continues to rot...

Okay that's it. Enjoy:

______________


Here's what I've been up to in my absence of prose...
dinner at David's complete w/Tunisian Red and appropriate centerpiece

Another lost blog entry I never got around to posting...

So, to set the scene for this seriously late post, I had just moved to Istanbul after returning to Hawaii for 5 months to recover from the Tunisia experience. When I left Tunis, I had little money, the school I was working at had closed down temporarily during the Jasmine Revolution events and still hadn't re-opened, so my old boss at the archaeology firm I worked at on Maui told me to, "get the f*ck out of that country and come back here and work." Because it was February, it certainly wasn't a great time to be looking for teaching gigs, and I had little money, so off I went back to Hawaii's loving arms. But not without first stopping back briefly in Istanbul to drop off all my luggage because I knew instinctively that I would be returning to Turkey next to live and teach.

I fortunately have an excellent network of loving friends residing in Istanbul that helped me out, and continue to help me out, with my various travels and moves and storage facilities... (Sorry Ebam, I swear that I will get rid of that last suitcase this next visit)... And, Ebam, thank you so very much for letting me store my luggage at your lovely flat! You too Fezzy! And Murat. And Wicki. And Karen...

But I digress... here it is, this little snippet:
--------------

I guess you could say I've been selfish with my ponderings lately, or that I don't have any ponderings lately or that I'm just too lazy to post my ponderings lately but truth be told I'm just too busy being scatterbrained. To bring you all back up to speed, I'm living in Turkey, presently in Istanbul the past 6 weeks but will soon be heading down to the southeast/ Anatolian region to teach at a university. Of course you all know how my Tunisian odyssey resulted...

Speaking of Tunisia, I have just returned from a whirlwind trip. Tunis still has me in it's grasp, I can say that. As well as another grip that has recently emerged. Perhaps more on that later on...all I know is that I definitely signed up for this adventure and I don't want my money back. To end the convoluted words here, Tunisia continues to be on my radar. I just hope my residency status there comes to and end soon as it is infuriating to have to pay $60TD every time I leave the country... Honestly, I have never been so broke living and working somewhere!

Some post Jasmine Revolution (as it is so inappropriately named) observations of mine: Ramadan during the heat of sizzling summer temperatures continues to fascinate me. This year seemed 'different' than last year. First there were no restaurants open downtown or in Lafayette that were serving food so I missed out on dining at all my fvorite haunts- Bombay Chawarma in my old hood being the most sorely missed indeed. As well the crepe place on Bourghiba. This also meant there wasn't much alcohol to be found during the fasting hours, but we did manage to find a few dissidents that allowed us to indulge in drinking adult libations behind closed curtains or doors. Next, taxis are still dirt cheap, don't have air conditioning (or drivers are still too cheap to use it), drivers absolutely abhor it when you 'gently' slam their door shut- which I instinctively do being from Hawaii, the land of "Maui Cruisers" as they are so affectionately called.

Ok more later as I need to catchup on some much needed beauty rest...

It's that day again... So time for another story. Gather around peeps!






 NOTE: Here I am at work for 5 more days until vacation. Since most all of us on the teaching staff have little to do, I am searching for files to clean up, papers to throw away, etc. So I was looking through my blog postings and came across a few that are still in draft form... So I'm posting this one right now. It was written earlier this year in Istanbul on New Year's Eve. I was feeling melancholy due to where I was one year previously- also in Istanbul, yet on my way back to Tunisia, where I was living at the time- as opposed to this past New Year in Istanbul when I was on my way back to Gaziantep!

I believe I've posted of this event before, the Jasmine Revolution, so you can search through my blog archives to find the more in depth information. I was writing this more for myself than posting, I believe, but after re-reading it just now I feel like I want to share. It was, after all, the most intense experience of my life... I continue to write about this experience so I never forget.

So... here it is- better late than never:
  




Not a New Year's resolution kinda gal, as I strive to develop myself, my strength, my stamina, my compassion all days, all ways. I always want to find time to read more books, to practice more yoga, to let go of judgments, to save more money, to write more, etc. If anything, new moons are more monumental for me than new years...

Last year at this time I found myself returning home to Tunisia after spending the Hollydaze in Istanbul. I walked straight into a Jasmine Revolution and kaos in my neighborhood. I walked the streets of Lafayette with my partner-in-crime Stephen (thicker than thieves us) on January 13th in the early afternoon. Hours later I found myself thrown into the back of an unknown van with Cyrus and Stephen racing to the hospital with Stephen lying nearly unconscious from gunshot wounds in his upper thighs. I found myself in those moments wondering if I was going to die as our drivers headed straight into the shooting arena.

That evening I found myself at various friends flats as our neighborhood was off limits. We were all huddled around Stephen. His morphine was wearing off, and he had no other pain medications as no pharmacies were open. Eventually I found myself at Faeez, Sam and Kirsten's flat eating supper on the carpet in their living room and smoking cigarettes and drinking what little alcohol that could be scavenged up.

The next morning I found myself up early racing uneasily through the streets downtown back to Claire and  Dja's flat, where Stephen was. Dja left early to try to find a pharmacy to get Stephen's prescriptions filled. More uneasiness, more cigarettes. We decided it best to chance getting outta the city to Menzah suburbs at David's flat. Ehsan, her bf, and Liz pulled up in a car later and we painstakingly got Stephen into the car and set about our task.

David's place seemed a refuge in comparison to the war-like scene we had just come from downtown. I felt safe. Stephen had his meds, and Adrienne and Sarah were also taking refuge there. That afternoon my security was shattered when the looting started at the Monoprix Supermarket in front of David's place. For about 15 minutes we were all seized with sheer terror as we saw masked men with broken lead pipes and tire irons shattering the storefront windows below us, not knowing if they would reach the 4th floor of the flat or not. I had visions of the building on fire. I had visions of Stephen lying immobile on the couch helpless to what was going on. I had visions that I needed to stay strong for him and the group, and for myself.

The uneasy day passed into an uncomfortable night as we prepared dinner, all in summer moods with fleeting moments of joy to be alive. Te next few weeks were like a drug-induced haze with Stephen and I returning to Lafayette, and setting up HQ at my flat. It almost felt like a festive atmosphere and nightly gatherings of friends at my place making huge vats of spaghetti, etc. During the daylight, with a few hours of curfew lifted, we would meet up in the hood at various cafes and drink coffee and smoke cigarettes and talk about the previous evenings events, before having to scurry off and buy food and alcohol before curfew set in for the day.

I had various house guests as well that would visit. First, there was the doctor that had to make his way to the hood daily to address Stephen's wounds. Avril, Houssem, Claire and Dja, Karim (yum!), the 2 neighborhood kids that would bring Stephen shisha every day, the chicken restaurant owner that took a liking to us, Cyrus, etc. Some of those moments will remain the happiest of times I honestly think.

It is nearly the one year anniversary of these events. I have a lot to be thankful for. Stephen is fine, and moving to G-tep! My wonderful friends in Tunis are all fine and I feel like I always have a home to return to in Tunis as I was able to share such an intense experience with it's denizens there. My friends and family elsewhere are all fine. I have a job. I get to travel. The list goes on.

 So, its not about a new year, but rather a continuous timeline of experiences and achievements that make me thirst to continue to develop myself and make connections.

12.04.2011

Bayram 2011 Part II: Turkish photo odyssey

Istanbul bloody beautiful sunrise

Osmaniye metro station, Istanbul

...And she's climbing a stairway to... 

Istiklal Caddesi charm

Eminonu

Cannakale stud

Cannakale by night

feline fine in the sunshine at kitty kat cafe. Hmmm wonder what's on the menu...

Aegean Island bound

my not-so-secret admirer for the afternoon
1st sighting of Bozcaada

downtown 

color-coded 

beautiful wasteland

perspective

Bozcaada street gang

blast off

antiquity with a modern flair

past life

nowhere in particular
hidden treasure

inlaid treasures

from higher ground

fading memoirs

couldn't resist: my favorite WMD

da bush needs a trim

nocturnal headquarters

nightmare

please have a seat & proceed to just relax & space out into the distance

sleepy harbor
solitaire

just another typical night we're settling into...

sassy puddy cat

Ceyda on her ride

Ar!

Ceyda merging into the artistic scenery at our #2 headquarters 

creationism

Ezine- famous for its delicious cheese

Ezine bus station- back on the bus heading outta here for next destination on my Bayram 2011 Odyssey: Izmir!

2.13.2011

1st clue of the Jasmine scent trail tale... part I

I thought it might be interesting for readers to see into my insights into experiencing the Jasmine Revolution of Tunisia 2010/2011 by posting all my Facebook comments during the chaos that ensued. It serves as a timeline of historic events.

So, the Jasmine Revolution was 'quiet' in its humble beginnings... It's no wonder as I had been living in Tunisia under a repressive regime where journalism & internet censorship was on high alert. The inception started down in the south in a little town, Sidi Bouzid on December 17th. This, of course, was the day that a young man immolated himself (set himself on fire) in an (apparent) effort to escape his oppression.

When did I first hear about all this? December 23rd, when I was in Istanbul visiting friends for the holidays. I remember the exact moment well. I was sitting on Elizabeth's chair at her computer in Ortakoy in her 3rd floor flat overlooking the Ortakoy Camii & Bospherous Bridge spanning over to Asia. It was a beautiful scene to set the scene...

My 1st posting of this information came on Christmas Day, December 25th. I emailed solo_ojo, who would later be shot by the loyalist police forces in downtown Tunis in our neighborhood of Lafayette on January 13th while we were getting foodstuffs and checking in on what was happening...

So I emailed him this article, http://af.reuters.com/article/topNews/idAFJOE6BO00R20101225, from Reuters Africa with my title as OMG. As well this article would be my 1st FB posting. Now remember, I knew that internet content was scrutinized as well as censored, so I was a little apprehensive about emailing articles I was finding while I was in Turkey. I was genuinely concerned that I would be watched, as well as the people I was emailing these articles to...

So this article got through to Stephen. This next email to him did not at first so I had to try a couple of times, and he finally received it: http://bikyamasr.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/bin-ali-visit-.jpg   What you are seeing here is a (well planned photo opp by the ex-dictator/president of Tunisia, Ben Ali, or Dictator Dilbert (herein referred to as DD) as I so fondly referred to him as. The story goes... the person in the hospital bed is Mohamed Bouazizi, the man who immolated himself back on December 17th. DD at 1st declined to let his fellow countrymen know what was happening inside Tunisia. The government-controlled news agency, Tunisia Online News (in English & French), issued its 1st article on December 28th, 2010 as follows:
http://www.tunisiaonlinenews.com/political-parties-denounce-media-manipulation-of-sidi-bouzid-events/
Because the link will not open, I have provided the content below...
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Political parties denounce media manipulation of Sidi Bouzid events

Tunisian political parties denounced on Monday, the manipulation by some Arab and foreign media of events that recently occurred  in Sidi Bouzid.
In communiqués issued on Monday, the parties voice outrage over the media manipulation of these events for petty political ends by dramatizing them and exploiting them for suspicious reasons to tarnish the image of Tunisia.
The Socialist Democrats Movement (MDS) denounces the manipulation by some Arab and foreign media of events that occurred recently in Sidi Bouzid.
In a communiqué issued on Monday, the party voices outrage over the media manipulation of these events by some parties for petty political ends by dramatizing them and exploiting them for suspicious reasons to tarnish the image of Tunisia.
MDS says that while being committed to freedom of press and expression, in an objective way, it “denounces practices that distort the reality and lapse into the sensational.”
The Socialist Democrats Movement underlines that dialogue is the way to “find adequate and suitable solutions that preserve social cohesion and peace.”
The People’s Unity Party (PUP) warned, in a statement issued on Monday, against “the serious allegations that some satellite channels continue to broadcast, as part of suspicious orientations seeking to harm Tunisia, by amplifying and distorting events, based on reports whose sources are not credible and by exploiting politically and morally bankrupt figures and individuals and by not taking the trouble to check the allegations of these persons.”
PUP expresses its belief that the allegations of Al Jazeera and some news agencies that have imitated it are now unveiled to the national public opinion, all national forces and all those committed to the objective approach among friends of Tunisia abroad who judge at their true worth the country’s development and political gains and denounce the use of violence, because any damage to the property, rejected politically and morally, is a threat to social peace and an unacceptable practice.
The Liberal Social Party (PSL) denounced the slanderous media campaign conducted for suspicious ends by “Al-Jazeera” TV channel” to achieve objectives that by no means serve the interests of citizens and the homeland.”
In a statement released by its politburo on Monday, the PSL says this channel has opted for manipulation and exaggeration in broadcasting events, “without taking the trouble to check the reality of facts and ignoring deliberately the gains and achievements accomplished by Tunisia of the Change.”
This, explains PSL, shows clearly and explicitly, the unwholesome intentions of this channel and its conspiracies which target the climate of civil peace, stability and development prevailing in Tunisia.
In this statement, the Liberal Social Party expresses belief that discipline, respect of law, attachment to patriotic responsibility, rejection of violence, consolidation of contact with civil society, respect of symbols of the Republic and national sovereignty are likely to face up all those who sow discord and defeat their conspiracies which achieved their targets in several countries by serving neo-colonialism agendas.”
Claiming rights under the rule of law and institutions should not be made by any use of violence and violation of law which provides the opportunity to extremist groups to exploit an isolated event to serve plans and agendas of instigators of disorder.
Events have proved that those who spread lies and slanders find in conflict and tension a favorable environment to hatch their conspiracies which serve only enemies of the country.
The Unionist Democratic Union (UDU) said methods used by Satellite channel “Al Jazeera” to cover the Sidi Bouzid events “are not professional and do not respect the rules and principles of journalism”.
This coverage, adds the party ” is politically motivated seeking to make the situation more tense through dramatization and exaggeration.”
UDU says, in a statement issued, on Monday, that parties to which Al Jazeera spoke for the coverage of the events lost their credibility and attempt to exploit the events for petty political ends, to inflame the situation and push towards a pseudo-crisis.
The party underlines that it realized, through the media coverage of the Sidi Bouzid events, several truths particularly the fact that Al Jazira channel chose to deal with parties known for a certain political affiliation, which means that they are not impartial and that it positioned itself as party through dramatization and political manipulation.
UDU criticizes the use by the Al Jazeera channel of images and videos posted on social networks, without taking the trouble to check their credibility, and committing professional errors, particularly regarding the importance of marches of solidarity organized and their aims, giving them greater importance than they were really on the ground.
Additionally, UDU denounces the media coverage made on many several web sites, which lack professionalism and respect for rules of journalism, reproducing serious distortions in a bias that harms the image of Tunisia abroad.
The Green Party for Progress (PVP) denounced in a statement issued on Monday the biased and slanderous method of “Al Jazeera” channel in covering the recent events that occurred in Tunisia.
This channel, it underlines, deliberately opted for dramatization of events through the continuous broadcast, for several days, of images whose source is not authoritative and resorting to a directed editing of these images to place the course of events outside their context and resort to sectionalism.
The party indicates that “Al Jazeera” channel has been used, since its creation, to divert facts and make an improper reading of events, ignoring objectivity, professional integrity and ethics of journalism.
The statement underlines that anyone knows pertinently that the agenda and programs of this channel are marked by ambiguity, lack of discernment and constant choice of sensationalism and misinterpretation of facts, while seeking to manipulate events to serve purposes known by all in order to undermine the peace and stability prevailing in Tunisia.
PVP adds that “Al Jazeera” Channel should have dealt with the events in Tunisia in an objective and neutral way and not resort to sensationalism and manoeuvres seeking to sow discord, dramatize facts and hide the reality of things.
PVP voices its conviction that the attempts of this channel to sow discord in the ranks of the Tunisian society by denaturing facts will be doomed to failure, thanks to the high level of awareness of all Tunisians and the strong commitment of the Head of State to achieve development in the different regions of the country and create new opportunities of investment and employment.
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This last one is particularly disturbing as the entire picture just looks... FAKE? The doctors/nurses etc. on the right are *glaring* at Ben Ali as I see it. The one women looks like she is seething in hate staring him down. I love this picture- because I can't believe that DD actually approved this picture to be published as the disdain for him from the staff looks evident. Unfortunately it is a heartbreaking picture in its content as I believe Mohamed died a few days later. 
To continue on w/TON for December 28th, this... http://www.tunisiaonlinenews.com/president-zine-el-abidine-ben-ali-visits-young-man-mohamed-bouazizi/  - ok that one doesn't seem to be loading so here is the content: 

President Ben Ali takes interest in social conditions of three families from governorate of Sidi Bouzid

President Zine el Abidine Ben Ali took interest, on Tuesday afternoon, in the social conditions of three families from the Sidi Bouzid governorate, when receiving the father of Mohamed Ammari, who died in Menzel Bouzayane, the mother of Mohamed Bouazizi, who set fire to himself, and the mother of Hassan Ben Salah Neji, who died of electrocution.
President Ben Ali extended sympathy to the families of the two deceased, stressing, on the occasion, his keenness to enquire about these families’ living conditions and to lend them all necessary social protection.
(Source TAP)
... and finally this... http://www.tunisiaonlinenews.com/president-ben-alis-address-to-tunisian-people/, which won't load either: 

President Ben Ali’s address to Tunisian people

President Zine el Abidine Ben Ali delivered an address to the Tunisian people on Tuesday evening. Here is the full text of the address:
“In the Name of God, the Merciful, the Compassionate
Fellow citizens,
I have been following with anxiety and concern the events that took place over the recent days in Sidi Bouzid.
While these events were triggered by one social case, of which we understand the circumstances and psychological factors and whose consequences are regrettable, the exaggerated turn that these events have taken, as a result of their political manipulation by some sides who do not wish good to the homeland and resort to some foreign television channels which broadcast false and unchecked allegations and rely on dramatisation, fabrication and defamation hostile to Tunisia, requires from us to clarify some issues and confirm the truths that must be taken into consideration:
First, we do understand the feelings of any unemployed person, particularly if his search for a job goes on, his social conditions are difficult and his psychological structure is fragile, which may lead him to resort to desperate solutions in order to draw attention on his situation.
We spare no efforts to prevent such cases by providing them with a special and appropriate treatment.
Thus, we pursue our policies and programmes of employment, protection of the disadvantaged categories, care for poor families and vitalisation of regional development, through successive investment programmes covering all regions of the country, the latest being those we decided at last December 15 Cabinet meeting and the announced additional programme which appropriated funds will reach 6500 million dinars.
This initiative is part of our concern to meet all attributes of balanced and fair development among regions and ensure fair distribution of its fruits among all categories.
Second, unemployment is a major concern in the different countries of the world, be they developed or emerging; and we, in Tunisia, are straining every nerve to curb it and deal with its effects and impact, particularly on families who lack resources. The State will exert additional efforts in this area during the period to come.
Indeed, the considerable results we have achieved in the area of education at the qualitative and quantitative levels, and which have earned consideration and tribute from specialised international and UN bodies, materialises a fundamental and constant choice in our policy to produce an educated people.
Among these major results, there is the significant increase in the number of university graduates shared out between all regions of the country without exception and whose number exceeded, last year for instance, 80,000 graduates, a figure of which we are proud; in the same way we accept the challenge it imposes for the employment of this high rate of graduates among the job applicants, and this, thanks to the different employment mechanisms and programmes.
Despite the difficulties posed by this new category of unemployed, it remains a source of optimism for the future, an optimism of an educated people who perseveres on the path of well-being and more progress.
Third, we have constantly sought since the Change to entrench dialogue as principle and method of communication among all national and social sides on issues and developments that occur.
Consequently, there is no possible way, in spite of our understanding, that we accept the exploitation of isolated cases, an event or a fortuitous situation, to achieve petty political targets, at the detriment of the national community’s interests, its gains and achievements, first and foremost, concord, security and stability.
It is not acceptable that a minority of extremists and agitators in the pay of others, and against the country’s interests, resort to violence and street disturbances as means of expression, whatever their form is in a State of law like ours. This is a negative and anti-civil behaviour that presents a distorted image of our country and impedes the flow of investors and tourists which impacts negatively on job creation, while we need them to curb joblessness. Law will be enforced rigorously against these people.
Fourth, we reassert the need to respect freedom of opinion and of speech and keenness to enshrine them in law and entrench them in practice; and we respect any position if it is expressed within the framework of law, the rules and dialogue.
The State will strive to find solutions likely to meet job applications which will carry on increasing in the coming years, as it will act in the meantime to further increase wages and household incomes and, in general, improve living standards of all Tunisians.
Fifth, we are aware of the hardships generated by unemployment and its psychological impact on those who experience it. Consequently, we call on the administration to avoid all shortcomings in dealing with these difficult cases and perfectly follow them up.
It is the duty of all regional and local authorities to shoulder their responsibilities of listening to the citizens and joining efforts of all to identify situations that require special care to find appropriate solutions and meet the most urgent cases or those whose waiting time for employment has lasted too long.
We are always committed to the social dimension of our development policy so that no region or category be deprived of its opportunity for employment and investment.”
(Source TAP)


Now, that's a lot of oral diarrhea, in 1 day no less, from someone who previously stated that there was nothing wrong going on inside the country... Just saying... 

ok this is enough for today as I believe you readers have your homework cut out for you if you find yourselves so inclined to follow this timeline of events that will come to change my life
Enjoy reading the BULLSHIT from Tunisia Online News... Next up I'll show you what really was happening behind Tunisia's closed doors...