Sunday morning. Awaiting the church bells with a child-like glee. It's 7:30 am and we are pleasantly smug at what has passed so far in this lovely country. A country whose passion and geo-political evirnonment the people wear on their sleeves. This includes fashion (IMHO the peeps wear very utilitarian garb. I hardly have seen a chick wearing high heels. The peeps dress smart casual and efficiently. Everybody seems like they are working. I haven't noticed a group of 'dandies.'
It seems if peeps have money, they aren't wanting to spend it, or show that they are spending it. In Baixo Chiado (luxury shopping district), restaurants open, but no one in them. Bookstores are closed at night- this is, IMHO, a bad sign that the intellectuals aren't browsing books at night.
Yesterday late afternoon while we were in a square drinking the requisite bottle of Portugal's Vinho Verde, there was no one else enjoying getting their drink on outside. It was a beautiful sunny winter day with a direct view to the castle on the hill and no one was outside. The kids were outside though, across the street at the status with their skateboards queued up to show their skill. They even had a skate ramp. The city knows how to entertain their restless youth.
Anyway, the point is, everybody is affected by the economic crisis they err experiencing right. It is a somber collective spirit. The peeps watching has been fantastic. Beautiful, strong peeps. Yesterday's odyssey was a gret e-introduction to the city. I was briefly here in 2001. I had just left Morocco, where I was staying down in the Sahara Desert village of Merzouga when the events of 911 occurred. but I digress... Back to Lisbon live and direct.
We took Tram 28 to Arco do Sao Vicente and headed to the Feria do Lado Sarueday flea market. Yes, you all can collectively squeal with delight for me right now... What a blast. If you lived here, this is where you would come every weekend and make a day of it. Walking up and down the streets laden down with treasures from past and present. You can stop and drink or eat in a cafe right off the street fair, or you can venture up the hill a bit further into the Alfama- like Solo_ojo and I did... We we on a mission and I knew where to accomplish it.
Anyway, we took care of business and had a fantastic local brew to wash it down. W also met the local supah-stars if you will... Lovely motley crew! A good time was had by all, and a fantastic storyline for an Indi-style film I should write/direct/star in...
After leaving the favela... We headed back to our hood, but by foot. The Alfamais such a cool neighborhood full of vibrant peeps and a fantastic walking promenade (of sorts) with incredible views of Lisboa's harbor. We laid down on some park benches and just crashed out for a while. The sun was beating down on my body and I had not a worry in the world for those moments. As the sun lowered, I started to have a worry. You all know how much I love buying boots, but wearing them can be sucha burden for an island girl who tends to be most comfortable running around in Havaianas. So today I was wearing my Reef's because yesterday I wore my boots all day and my feet rebelled. They demanded to be free the following day. Well, it is certainly warm here, but it is is also wintertime... This wasn't too worrisome I suppose as we headed strait to catch sunset with a bottle of... Yep... Vinho Verde.
It felt weird though. We were loving life, yet there were so any peeps coming up to us. They had no money. Yu could see the hardship on their faces. It felt oh so very bourgeoise to be 'indulging' in an 11 Euro bottle of...Vinho Verede. W lamented we should be grateful for our jobs we complain about. It also felt weird to feel like I had a lot of money comparatively-since I don't ... It was a humbling feeling. I am definitely grateful for what I have cultivated in life thus far.
Walking round ten streets st night. Getting accounted with loves le characters with a story and a product to sell. Desperate to sell it whatever it may have been. Seriously, the streets are flooded with small time hustlers. Again, I dig this city and its 'edgy' feel. There is a grit to this city. People work. They work hard for little. They are tough, and they are real.
There as a huge manifestation (where isn't there throughout Europe and the MENA region these days) by all educators and
1.26.2013
1.18.2013
Mer-Mare
Yea, strange title. So, as the (related) story goes... I have this friend back on my Hawaiian homeland. INTERRUPTION: I use the preposition 'on' because it's more logical to use 'on' when referring to an island- spatially speaking, of course. END INTERRUPTION: He's an archaeologist- one of the rare species still practicing this rite of passage. Anyway, he tends to ramble on in his thoughts while working- which I can admire since I tended to do the same as well. His sometimes nonsensical thoughts, like my sometimes nonsensical thoughts, materialize into written word. As mine did/do occasionally. Ahem...
I mean, with the technological age, my thoughts also materialized into text messages too. I wish I would have somehow managed to archive all those countless texts to Lil'D, Rochelle-Le-Belle, Codykins, Katie-girl, Shellusha, Hilly-Billy, EdVice, etc... Every one of you know exactly who you are. What fun those countless hours, days, months,years of texting our immediate psychoses while attempting to keep our eyes peeled on some bulldozer or excavator, etc.
Then there was the era of podcasts while monitoring- complete with texting when necessary. Some great podcasts out there: The Moth, No Agenda, Adam Curry's Daily Source Code, Bluegrass Highway, Hospital Podcast, Naked Archaeology... etc
Okay, bringing up 'Naked Archaeology' brings me back to the original intentions of this story- in a kinda round-about kinda way... So, this dude in question. A bro actually. I mean a real kinda bro that a girl can depend on. You know? So, there was this famous story of him actually that I had heard about even before meeting him. Again, as the story goes:
He was working for a big name on the Big Island. He was alone digging in a lava field in the middle of the day with a hot blazing sun beating down on him. This lava field was somewhere near the ocean, I believe (not a really important detail of the story honestly). So, this spot happened to be in the path of the local Hawaiian Air or Aloha Airlines flight route when heading to Kona International Airport, which really isn't an 'international airport' as we think of the term 'INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT.' I mean, it is kinda just like a landing strip I suppose. Again, not an important detail- the size of the airport...
So his boss was flying back onto the island (check the preposition again folks, 'onto') and low and behold what does he see as he glances out the window of the plane. A man. Nekkid! Nekkid with a shovel and boots (likely steel-toed) and hat with some wild hair flowing about (not sure about that detail, but added it for some charm).
Is this true, or is this just an Urban Myth that has been spun so long ago that it sticks in the cobwebs of our memory as a truth somewhat forgotten?
Okay, this is getting me closer to the original intention of my post this morning. Incidentally, it is 10 am and I'm lounging in bed drinking some Mehmet Effendi espresso blend coffee with stolen Starbuck's brown sugar packets (thanks Fez). Just having finished the last of the pasta I whipped up last night and served to the troops. My trusty companions that somehow still enjoy keeping company with me and all my absurdness...
Anyway, to get off track a bit more. A little background on last night. Here are the highlights: Pasta, popsicles, Supreme Beings of Leisure, Solo_ojo, Warden Wardo, tequila, vodka, conversation, fact-finding missions concerning various deadly-serious topics... fade to black...
So, when I was working in the field, taking copious notes on soil, erosion, stratigraphic inclusions and such other titillating geologic lexicon (all done on the infamous 'Write In The Rain' booklets we were supplied with), I used to also write "Very Dirty Poetry". Now, it was 'Very Dirty' because I was very dirty. One cannot expect to come clean from a day's work involving wind, water, sand, hot baking sun, mud, bugs, exhaust from large machinery and other such highlights as the occasional spray of hydraulic fluid bursting out from a broken hose. Or, there is also the scenario played out MANY times of a broken waterline or, even worse, a broken sewer line... Anyway, point being is that I was always dirty working. I mean, my poems weren't necessarily ONLY themed with dirty verses- sometimes though...
So my volumes of 'Write In The Rain' archaeology notes entitled, SECRET SPY MANUAL. DON'T PEEK YOU SPY #1, #2, #3, #4, etc has a long history of inclusions of 'Very Dirty Poetry'. It was always difficult to give up these spy manuals when one was filled up *blush*.
So, THIS brings us to the point this morning- finally. I'm exhausted... I had a dream last night. I entered it into my SECRET SPY MANUAL. DON'T PEEK YOU SPY #43 (I just made that number up. As well the SECRET SPY MANUAL. DON'T PEEK YOU SPY Write In The Rain journal. I didn't really bring any Write In The Rain journals to Turkey with me).
But here it is for all to ponder...
-->
"Mer-mare"
(Inspired/written during after 5:30AM CALL TO
PRAYER THIS MORNING & not able to fall back to sleep…)
Thought I saw a Merman
In
my dream last night
I saw his silky-wet-shadowy-sheen against the moon –held
captive chained to luxurious lure of the sea
Lurking
through motionless tide, slick as
blackest of oil
Blend
in he cannot
I am attracted to this oil slick
Thought I saw a Merman
In
my dream last night
“Do they exist”, silently quizzing myself sensing
Darwinian scientific delight
Trajectory
Trailing. Moody heart pounding
He came to rest. Perched against a rock. Listening
For
me
From
the offshore winds I sailed
Into his beckoning harbor. Take shelter from storm-swept seas
Suddenly
surging white-capped surf.
Calm after the storm. Sunrise at last
Thought I saw a Merman
In
my dream last night
Their ancient lore buried deep inside my treasure chest
Of jewel-encrusted knowledge
Ancient
wisdoms
Only a solitary pirate can witness late in the night
holding
vigil at the sea shore.
A reflection of a soft, supple metallic orb
Taunting.
Thrilling. Manna from the Divine?
Go Ahead- Rummage Through my Treasure Chest
Discover
that one gem so fine. That I am
No wonder the moon took such time to pass the sea
Last
night
Thought I saw a merman
In
my dream last night
It
was just a dream
It
was just a dream
It
was just a dream
It
was just a dream
It
was just a dream
Was
it just a dream?
Now, I didn't want to give it all away before you gave it a 1st look-through. A Mer-Mare, in my humble opinion, is a dream about either a mermaid or a merman (there ARE definitely mermen out there, and they are JUST as elusive as mermaids are). A dream about the 'Mar' (Sea)! Get it? So not necessarily a Mer-Man NIGHTmare, or a DAYmare, but a mer (in my case a merman) mare: Mer-Mare...
*kerplunk*
Again, I can't be responsible for figuring out a connection between any of this... I am still 'editor-at- large' -less.
1.14.2013
Happy Anniversary Jasmine...
Today marks 2 years since Tunisians came together and revolted against their then dictator, Ben Ali. I feel fortunate to have witnessed it while living downtown in the Lafayette neighborhood. I feel fortunate because of what I saw. Because of what I felt. Because of what took place. Because history was being re-written. I don't know how I feel about it today, as Tunisia is still recovering, and it is not clear at all if liberties are being granted, or continue to be taken away with the new (provisional) government.
But back to those moments. I was so proud of my Tunisian friends, colleagues and students. They stood in the wake of danger daring to defy the iron-fist management of the country by Ben Ali and histhugs cabinet members... My friends were so proud of have brought down an oppressive regime. The courage and energy that radiated from them was infectious. There were so many reasons to celebrate. That was then. What is happening now?
Things are not okay in Tunisia. Rights are being taken away still. Disinformation continues to exist. Corruption. Joblessness still rules. Freedoms that existed before Jasmine are threatened today. Take the government's plan to forbid public displays of affection I'm not talking about acts of lewd sexual behavior. I'm talking kissing/hugging in public... Take also the government's comments about what 'art' is supposed to be at a recent art exhibit in La Marsa where some political works of art were on display & the local Salafis didn't take kindly to & decided to violate the art space to show their dissatisfaction. Take the (apparent) Salafi attack & subsequent destruction of a mausoleum of a 13th century Sufi saint in the beautiful Mediterranean town of Sidi Bou Said last weekend. Take the government's non-committal action for it all... blah blah blah...
So much beauty I discovered while living in Tunisia. I was so broke living there, and I still was able to see/feel such beauty. I didn't need much living there. I was happy. I had a beautiful old apartment on Rue D'Egypte. I could walk to work and all around downtown. I had lovely friends. We had sweet, cheap watering holes we used to frequent complete with lively conversations. I could continue on. But there is no need. You all get the picture.
Many of us have moved on since Jasmine. Quite a few remain. I am almost envious. Those who remain get the real picture. They are a part of the solution- a solution that is taking a back seat to a status-quo corruption that cannot be chased away so easily as Ben Ali was... They need all their strength.
My time there was short. My abundance of love for Tunisia is endless. I briefly returned in 2011. Walking the streets. Taking in the smells. Seeing old friends. Eating my favorite foods. All of it felt like a homecoming of sorts. A homecoming that was really without ever having really settled into a home. That's how special Tunis is to me.
I will return again someday.
But back to those moments. I was so proud of my Tunisian friends, colleagues and students. They stood in the wake of danger daring to defy the iron-fist management of the country by Ben Ali and his
Things are not okay in Tunisia. Rights are being taken away still. Disinformation continues to exist. Corruption. Joblessness still rules. Freedoms that existed before Jasmine are threatened today. Take the government's plan to forbid public displays of affection I'm not talking about acts of lewd sexual behavior. I'm talking kissing/hugging in public... Take also the government's comments about what 'art' is supposed to be at a recent art exhibit in La Marsa where some political works of art were on display & the local Salafis didn't take kindly to & decided to violate the art space to show their dissatisfaction. Take the (apparent) Salafi attack & subsequent destruction of a mausoleum of a 13th century Sufi saint in the beautiful Mediterranean town of Sidi Bou Said last weekend. Take the government's non-committal action for it all... blah blah blah...
So much beauty I discovered while living in Tunisia. I was so broke living there, and I still was able to see/feel such beauty. I didn't need much living there. I was happy. I had a beautiful old apartment on Rue D'Egypte. I could walk to work and all around downtown. I had lovely friends. We had sweet, cheap watering holes we used to frequent complete with lively conversations. I could continue on. But there is no need. You all get the picture.
Many of us have moved on since Jasmine. Quite a few remain. I am almost envious. Those who remain get the real picture. They are a part of the solution- a solution that is taking a back seat to a status-quo corruption that cannot be chased away so easily as Ben Ali was... They need all their strength.
My time there was short. My abundance of love for Tunisia is endless. I briefly returned in 2011. Walking the streets. Taking in the smells. Seeing old friends. Eating my favorite foods. All of it felt like a homecoming of sorts. A homecoming that was really without ever having really settled into a home. That's how special Tunis is to me.
I will return again someday.
1.13.2013
cheap ticket to paradise...
Sunday afternoon in the Fertile Crescent
A perfect gloomy day to traipse around the neighborhood and eat a superb Sunday brunch- incomplete, of course, because of the absence of mimosas. Of course, I'm all about finding solutions to problems these days... I'm resourceful. My day has morphed into a 'clean the apartment' afternoon. Whenever I get ready to go on an odyssey I like to start with a clean house upon return.
So I found myself a tailor! Tailor Mehmet downtown near the kale. Awesome man. Somehow we managed to communicate that I want a pencil skirt made from an exact pattern that I have. We went to the fabric store yesterday afternoon (fabric PORN I swear!). What a wonderland fabric stores here in Turkey. It was pure ecstasy. I wanted to savor the experience. Nothing like touching every bolt of fabric of the right weight, color & texture. AWESOME!!!
Can't describe anymore to you all without becoming obscene how much I enjoyed the experience. Check that one off the list now- personal tailor in Turkey. After the pencil skirt, I plan on taking a few more trousers to him as well... I can see this will become a new addiction for me. Surprisingly cheap as well. Perhaps by next year I will have myself my own sewing machine so I can do it myself. I miss my sewing machine. I hope Katie-girl is having a good time with it.
It seems this post is going to be filled with the most mundane of things, but I figure that for all you guys reading back home, it might be terribly fascinating. Honestly, just going to the grocery store still holds fascination for myself down here. Folding laundry even holds more intrigue for me than it did back in Amerika...
One thing that does not fascinate me with the mundane, though, is the state of my houseplants. I've never had to deal with caring for (house)plants. In Hawaii they just flourish, unless they are a rare breed of orchid that takes some more non-commital commitment. Seriously though, orchids are THE MOST tempramental of plants to attempt to shower with love. You basically have to ignore them for them to flourish. All the sudden one day you look in the dark corner where you stuck the orchid plant to recover in ICU and BOOM it's blooming!!! When did that happen? So yea, my houseplants are fussy right now. Not enough sunlight? Too cold? Not enough water? Inside? Outside today? WTF DO YOU WANT FROM ME??? Arghhhhhhhh. But I persist in trying to diagnose their problems. I'm looking at them right now- all frumpy and giving me this passive-aggressive 'vibe'.
I was inspired yesterday to make Apple Cobbler- based on a recipe that I barely remember assisting with for New Year's... I had to put myself back in that state of mind I was in at the time to sort it all out... Turns out I was able to successfully achieve that state and reproduce a decent quality homemade munchies snack.. Drank the remainder of Malibu Rum in the process as well.
Loads of laundry this weekend AND I'm even cold-water soaking all my wool and cashmere sweaters! I know, can't get more titillating than explaining this folks (*yawn*). There is a zen art that I have discovered when hanging clothes to dry on the clothes-horse thingy. I get absolute pleasure from this experience. It really derives out of necessity: how to hang clothes to dry just so perfect that one doesn't have to iron them afterwards... This is end goal here.
In other news, I cleaned off my kitchen counter complete with anti-bacterial medicines... Even had to burn some Nag Champa incense to cover up the medicinal explosion. I suppose I won't discuss the loo cleaning this morning, but I did that too.
For entertainment talk-story I will divulge that I am currently absorbed in watching all the original "Pink Panther" series that Blake Edwards directed with such movie-star greats as David Niven, Elke Sommer, Peter Sellers, etc... I never thought anything about Robert Wagner before, but he sure was hot when he was young... Stupid funny stuff that seems enchanting while experiencing a mildly cold Southeastern Turkish winter. I also watched the first episode of "Little Mosque on the Prairie"- which is hilarious and I highly suggest it to all friends back home.
I'm looking for some interesting books to buy in Portugal so if any of you have any titles of stuff you think I should read, let me know. As well, any apps I should know about.
Weather Ping Pong here this winter. Where is all the bloody snow? I have this increased fascination with winter clothing and enjoy amassing this type of garb. I can't figure it out- especially as I should be in a warmer place living... I can't help but think that in the back of my mind I'll need winter wear if I move to Cappadocia... Well, where to live next in Turkey is another consideration I'm considering. I mean, if I'm going to live in a cold area, I need to be snowboarding. This is ridiculous right now. So close, yet so far... And why is it so damn expensive to snowboard here? Okay, who reading this post knows someone with a ski resort here in Turkey. Hook a girl up... What about Kayseri? Must be some damn good skiing on Erciyes, no? What about cross-country skiing? Do peeps do that here? Where do you get the equipment? Snowshoes? Nothing like a good snowshoe expedition through the forest.
Okay I'm tiring of this. I'm thinking of doing a reconnaissance survey of my closet and check out all the luscious clothes of mine that I have here that I can't wear here. This includes shoes/boots as well.
looking for my own little paradise on this side of the planet...
A perfect gloomy day to traipse around the neighborhood and eat a superb Sunday brunch- incomplete, of course, because of the absence of mimosas. Of course, I'm all about finding solutions to problems these days... I'm resourceful. My day has morphed into a 'clean the apartment' afternoon. Whenever I get ready to go on an odyssey I like to start with a clean house upon return.
So I found myself a tailor! Tailor Mehmet downtown near the kale. Awesome man. Somehow we managed to communicate that I want a pencil skirt made from an exact pattern that I have. We went to the fabric store yesterday afternoon (fabric PORN I swear!). What a wonderland fabric stores here in Turkey. It was pure ecstasy. I wanted to savor the experience. Nothing like touching every bolt of fabric of the right weight, color & texture. AWESOME!!!
Can't describe anymore to you all without becoming obscene how much I enjoyed the experience. Check that one off the list now- personal tailor in Turkey. After the pencil skirt, I plan on taking a few more trousers to him as well... I can see this will become a new addiction for me. Surprisingly cheap as well. Perhaps by next year I will have myself my own sewing machine so I can do it myself. I miss my sewing machine. I hope Katie-girl is having a good time with it.
It seems this post is going to be filled with the most mundane of things, but I figure that for all you guys reading back home, it might be terribly fascinating. Honestly, just going to the grocery store still holds fascination for myself down here. Folding laundry even holds more intrigue for me than it did back in Amerika...
One thing that does not fascinate me with the mundane, though, is the state of my houseplants. I've never had to deal with caring for (house)plants. In Hawaii they just flourish, unless they are a rare breed of orchid that takes some more non-commital commitment. Seriously though, orchids are THE MOST tempramental of plants to attempt to shower with love. You basically have to ignore them for them to flourish. All the sudden one day you look in the dark corner where you stuck the orchid plant to recover in ICU and BOOM it's blooming!!! When did that happen? So yea, my houseplants are fussy right now. Not enough sunlight? Too cold? Not enough water? Inside? Outside today? WTF DO YOU WANT FROM ME??? Arghhhhhhhh. But I persist in trying to diagnose their problems. I'm looking at them right now- all frumpy and giving me this passive-aggressive 'vibe'.
I was inspired yesterday to make Apple Cobbler- based on a recipe that I barely remember assisting with for New Year's... I had to put myself back in that state of mind I was in at the time to sort it all out... Turns out I was able to successfully achieve that state and reproduce a decent quality homemade munchies snack.. Drank the remainder of Malibu Rum in the process as well.
Loads of laundry this weekend AND I'm even cold-water soaking all my wool and cashmere sweaters! I know, can't get more titillating than explaining this folks (*yawn*). There is a zen art that I have discovered when hanging clothes to dry on the clothes-horse thingy. I get absolute pleasure from this experience. It really derives out of necessity: how to hang clothes to dry just so perfect that one doesn't have to iron them afterwards... This is end goal here.
In other news, I cleaned off my kitchen counter complete with anti-bacterial medicines... Even had to burn some Nag Champa incense to cover up the medicinal explosion. I suppose I won't discuss the loo cleaning this morning, but I did that too.
For entertainment talk-story I will divulge that I am currently absorbed in watching all the original "Pink Panther" series that Blake Edwards directed with such movie-star greats as David Niven, Elke Sommer, Peter Sellers, etc... I never thought anything about Robert Wagner before, but he sure was hot when he was young... Stupid funny stuff that seems enchanting while experiencing a mildly cold Southeastern Turkish winter. I also watched the first episode of "Little Mosque on the Prairie"- which is hilarious and I highly suggest it to all friends back home.
I'm looking for some interesting books to buy in Portugal so if any of you have any titles of stuff you think I should read, let me know. As well, any apps I should know about.
Weather Ping Pong here this winter. Where is all the bloody snow? I have this increased fascination with winter clothing and enjoy amassing this type of garb. I can't figure it out- especially as I should be in a warmer place living... I can't help but think that in the back of my mind I'll need winter wear if I move to Cappadocia... Well, where to live next in Turkey is another consideration I'm considering. I mean, if I'm going to live in a cold area, I need to be snowboarding. This is ridiculous right now. So close, yet so far... And why is it so damn expensive to snowboard here? Okay, who reading this post knows someone with a ski resort here in Turkey. Hook a girl up... What about Kayseri? Must be some damn good skiing on Erciyes, no? What about cross-country skiing? Do peeps do that here? Where do you get the equipment? Snowshoes? Nothing like a good snowshoe expedition through the forest.
Okay I'm tiring of this. I'm thinking of doing a reconnaissance survey of my closet and check out all the luscious clothes of mine that I have here that I can't wear here. This includes shoes/boots as well.
looking for my own little paradise on this side of the planet...
1.05.2013
How many 'beats per minute' is your comfort zone?
Sunday morning statistsics: freshly showered, back in bed, coffee in hand, cozy apartment inside, whiteout/low ground fog outside with a chance of snow threatening... What else... let me see. What am I forgetting? Oh yes, the BIG protest happening in downtown Gaziantep this afternoon protesting NATO & the Patriot missiles that are our new neighbors...
Yes, how could I have forgotten. Of course Solo_ojo and myself are curious (as we were in Tunisia as well)... AND Settar's lovely rambling villa is just oh-so-close to Demokrasi Meydani... At any rate, we are heading to Settar's for some breakfast and a little something something in the coffee. Ahhhhh it's so great to have the weekends to flee this 'normalacy' of living here.I have a rather restless beat here in Gaziantep...
But I digress- back to today's protest du jour. As an anthropologist, it is nearly (entirely) impossible to ignore this gathering. I mean, I have to go. What is unfortunate is that the world of protesting seems two-fold these days; to have turned into this reason for bored peeps to go and cause trouble. I can already envision the kids there that will be throwing rocks at 'the others' not knowing why they are doing so. It's a rite-of-passage of sorts perhaps? A topic of conversation at school the following day? Well, most certainly the topic of conversations at school, any school, will not be homework or reading for pleasure...
I'm not really sure what this post is about yet, but I see a trend here, so I will continue on... Yesterday morning I went to the local mall here (ugh), Sanko Park. We went early because we didn't want to witness loads of people mindlessly spending their money on crap made in China- well I did anyway. We went to the 11:00 am showing of "Life of Pi". How wonderful a job Ang Lee did directing the movie. Fantastical images that I conjured up while reading this book 6 years ago sequestered away in a (then fairly remote) valley called Kabak on the Aegean, well they were delivered onscreen with the movie adaptation. My point (I think) being that upon entering the mall at 10:30 am on a Saturday morning was like seeing an empty nest, and heading out of the theatre at 1:30 pm was like witnessing a bad dream of people just taking their money and lighting it afire. It was so crowded and it was like zombie-land. I mean, I get quasi-infected with the spirit as well when I put myself in the situation- which is why I never put myself in the situation to go to Sanko Park I guess. Admittedly, I have a tast for things which generally aren't made in China... unfortunately this means I spend more money.
So it's the new year according to the Gregorian Calendar. This means out with the old and in with the new? Sometimes. I know I've been infected with this spirit and the wheels are spinning. There is so much in motion inside my cranium at this time, but I'm not ready to let it go, or flow from my keyboard onto any documentation just yet... I will happily 'assume the position' and continue on my journey until... Portugal!
Yes, as any expat knows, vacations are essential to our sanity. Of course this is the case anywhere, but it's especially important when living abroad I have decided. It's so necessary to get out of one's head. As a (at this time) single entity, vacations are key because it's just you- you get to decide anything and everything. Not your family, not your work, not time- just you. ~You make the rules, and this is awesome. So soon I put on my backpack and throw my Canadian Goose Down sleeping bag inside (affectionately coined "my husband" by Major Pain") and go.
Where I sleep, I don't care. I want the ocean. I want the ocean to fill me with currents that have traveled the world only to crash on the beach that I will sleep on. Well, it is wintertime, and it will be cold so it's likely I won't be doing this every evening... Doesn't matter. I follow a different beat.
My only concern is that of my love for... BOOTS! I know I won't be able to get away without discovering a pair of must-obtain boots. There are a few other items on my list, but most I won't be able to take away with me. As a side note, my favorite pair of boots have been recently purchased right here in SE Turkey in Karamanmarash.
Back to following a different beat. I always have. It didn't matter back on Maui about this beat because everybody was on similar beats as mine. Here it is quite different. Many peeps doesn't know how to react to my beat. You also have to realize that you can't change anyone else's beat. With this in mind, you don't even want to. Everyone moves at their own tempo as it's called a 'comfort zone' and just respect and it's all good. What is respect is the question? Everyone also has a different attitude about respect. Normal, right? Anyway, I dig my beats.
Sometimes the beat is lost, and you have to find your way back. Sometimes you have to make adjustments to compensate for a lost rhythm, or dropped beat. Sometimes when you get outta your mind, you realize you were living according to someone else's beat, and that you don't really enjoy that beat on a continual basis. It's a cacophony of dead beats according to you. When this happens, it's a fine line. You can either just turn the volume down and continue to be quasi-bothered by this beat, or you need to run. Run with it with precious knowledge that you will in fact get back to your style of rhythm. Ahhhhh yes, go for it! I'm going for it! I found my beat again! This beat needs to be nurtured by all that is amazing and spiritual and mysterious and and and...
Onward. Time to make a move out of the beat of this bed- this warm, comfort zone where the most amazing coffee is served. Time to beat it, pick up the tempo and start thinking about heading downtown where I will witness folks of yet a different beat. A beat I am curious about. A beat unfamiliar to me in a sense, but I understand the beat. A beat I want to know more about. It is the beat of human will that fights for its right to demonstrate (hopefully) peacefully against things out of their individual controls, yet collectively gains strength in beat. I expect a heightened BPM today.
over and out
Yes, how could I have forgotten. Of course Solo_ojo and myself are curious (as we were in Tunisia as well)... AND Settar's lovely rambling villa is just oh-so-close to Demokrasi Meydani... At any rate, we are heading to Settar's for some breakfast and a little something something in the coffee. Ahhhhh it's so great to have the weekends to flee this 'normalacy' of living here.I have a rather restless beat here in Gaziantep...
But I digress- back to today's protest du jour. As an anthropologist, it is nearly (entirely) impossible to ignore this gathering. I mean, I have to go. What is unfortunate is that the world of protesting seems two-fold these days; to have turned into this reason for bored peeps to go and cause trouble. I can already envision the kids there that will be throwing rocks at 'the others' not knowing why they are doing so. It's a rite-of-passage of sorts perhaps? A topic of conversation at school the following day? Well, most certainly the topic of conversations at school, any school, will not be homework or reading for pleasure...
I'm not really sure what this post is about yet, but I see a trend here, so I will continue on... Yesterday morning I went to the local mall here (ugh), Sanko Park. We went early because we didn't want to witness loads of people mindlessly spending their money on crap made in China- well I did anyway. We went to the 11:00 am showing of "Life of Pi". How wonderful a job Ang Lee did directing the movie. Fantastical images that I conjured up while reading this book 6 years ago sequestered away in a (then fairly remote) valley called Kabak on the Aegean, well they were delivered onscreen with the movie adaptation. My point (I think) being that upon entering the mall at 10:30 am on a Saturday morning was like seeing an empty nest, and heading out of the theatre at 1:30 pm was like witnessing a bad dream of people just taking their money and lighting it afire. It was so crowded and it was like zombie-land. I mean, I get quasi-infected with the spirit as well when I put myself in the situation- which is why I never put myself in the situation to go to Sanko Park I guess. Admittedly, I have a tast for things which generally aren't made in China... unfortunately this means I spend more money.
So it's the new year according to the Gregorian Calendar. This means out with the old and in with the new? Sometimes. I know I've been infected with this spirit and the wheels are spinning. There is so much in motion inside my cranium at this time, but I'm not ready to let it go, or flow from my keyboard onto any documentation just yet... I will happily 'assume the position' and continue on my journey until... Portugal!
Yes, as any expat knows, vacations are essential to our sanity. Of course this is the case anywhere, but it's especially important when living abroad I have decided. It's so necessary to get out of one's head. As a (at this time) single entity, vacations are key because it's just you- you get to decide anything and everything. Not your family, not your work, not time- just you. ~You make the rules, and this is awesome. So soon I put on my backpack and throw my Canadian Goose Down sleeping bag inside (affectionately coined "my husband" by Major Pain") and go.
Where I sleep, I don't care. I want the ocean. I want the ocean to fill me with currents that have traveled the world only to crash on the beach that I will sleep on. Well, it is wintertime, and it will be cold so it's likely I won't be doing this every evening... Doesn't matter. I follow a different beat.
My only concern is that of my love for... BOOTS! I know I won't be able to get away without discovering a pair of must-obtain boots. There are a few other items on my list, but most I won't be able to take away with me. As a side note, my favorite pair of boots have been recently purchased right here in SE Turkey in Karamanmarash.
Back to following a different beat. I always have. It didn't matter back on Maui about this beat because everybody was on similar beats as mine. Here it is quite different. Many peeps doesn't know how to react to my beat. You also have to realize that you can't change anyone else's beat. With this in mind, you don't even want to. Everyone moves at their own tempo as it's called a 'comfort zone' and just respect and it's all good. What is respect is the question? Everyone also has a different attitude about respect. Normal, right? Anyway, I dig my beats.
Sometimes the beat is lost, and you have to find your way back. Sometimes you have to make adjustments to compensate for a lost rhythm, or dropped beat. Sometimes when you get outta your mind, you realize you were living according to someone else's beat, and that you don't really enjoy that beat on a continual basis. It's a cacophony of dead beats according to you. When this happens, it's a fine line. You can either just turn the volume down and continue to be quasi-bothered by this beat, or you need to run. Run with it with precious knowledge that you will in fact get back to your style of rhythm. Ahhhhh yes, go for it! I'm going for it! I found my beat again! This beat needs to be nurtured by all that is amazing and spiritual and mysterious and and and...
Onward. Time to make a move out of the beat of this bed- this warm, comfort zone where the most amazing coffee is served. Time to beat it, pick up the tempo and start thinking about heading downtown where I will witness folks of yet a different beat. A beat I am curious about. A beat unfamiliar to me in a sense, but I understand the beat. A beat I want to know more about. It is the beat of human will that fights for its right to demonstrate (hopefully) peacefully against things out of their individual controls, yet collectively gains strength in beat. I expect a heightened BPM today.
over and out
12.21.2012
2112 Yep... still here
...and the last time I checked, today, so was my student loan debt. Alas, Plan B, which was Plan A all along: work like a dog and pay it off...
Ordinary evening on this much deserved Aloha Friday here in the Fertile Crescent. Requisite de-stress routine pau hana quitting time back at the apartment, dinner w/da boyz at our new fav spot here in 'better-than-decent' restaurant row that has in the past few months spawned a slew of fairly cool, low-key eateries.
People watching was quite to my enjoyment this evening as well. Some folks that were very easy on the eyes if you catch my drift. What is happening in this Universitesi mahallesi (neighborhood) of Gaziantep in the past few months? It's a noticeable improvement in atmosphere. There is literally a tri-fecta of new restaurants within 150 meters from my apartment building. And a real coffee joint, apparently as I haven't indulged yet since my coffee is the best in town-especially on the weekends...
I'm glad we're all still here actually. I mean, I've built up quite the wardrobe in the past decade, and with the addition to winter wear, well it's complete. Except for boots. More boots. I need more boots. I'm mad about boots. Thank the Mayans for that. To celebrate the lack of apocalyptic behavior, I will celebrate life by purchasing an exquisite pair of... yep you guessed it- BOOTS in Portugal. I just love a European downtown shopping district with a mission!
Only 2 more hours left in this day. Like every other day at this time. Whatever. I still hear the neighbor chicks being loud and obnoxious w/their squeaky voices. I still take my trash out- that is when Warden Woodie slacks on his duties. I will still go through my bouts of listening to crap 90s music when I get in 'those' moods. I will continue to hope that suddenly hip Gaziantep births a tri-fecta of super-healers: acupuncturist/masseuse/chiropractor.
If I'm not making sense to you, you don't know me really well likely. That's alright. Plenty of time now. Ima just hang here in the Fertile Crescent and chill the f*ck out. The next cataclysmic event is prolly not 'scheduled' to happen for a while. Please refresh my memory if this is incorrect. Am I missing something? There is nothing on my iCal to suggest otherwise anyway...
Okay it is officially Aloha Friday NIGHT. Let the shenanigans begin and continue throughout the weekend.
PS- I'm sorry to report that I'm still not proofing these posts. I do miss my editor-at-large dearly. He kept me in check... RIP lil Kolohe K Kitty Kat, aka Jackie Love.
Ordinary evening on this much deserved Aloha Friday here in the Fertile Crescent. Requisite de-stress routine pau hana quitting time back at the apartment, dinner w/da boyz at our new fav spot here in 'better-than-decent' restaurant row that has in the past few months spawned a slew of fairly cool, low-key eateries.
People watching was quite to my enjoyment this evening as well. Some folks that were very easy on the eyes if you catch my drift. What is happening in this Universitesi mahallesi (neighborhood) of Gaziantep in the past few months? It's a noticeable improvement in atmosphere. There is literally a tri-fecta of new restaurants within 150 meters from my apartment building. And a real coffee joint, apparently as I haven't indulged yet since my coffee is the best in town-especially on the weekends...
I'm glad we're all still here actually. I mean, I've built up quite the wardrobe in the past decade, and with the addition to winter wear, well it's complete. Except for boots. More boots. I need more boots. I'm mad about boots. Thank the Mayans for that. To celebrate the lack of apocalyptic behavior, I will celebrate life by purchasing an exquisite pair of... yep you guessed it- BOOTS in Portugal. I just love a European downtown shopping district with a mission!
Only 2 more hours left in this day. Like every other day at this time. Whatever. I still hear the neighbor chicks being loud and obnoxious w/their squeaky voices. I still take my trash out- that is when Warden Woodie slacks on his duties. I will still go through my bouts of listening to crap 90s music when I get in 'those' moods. I will continue to hope that suddenly hip Gaziantep births a tri-fecta of super-healers: acupuncturist/masseuse/chiropractor.
If I'm not making sense to you, you don't know me really well likely. That's alright. Plenty of time now. Ima just hang here in the Fertile Crescent and chill the f*ck out. The next cataclysmic event is prolly not 'scheduled' to happen for a while. Please refresh my memory if this is incorrect. Am I missing something? There is nothing on my iCal to suggest otherwise anyway...
Okay it is officially Aloha Friday NIGHT. Let the shenanigans begin and continue throughout the weekend.
PS- I'm sorry to report that I'm still not proofing these posts. I do miss my editor-at-large dearly. He kept me in check... RIP lil Kolohe K Kitty Kat, aka Jackie Love.
12.18.2012
testing 1, 2, 3. testing
With the recent first snowfall of the season, I’ve started
to preoccupy myself with thoughts of snow. Logical. Now, I don’t have much
experience in snow or living in places where it snows so I’m a bit of a
neophyte. What I do enjoy about it is how the ordinary landscape scenery morphs
into some kind of wonderland. I mean, even Gaziantep appears ‘mystical’ when
viewed with snow-cover…
Gaziantep also appears ‘mystical’ to me when I think of its
ancient history, but that is another matter entirely. Gaziantep mostly just appears… ordinary to
me. Ordinary in the sense that, let’s be honest, it’s not a really pretty area.
It’s not the mountains and it’s not the beach. The landscape is just ordinary.
What is extraordinary to me, when I’m in my office at work looking out the
window to the south from the 5th floor is the view- unimpeded
rolling hills straight to Syria, which is involved in a shitstorm of human
rights violations right now.
But I digress. This is supposed to be a happy blog post
where I keep to the weather report, as well as my esoteria thoughts which some
of you get and perhaps many of you can’t even begin to piece my abstract
thoughts together into a logical puzzle.
Anyhow… uhm yea. The weather. So, all this snow has put me in the mood
for 2 things: a semi-deserted beach (populated with my own storyville
characters that I have exquisitely brewed up in my alternate reality world
complete with names and even pet names) OR going snowboarding. I feel I should
make use of all this snow that is surely to continue to fall, right?
Even though I am a snow-neophyte, I have been able to spend
quality time in some of the best snow resorts in the world. Most precious on this list includes
snowboarding in the Andes of both Argentina and Chile. Vancouver also ranks on the list (a bit
slushy, but what views from mountain to ocean. As does the Snowy Mountains in
Australia (well, you can’t see the ocean from that vantage point, but it was
still lovely). As does Alaska. What a great ego-booster mountain to snowboard
Alyeska is! As is various parts of
Amerika. I will even include that silly little Hunter Mountain just outside of
New York City a few hours.
I’d like to add Turkey to this list. This year seems like
the likely year. It’s unfortunate that I have 2 sets of board gear in 2
separate states in a country far, far away… Anyway, if any of you phantom
readers (that refuse to identify yourselves properly by officially following my
blog…) are from Turkey and have knowledge of snow parks here, let me know your
opinions.
Erzerum is high on my
list. I suppose just for the novelty.
The place (city?) seems enshourded in mystery. It is like an ice-city perhaps in the
wintertime as it seems the coldest temperatures come from there. I know there is a quaint little ski resort
there. Yes, this sounds sweet. Sweet meaning that you don’t have to wait 20
minutes in the chairlift line to get back up the mountain like you have to do
in many places.
Kayseri holds some intrigue as well. Perhaps mainly because it is so close to Göreme- which I love, and have
spotted some seriously handsome men residing in… So there is that. I assume
that there are a few ski areas there and nearby.
What is odd, though, is that nobody talks about these
places. They exist. Do locals go there? Do ex-pats go there? Who
skis/snowboards in this country? I don’t recall anyone at work talking about
going skiing. I don’t recall any of my Istanbul friends talking about going
boarding. So, here lies the mystery of who is populating these mountains of fun.
Speaking of fun, I do hope there are powder days at these places. Nothing
better than wiping out in feather-light fluff!
So, I will conduct some investigations and create an
action-research plan accordingly complete with a reconnaissance survey. Implementing
a data recovery plan would be the icing on the cake… Perhaps in
Cappadocia?
Something that goes well with snow is apres snowboard
session cocktails at the lodge. Sitting
amongst other ‘pleasantly exhausted from tearing up the slopes friends’ is just
plain awesome. Everybody is exhausted, exhilirated, telling tall tales of epic
adventures of snow-surfing down near-vertical faces of untracked mountains. In
reality this means I successfully didn’t fall while warily traversing a ‘Blue
Diamond’ labeled run…
People watching is always a thrill while partaking in adult
libations at said lodge. Seriously, who can frown after a day on the mountain.
Everybody looks shiny and beautiful and glowing from an inner knowledge that
hanging out in nature and exercising ROCKS. Anyway, I’ll stop here before this
becomes x-rated…
But of course, there is also the tales of the ‘infamous
hottub party’ apres ski as well. You know, you see the picture all the time in
rated R B-grade Hollywood movies that center around colleges and frathouses,
etc. Well, it happens in the real world as well. With very similar results too-
usually, or not… Again, I’m trying to keep this rated R so I stop here.
In conclusion, the
‘big day’ is coming in a little over 48 hours.
Yes, I’m talking THE Mayan prophecy.
What does this mean, I ask myself. I’d like to think that the only thing
erased from the face of this Planet Earth is my graduate student loan debt.
Yea. I said it. I’m actually fantacizing about it. Well, actually racists can disappear too. And
gun-totting cray-crays. And shitty politicians. And shitty dictators. And all
the fast food joints. And dis-ease. Blah blah blah. You get the picture.
Well, it’s not snowing at the moment. All the rain has made for a slushy mush.
Cold, wet slushy mush. You know what goes really well with cold, wet slushy
mush? Peppermint Schnapps Hot Chocolate, that’s what. Do I have any? No. You know what went well with
snowfall last night? Tequila. That’s right folks, tequila. Just 1 shot mind
you. Girlfriends, cats, tequila and snowfall. That was my quad-fecta last
night. I just thought I’d mention that…
12.12.2012
12/12/12
12/12/12
Nearing the end of the day here in the Fertile Crescent. The day progressed as anticipated- meaning that it was business as usual. I'm not one to talk about work in this blog because… well, it's work. I can say, though, that in the past (my archaeological past), I adored discussing work. Mostly because work was pretty fascinating. We're talking ARCHAEOLOGY here. The coolness factor cannot be expressed enough. That's all imma gonna say about that…
Since we're nearing the end of the year, as well as the supposedly ending of the world as per some ancient Mayan prophecy, and this is the time to reflect. So… here goes:
I'm on my 2nd year here in G-tep. It's an interesting enough place to dwell for some time. It's certainly given me plenty of time to… to… well, there is plenty to mention… Anyway, the end result is that everything that happens- well it happens for a reason. My 2nd year here is for a reason or two. I am starting to yearn for a few things… quality organic produce, health supplements, alternative medical practices such as acupuncture, massage and chiropractors, a real yoga outlet. If I was feeling really smarmy (which I might currently indeed be), I'd have to include a beach, surf and beach boys/toys. This is the tipping point…
Luckily a much-deserved break is coming up in Jan/Feb. I'm so outta here for some RandR. Where? Portugal! We will cruise the country in only that style that the most devoted travel aficionados (with little $) can do…we're going to enjoy the shit out of that country and all that it has to offer- which is vast in terms of my likes and desires…
NOTE: haha just when I'm planning my escape something random happens: a quite large fireworks display in the middle of the week (Wednesday evening 8:30 pm) for no apparent reason than just that. Perhaps it's to celebrate 12/12/12… It's stuff like this that makes it interesting here. Yes, I focus on the little things here that keep me going...
So high on the list for Portugal is checking out boots, food, wine, Fado, architecture, hunks, surf, art, sunsets over the ocean, sunrises after a night out, nightlife, mayhem and other such shenanigans that I so love and (mostly) cannot indulge in over here.
Yea, there is nothing like the feeling of hopping on an international flight, popping a vitamin and ordering alcoholic beverages to get to that mellow spot and sit back and watch the kilometers fly by… Oh I guess I can include the duty free shopping in Paris @ Charles De Gaule airport. This has taken on a new level of awesome for me since I found where they stock the ginormous marscapone chocolate bars. AND Paris Vogue. It has to go in tandem, those two items.
So, my miles have been accruing pretty rapidly in past years living abroad. Must say though that the ticket back to Hawaii (from anywhere really) IS NOT CHEAP… Luckily it's a bene that keeps on giving. On the flip side, going anywhere from Turkey, and Tunisia before that, requires the dreaded currency exchange… Definitely not a been… That really sucks in fact. Cup half full theory: more free air tickets faster!
I can also reflect on the weather. I'm used to it by now, but it is not ideal. Too many extremes- yet this is the case for much of the world I suppose. Harsh reality after living in paradise I suppose. Now when I realize I am complaining too much, I always like to remind myself of the 'cup half full' theory so… cold weather = BOOTS. Lots and lots of gorgeous boots. I mean, you can NEVER have too many pairs of boots if you live in an area with cold winters. I adore this half full cup indeed. In fact, I have to stop myself from thinking about the pair of boots I will discover in Portugal…
I am boot-obsessed for sure. A quickie trip to Karamanmarash a few weeks ago left me pining over a pair of boots. Not for long though. I spy quickly, as did my travel partner. I saw them through the window. I came in. I explored further. I delved into unknown territory. I experimented. I purchased. I smiled. They are a beautiful pair of dark green suede 'Outback' ankle boots with a low heel. Who would have thought? I mean, Karamanmarash? Geeze. SCORE!
Last year was a kickass pair of blue suede high heel ankle booties. I mean HOT. I don't wear them often, but they look HOT in my closet even… All this- this is coming from a chick that possesses at least 13 pairs of slippers- all nicely distributed between various cities (Istanbul, Iron Mtn, Portland, Tunis, Ashland, NYC, Hawaii- in a few different locations) and here in G-tep where I possess 4 pairs of coveted Havaianas. Each pair, mind you, has a different purpose…
I really had no idea this post would morph into a shoe fetish tirade, but it did. I'll just end here right now. At this point in my writing stage, I honestly have no control over what ink I eek out on my blog. Nor do I care really. I'm amused and that is what matters really I suppose. I'm trying to provide an honest, interesting insight into my psyche here. This is just me and in my life, Every Day is a Hollyday!!!
Nearing the end of the day here in the Fertile Crescent. The day progressed as anticipated- meaning that it was business as usual. I'm not one to talk about work in this blog because… well, it's work. I can say, though, that in the past (my archaeological past), I adored discussing work. Mostly because work was pretty fascinating. We're talking ARCHAEOLOGY here. The coolness factor cannot be expressed enough. That's all imma gonna say about that…
Since we're nearing the end of the year, as well as the supposedly ending of the world as per some ancient Mayan prophecy, and this is the time to reflect. So… here goes:
I'm on my 2nd year here in G-tep. It's an interesting enough place to dwell for some time. It's certainly given me plenty of time to… to… well, there is plenty to mention… Anyway, the end result is that everything that happens- well it happens for a reason. My 2nd year here is for a reason or two. I am starting to yearn for a few things… quality organic produce, health supplements, alternative medical practices such as acupuncture, massage and chiropractors, a real yoga outlet. If I was feeling really smarmy (which I might currently indeed be), I'd have to include a beach, surf and beach boys/toys. This is the tipping point…
Luckily a much-deserved break is coming up in Jan/Feb. I'm so outta here for some RandR. Where? Portugal! We will cruise the country in only that style that the most devoted travel aficionados (with little $) can do…we're going to enjoy the shit out of that country and all that it has to offer- which is vast in terms of my likes and desires…
NOTE: haha just when I'm planning my escape something random happens: a quite large fireworks display in the middle of the week (Wednesday evening 8:30 pm) for no apparent reason than just that. Perhaps it's to celebrate 12/12/12… It's stuff like this that makes it interesting here. Yes, I focus on the little things here that keep me going...
So high on the list for Portugal is checking out boots, food, wine, Fado, architecture, hunks, surf, art, sunsets over the ocean, sunrises after a night out, nightlife, mayhem and other such shenanigans that I so love and (mostly) cannot indulge in over here.
Yea, there is nothing like the feeling of hopping on an international flight, popping a vitamin and ordering alcoholic beverages to get to that mellow spot and sit back and watch the kilometers fly by… Oh I guess I can include the duty free shopping in Paris @ Charles De Gaule airport. This has taken on a new level of awesome for me since I found where they stock the ginormous marscapone chocolate bars. AND Paris Vogue. It has to go in tandem, those two items.
So, my miles have been accruing pretty rapidly in past years living abroad. Must say though that the ticket back to Hawaii (from anywhere really) IS NOT CHEAP… Luckily it's a bene that keeps on giving. On the flip side, going anywhere from Turkey, and Tunisia before that, requires the dreaded currency exchange… Definitely not a been… That really sucks in fact. Cup half full theory: more free air tickets faster!
I can also reflect on the weather. I'm used to it by now, but it is not ideal. Too many extremes- yet this is the case for much of the world I suppose. Harsh reality after living in paradise I suppose. Now when I realize I am complaining too much, I always like to remind myself of the 'cup half full' theory so… cold weather = BOOTS. Lots and lots of gorgeous boots. I mean, you can NEVER have too many pairs of boots if you live in an area with cold winters. I adore this half full cup indeed. In fact, I have to stop myself from thinking about the pair of boots I will discover in Portugal…
I am boot-obsessed for sure. A quickie trip to Karamanmarash a few weeks ago left me pining over a pair of boots. Not for long though. I spy quickly, as did my travel partner. I saw them through the window. I came in. I explored further. I delved into unknown territory. I experimented. I purchased. I smiled. They are a beautiful pair of dark green suede 'Outback' ankle boots with a low heel. Who would have thought? I mean, Karamanmarash? Geeze. SCORE!
Last year was a kickass pair of blue suede high heel ankle booties. I mean HOT. I don't wear them often, but they look HOT in my closet even… All this- this is coming from a chick that possesses at least 13 pairs of slippers- all nicely distributed between various cities (Istanbul, Iron Mtn, Portland, Tunis, Ashland, NYC, Hawaii- in a few different locations) and here in G-tep where I possess 4 pairs of coveted Havaianas. Each pair, mind you, has a different purpose…
I really had no idea this post would morph into a shoe fetish tirade, but it did. I'll just end here right now. At this point in my writing stage, I honestly have no control over what ink I eek out on my blog. Nor do I care really. I'm amused and that is what matters really I suppose. I'm trying to provide an honest, interesting insight into my psyche here. This is just me and in my life, Every Day is a Hollyday!!!
12.09.2012
Sunday morning Feline Fine...
Relaxing in bed with french press coffee. I've already communicated with Hawaii, Portugal, and elsewhere in Turkey. It's a cold, cloudy, misty morning here- completely opposite from yesterday. Ping Pong weather continues here in the Fertile Crescent as of late. I somehow managed to get outta bed early this am and hit the running trail at Gaziantep University. I was all alone- meaning no dogs chasing me...
The intoxicating smell of pine cones hit me like a wall. Must say that it's a great high. I hope I can continue on this path, but it is getting seriously cold now. The kind of cold where your ears hurt when running cold. Still, it seems this year is strange in that it is still considered to be so warm- unlike last year where buckets of rain fell throughout fall/winter, accompanied by loads of snowfall...
Yesterday I got my creative fire started and immersed myself in a nerdy DIY T-shirt re-structuring. I had some friends over my apartment that partook in the process. I think they were fascinated of the world known as 'crafty chicks.' Anyway, they watched with amusement. Both were secretly impressed and, likely, wanted to get their 'crafty dude' phase on...
Okay, that's it. I'm off track now...
One last thing- the sky today is the perfect gradation of grays
The intoxicating smell of pine cones hit me like a wall. Must say that it's a great high. I hope I can continue on this path, but it is getting seriously cold now. The kind of cold where your ears hurt when running cold. Still, it seems this year is strange in that it is still considered to be so warm- unlike last year where buckets of rain fell throughout fall/winter, accompanied by loads of snowfall...
Yesterday I got my creative fire started and immersed myself in a nerdy DIY T-shirt re-structuring. I had some friends over my apartment that partook in the process. I think they were fascinated of the world known as 'crafty chicks.' Anyway, they watched with amusement. Both were secretly impressed and, likely, wanted to get their 'crafty dude' phase on...
Okay, that's it. I'm off track now...
One last thing- the sky today is the perfect gradation of grays
12.01.2012
Hollyday in Turkey
This morning is a wake-and-bake kinda morning here in the Fertile Crescent. The sun is shining. There is not a cloud in the sky and I'm on my lanai (deck) soaking up the sun like a reptile. The coffee is strong and hot and Ziggy Marley is supplying da kine tunes. The day is going to be a good one indeed...
Like all my birthdays, this one is no different really. I guess I like to think I celebrate life every day. I will say though, birthdays tend to bring discussions with oneself. This is the time I really think about my path on earth. What am I doing? Where am I going? Am I on the right path? Does it matter?
I've decided it's all about the path- not the destination. I realized this a long time ago.
NOTE: Ziggy Marley's "Everybody wants to be a Cowboy" is doing me right
Anyway, in terms of music, reggae has been the most influential in my life. When you get into the headspace, it hits you. When life is too stressful or when work is really getting to me, I sit back and turn on the tunes and tune the fuck out! It's just what the doctor ordered!
Yoga does this for me as well. No matter where I am, when I'm stressed and I stretch out, it gets better.
NOTE: "Fallen is Babylon" playing
So yesterday was a contemplative day for me. Saturday and I was illing. I somehow had gotten sick Thursday/Friday so wanted to just chill yesterday and get over the bug. Hopefully I beat it outta my system as I feel good this morning. So... I was thinking about 'my current path.' I decided that I should be fortunate I've had many career paths- from fashion to archaeology to teaching. So my wanderlust (wonderlust) took me to the internet, as it tends to do as of late.
What was I researching? PhDs in... wait for it... The Netherlands! Yea, I was all over the place yesterday. So The Netherlands is the place to study if you want your PhD. Even for international students, the government supports you. As a PhD student, you aren't a 'student' but an 'employee' of the university. The programs typically are 4 years. You are given a monthly stipend and you do research. You live, eat, breathe your department. Everybody in the program is in the same building and the spirit of discussion is emphasized. I must say, it is a very progressive interdisciplinary approach to study. I was researching the Classical Archaeology department, as well as the History of the Near East department. Who knows...
In other news, I just finished reading a book- a book I thought I was totally going to enjoy. It was like pulling teeth getting through this book, "Ararat: In Search of the Mythical Mountain." The last 2 chapters finally delved into the expedition... I'm not sure if it was because of the translation or what, but most everything seemed irrelevant. The book was all over the place- kind of like my blog, but at least you guys are not paying big bucks to read my ramblings... Anyway, I've decided I'm 'gifting' the book to Chris for New Year's... heh heh.
Now I have returned to my as of yet unfinished, "1453: The Holy War for Constantinople and The Clash of Islam and The West."
NOTE: listening to Alpha Blondie and the sun is seriously blazing right now
I feel the need to finish this book before I start the one I REALLY want to read... When I was on Kos Island this summer I picked up "The Epic of Gilgamish" and now I'm ready to dig into it... Alas I must finish my previous first...
My other big contemplation now is where to go for winter break. So far Malta is the forerunner, but Marseille, Lyon, Paris, Beirut and Poland are not far behind... I'm thinking Malta in winter will be wildly romantic; windswept and eerie. An independent country that speaks Maltese, is essentially Italian and has a North African feel!!!
NOTE: I've moved onto Black Uhuru now
Other contemplations: I notice that the mosque across the street is almost finished. I've seen the constrtuction from the beginning and it's been a fascinating journey. The (single) minaret is just now completed. I've enjoyed spending time watching the guys up on the scaffolding building it and carrying up all the cement and water with buckets on pulleys, etc... What I love most about it is the metallic silver dome roof. When the sun reflects off of it, it just dazzles. I've also noticed that the birds are fascinated with it. They form these groups and shapeshift while they circle it at sunset. I've spent countless hours enjoying this show...
I've also realized there is so much more of Turkey that I want to see. I want to check out Eskisehir as dear Agata that I met this summer at Chris' camp is an Erasmus student there. Mik went there during Bayram and the pictures look really interesting. Besides, I'm curious about what a 'college town' in Turkey really consists of... Also, there is Ani, the entire Black Sea Coast, Edirne, and some of the interior to name a few.
NOTE: "SOLIDARITY ALL OVER THE WORLD"
"What is Life" is on deck now. Alpha Blondie brings it down home, "Life is a Trip." I'm definitely 'trippin' through life right and and, I think, this makes me most happy. I know my family is happy for me- even though I'm not in constant contact. They are always with me. I feel fortunate that my entire family is quite independent. We know we love each other. 'He who feels it knows it.' My friends, old and new, are always with me on my journeys- somehow. Whether it's a piece of jewelery I'm wearing of theirs, or a memory of us I'm wearing of ours. Perhaps that's what drives me to write- the memories, that turn into thoughts that materialize in words, are like badges that I wear.
I'm not sure what the day has in store for me. Colonel KAOS and Corporal Punishment said to be ready in a half hour so...
NOTE: "Guess Who's Coming to Dinner- Natty Dreadlocks"
I just can't emphasize enough how STUNNING the weather is this morning. Gaziantep knows today is a Hollyday for sure!
NOTE: "Chill Out Chill Out Chill Out New York"
Rock on everybody because it's all good here in the Fertile Crescent today. Whatever trips we're all on- just enjoy the shit out of them.
I somehow think champagne is in my near future...
HollyMissBerry is officially signing off right about now-
Like all my birthdays, this one is no different really. I guess I like to think I celebrate life every day. I will say though, birthdays tend to bring discussions with oneself. This is the time I really think about my path on earth. What am I doing? Where am I going? Am I on the right path? Does it matter?
I've decided it's all about the path- not the destination. I realized this a long time ago.
NOTE: Ziggy Marley's "Everybody wants to be a Cowboy" is doing me right
Anyway, in terms of music, reggae has been the most influential in my life. When you get into the headspace, it hits you. When life is too stressful or when work is really getting to me, I sit back and turn on the tunes and tune the fuck out! It's just what the doctor ordered!
Yoga does this for me as well. No matter where I am, when I'm stressed and I stretch out, it gets better.
NOTE: "Fallen is Babylon" playing
So yesterday was a contemplative day for me. Saturday and I was illing. I somehow had gotten sick Thursday/Friday so wanted to just chill yesterday and get over the bug. Hopefully I beat it outta my system as I feel good this morning. So... I was thinking about 'my current path.' I decided that I should be fortunate I've had many career paths- from fashion to archaeology to teaching. So my wanderlust (wonderlust) took me to the internet, as it tends to do as of late.
What was I researching? PhDs in... wait for it... The Netherlands! Yea, I was all over the place yesterday. So The Netherlands is the place to study if you want your PhD. Even for international students, the government supports you. As a PhD student, you aren't a 'student' but an 'employee' of the university. The programs typically are 4 years. You are given a monthly stipend and you do research. You live, eat, breathe your department. Everybody in the program is in the same building and the spirit of discussion is emphasized. I must say, it is a very progressive interdisciplinary approach to study. I was researching the Classical Archaeology department, as well as the History of the Near East department. Who knows...
In other news, I just finished reading a book- a book I thought I was totally going to enjoy. It was like pulling teeth getting through this book, "Ararat: In Search of the Mythical Mountain." The last 2 chapters finally delved into the expedition... I'm not sure if it was because of the translation or what, but most everything seemed irrelevant. The book was all over the place- kind of like my blog, but at least you guys are not paying big bucks to read my ramblings... Anyway, I've decided I'm 'gifting' the book to Chris for New Year's... heh heh.
Now I have returned to my as of yet unfinished, "1453: The Holy War for Constantinople and The Clash of Islam and The West."
NOTE: listening to Alpha Blondie and the sun is seriously blazing right now
I feel the need to finish this book before I start the one I REALLY want to read... When I was on Kos Island this summer I picked up "The Epic of Gilgamish" and now I'm ready to dig into it... Alas I must finish my previous first...
My other big contemplation now is where to go for winter break. So far Malta is the forerunner, but Marseille, Lyon, Paris, Beirut and Poland are not far behind... I'm thinking Malta in winter will be wildly romantic; windswept and eerie. An independent country that speaks Maltese, is essentially Italian and has a North African feel!!!
NOTE: I've moved onto Black Uhuru now
Other contemplations: I notice that the mosque across the street is almost finished. I've seen the constrtuction from the beginning and it's been a fascinating journey. The (single) minaret is just now completed. I've enjoyed spending time watching the guys up on the scaffolding building it and carrying up all the cement and water with buckets on pulleys, etc... What I love most about it is the metallic silver dome roof. When the sun reflects off of it, it just dazzles. I've also noticed that the birds are fascinated with it. They form these groups and shapeshift while they circle it at sunset. I've spent countless hours enjoying this show...
I've also realized there is so much more of Turkey that I want to see. I want to check out Eskisehir as dear Agata that I met this summer at Chris' camp is an Erasmus student there. Mik went there during Bayram and the pictures look really interesting. Besides, I'm curious about what a 'college town' in Turkey really consists of... Also, there is Ani, the entire Black Sea Coast, Edirne, and some of the interior to name a few.
NOTE: "SOLIDARITY ALL OVER THE WORLD"
"What is Life" is on deck now. Alpha Blondie brings it down home, "Life is a Trip." I'm definitely 'trippin' through life right and and, I think, this makes me most happy. I know my family is happy for me- even though I'm not in constant contact. They are always with me. I feel fortunate that my entire family is quite independent. We know we love each other. 'He who feels it knows it.' My friends, old and new, are always with me on my journeys- somehow. Whether it's a piece of jewelery I'm wearing of theirs, or a memory of us I'm wearing of ours. Perhaps that's what drives me to write- the memories, that turn into thoughts that materialize in words, are like badges that I wear.
I'm not sure what the day has in store for me. Colonel KAOS and Corporal Punishment said to be ready in a half hour so...
NOTE: "Guess Who's Coming to Dinner- Natty Dreadlocks"
I just can't emphasize enough how STUNNING the weather is this morning. Gaziantep knows today is a Hollyday for sure!
NOTE: "Chill Out Chill Out Chill Out New York"
Rock on everybody because it's all good here in the Fertile Crescent today. Whatever trips we're all on- just enjoy the shit out of them.
I somehow think champagne is in my near future...
HollyMissBerry is officially signing off right about now-
11.23.2012
Twas the early morning twilight hours of... Thanksgiving
Bewitching Hour restlessness in the Fertile
Crescent
It’s 5 A.M. and I’ve been up since 3:30 A.M. My mind can’t
seem to stop working. Luckily it shut down for a good 5 hours earlier in the
evening so tomorrow won’t be a total blur at work. I’m not sure what keeps me
awake. Maybe it’s Thanksgiving tomorrow (today) and thoughts of being so
far away from my favorite American holiday? I know not. Maybe it’s trying to
sort through my life and my future plans? Prolly so.
It’s strange- being a world denizen. My connection to being
grounded, and my past is most definitely Hawaii, but I make new
connections as well. Every place I live and leave I have a connection with.
Sometimes it gets confusing; Do I really miss living in Tunis, or do I
just miss how strangely beautiful it was? Am I just being nostalgic about Istanbul,
or is it really the most incredible city I have been to? Do I miss the wonders
of the archaeological world, or am I just feeling blaise right now due
to circumstances that are, obviously, out of my control at my current
workplace?
..And now the 5:05 A.M. call to prayer… Funny, I have slept
through it all week, and now I listen to the strangely hypnotic melody. As I sit out on my lanai (terrace)
and view Gaziantep in the darkness I look into myself. All these
questions, but do I have answers? Do I need answers? Am I even seeking answers?
Back to the comfort of my bed, and my cozy Canadian Goose
Down sleeping bag… My thoughts wander back to work; how can I feel satisfied
that my students are merely satisfied with receiving a passing grade in class?
How do I not let it bother me that they want to become English teachers, yet
not fully understand modal verbs? How else can I convey to them that it will be
their responsibility to explain modal verbs to their future students when they
become teachers?
Since teaching in faculty I have realized that I like this
style of teaching- lecturing on specific subject content. Do I want to return
to grad school and complete a PhD? Am I experiencing PhD envy? Certainly
living in Turkey and seeing the incredible events of some of the
earliest beginnings of civilization has made my heart stir for archaeology
again…
When I was in grad school in NYC I was so happy to be going in a different direction
w/TESOL, and I still am happy because of the anthropological
connection that I feel to what I’m accomplishing in the present. But, something
inside of me is stirring- rather quietly at the moment. It’s no secret that I
miss the world of science.
This country is so amazing in that every step you take on
this land, you can feel the history- even the prehistory if you are sensitive
enough. What burnt me out with archaeology in Hawaii was the constant connect
of the past to the needs of the present and future- developers. The mysteries
unraveling from the earth were fantastic, but the constant pull of ethics
weighed hard on me. As well, so did the extremely physical manual labor.
Now that I have stepped out of that arena, though, I look
back into it. Those were my days of glory. The satisfaction of the physicalness
of it was immense. More so than with the satisfaction of finishing a day of
work at the university. But maybe I’m just romanticizing those moments with a,
currently, selective memory…
Something happened to me in Cappadocia during the
last Bayram. I saw this incredible landscape and along with this, I saw
development. The connection is strong; when you see a beautiful place, you see
tourism. With tourism you see development- increasing development. What I saw
in Cappadocia, I experienced for over 20 years in Hawaii- development going out
of control because of natural beauty and the inevitable ‘progress’ of
civilization.
Last week while I was reading the local news from my Twitter
feed, I saw 3 different articles on a major development issue in Cappadocia- Uçhisar to be exact. I don’t know
enough about the community, but I know enough to know that it’s going to be a
big, reoccurring problem for the community. The community is going to change-
because it’s so beautiful of a natural wonder. It already has-drastically since
my last visit 5 years ago. Even more so than my initial visit 11 years ago. If
the community doesn’t rise up now and protest big development… well…I hope the
community is up for an uphillbattle. They should have the power to change
things if they unite.
From what I read, there are no archaeologists required on
site during all aspects of construction- from the initial grubbing of the
surface to mass sub-surface excavation with large machinery. It’s frightening
to think what information is being lost. I would tell the local community there
that they need to be citizen-policing the construction site. I would hope that
at least the developer is a local person and/or entity so that the concerns of
the community will weigh heavy in his/their hearts.
I haven’t a clue about historic preservation laws in Turkey,
or the government’s desire and/or ability to keep large-scale development in
check with the needs of the local population. I somehow have the idea that
their stance is not as progressive as Hawaii’s though. I saw the same thing in
Hawaii: corruption, finding loopholes in county, state and Federal laws and
developers exploiting those loopholes, etc. I saw more than enough developments
go through without the proper ‘chain of command’ being taken.
Anyway, this is on my mind at 6 A.M. I should be sleeping…
My mind still wanders- to less complicated stuff though; Where should I go for
my birthday? Am I going to Kabak for New Year’s? Should I buy a bread machine?
Yes folks, this last one has been on my mind for a few weeks. So, Corporal
Punishment has a bread machine, and she makes bread every week. Lately she
hand-delivers to me freshly baked bread still warm from the oven… Not just any
bread mind you, but hearty, healthy breads that are so delicious to eat that
you don’t need to put anything on it. Anyway, I’m thinkng that a bread machine
will improve my life! See, it really is the little things in life that matter…
I think I see the first light of dawn trying to crack
through my silk curtains so I must end here and sleep for 1 more hour.
Happy Thanksgiving people! I’m eating turkey in Turkey
tonight! Yes, my Turkish friends are having a Thanksgiving soiree for us
vagabond expats. This is a wonderful thing that is what life is all about. Life
is so precious- even when you are lost in confusion and thought. There is
always something to be grateful about. I am so very grateful for my friends and
family, and to know that I can feel at home wherever I am.
*kerplunk*
oh, Happy Thanksgiving today, or tomorrow- wherever you are!
11.16.2012
some serious Jedi Mind Tricks going on down here in the Fertile Crescent tonight during the midnite hour...
Yea, subject line explains it pretty succinctly (haha).
It's the glorious end of a long, sometimes painful work week, but you know what, in the end it was great. I've come to some realizations. Most importantly that I'm not an army. Nor do I want to be an army- unless it's an army that only does battle with chocolate raspberry cake...
Anyhow... okay yes I continue on with this thought before I lose it once and for all. So, I think to myself, "just do it Holly. Just do it. Just re-adjust the kaleidoscope and let things fall into place as they tend to do if you just leave things alone and stay positive. With this in mind, it was an awesome week and I learned a lot. To boot, the weather has been fabulous. I'm almost thinking I could get in some lanai sun-soaking tomorrow (this) morning. A morning that is fast descending upon me right now in fact. I mustn't dawdle anymore. Let's get to the juice of this blog post- which wassssss....... I know I wanted to bring up Morocco- which came into my mind as I was ready to delve into my new research project. Shhhhh, but it's on a little-known (if any) archaeological site in the Cappadocia region. I'm not sure exactly as it might even be closer to Aksaray than Göreme. So this, of course, reminded me of Morocco 11 years ago...
I remember when I was on the ferry from Algeciras- at the tip of Spain and right next to Gibraltar. I had just started my journey a week before as I landed in Madrid. Hawaii to Madrid is a shock (although not as shocking as Hawaii to Antarctica I'm sure), and after a week I was freaking out and needed some open space- wanting to just have my mind blown. It was my first trip into Africa and it certainly set the pace for me- concerning the Maghreb countries anyway. The whole thing blew my mind.
My initial destination was Tangier- the main port city (I believe). I had no other plan beyond that. So on the ferry I decided I should meet up with some travelers. Immediately our motley crew was formed. Christian, the German med student/martial arts dude, was talking to ? from LA. She was moving to Fez to attend university and study Arabic language translation. Yo (real name) Kwan and I somehow drifted together and I believe we all met waiting for a taxi outside the port. So Yo Kwan's story: he was this Korean-American drag queen from.... Anyway somewhere in America. He was currently living in Paris studying to be a mime (I shit you not. S/he's prolly reading this right now in fact. I hope so!) We do correspond every once in a while. Prolly last time was finding each other on Facebook (haha what a cliche). Anyway, a fashion designer in London now I believe. Christian I sometimes Skype with. The last time must have been when I was living in Tunisia... I'm not sure. He is a (flying) doctor and was in east Africa for a few years out in the bush. He was headed back to Germany last I heard. Sometimes I see his Skype light on. I'm going to chat him up next light-up and see what he's been up to. LA girl I never heard from again. Never say never...
So we all made a plan (LA girl's plan actually so we all hitchhiked onto her plan): Hurrah, we're all going to Fez to see LA girl off to grad school. Since the port was far from the bus station we all shared the taxi and that is how HERstory is made...
The train was long and slow- just how I like it. There is so much to trip out on just sitting down and watching the scenery dance by. The different sounds, the passengers walking by. The weird scam artist dude that came into our little cabana thingy and was showing us pictures of da kine and asking us if we wanted to get off at Agadir instead and he could show us around. He had the dark glasses on and everything- like a serious photo album. Anyway, I immediately thought to myself undercover police trying to kidnap/ransom us. No, I didn't really think that, but it sounds good to read- doesn't it?
So, we avoided 'him' the rest of the journey. He must have found some other starry-eyed travelers to scam oregano on them.
We got to Fez and yep- my mind was blown. The central outside area of the Medina. The people walking, biking, crawling all over. The smoke from the meat cooking, the orange juice sellers. Oh my goodness- THE ORANGE JUICE SELLERS! Dream city. We somehow managed to find our way through the haphazard kaos that was vibrant life teeming around us. It was so thick, the life, that it just dripped all over us.
We, I guess, were led into the Medina maze and found a hostel.
NOTE: break in story here. I really hope I'm not lazy and actually break from this typing and get my external hard drive and retreive the scans of those pictures and post them here. Make sure to give me total hell if you don't see any pictures near the end of this- okay?
So this place was amazing (my budget was definitely NOT amazing). I remember in the taxi in Tangier we stopped at a bank on the road to get some cash from the ATM. Now I believe this was the first time that I relied on a bank card to get cash out of foreign countries (haha). I was thrilled that it actually worked. What liberation for a traveler let me tell you. MAJOR.
NOTE: Fireworks are going off right now. Typical Gaziantep evening. Random. (not sure why I said that)
So, We had a 3-bed dormroom. We relaxed. Showered. Oh, the shower. So this was the first, and only, time that I took a shower where the shower was also the place that you shit. So you make damn sure that both your feet have even displacement on the foot stands above the water line with the large hole in it below... Yoga came in REALLY handy for that one. Honestly, the only worse bathrooms that I have ever seen was in Marseilles- which is my favorite city in France. I just adore the grittiness of it.
But, as always, I digress. Back to Marrekesh. Oh wait, what happened to Fez. I didn't finish with Fez. We were there a few days and saw amazing shit, then went further south- down into the edge of the Sahara Desert. Christian had a hankering to get to Merzouga. I don't know what it's like now, but 11 years ago it blew my mind. Yes it's true. We did it up right. Saw a village wedding. Danced at a village wedding. Yo Kwan got to hang out with me in the girls area of the wedding. There was singing and dancing. No other foreigners. The medina was cool there. Going out at night and eating was mind-blowing. Going into the medina and buying kohl eyeliner with Yo Kwan was amazing. He bought this cool Tuareg Berber kaftan thing. It was royal blue with gold piping. It was regal. We got hennaed. We got lost in the medina and had amazing adventures.
We went into the desert interior with the guys from the hostel we were staying at. There was this Lawrence of Arabia guy that was a flying doctor and was going into Algeria to do surgery for a few days. He took us around in his safari jeep and so was Lawrence. Everything from stopping at the wells at various areas in the road- which wasn't a road but open hardpan landscape. There was even a scorpion under a rock next to the ladel that was there always for weary travelers to wet their lips when they, inevitably, ran outta water... And then the 5 star hotel he took us to and we drank really expensive beers- that he bought. He was ready for an audience and we were captive listeners. He gladly bought our rounds. Then there was the trek into the desert for the moonrise. I'm talking camels and all. We walked and I remember bartering my Swatch Watch for some cool fabric from our new Berber friends.
So... after all the fun. One morning I woke up to screams. Ali came running to my door shouting that New York City was on fire. Yes folks, here is where this story takes a turn. I was on the Algerian/Moroccan border camping out underneath the stars at some Tuareg Berber stronghold at the edge of the desert when 911 happened.
Anyway, all surreal. I'm still here to type about it. Let's continue on to Marrekesh. Honestly, Marrekesh was last on my list of places that I liked in Morocco, but what does that really mean? I loved every minute of it.
NOTE: just had a balcony break. Gaziantep sleeps and I'm observing. The new age-y minarets in the distance that have their neon green lights banded around them- well the lights are off, but I always love it when the lights are on. It looks so space-agey. But it was a good break because I remember the reason for this blog. There is this little shop deep in the Çarşı downtown G-tep, and they sell clove cigarettes- real clove cigarettes. Apparently, as the story goes, there is this little old man in an otherwise empty store. He is sitting on a stool. When my friend inquired about where this place is that sells the cloves, he said, "right here" and lifted up the fabric and underneath the stool was 1 box of cigarettes. You couldn't buy just a pack. You had to buy the entire 10-pack. So my friend did. Anyway, I don't really ever smoke cloves, but I remember I did when I was traveling through Morocco. So that is the mystery folks. Solved.
Back to Morocco... I think I'm done here actually.
I did check the hard drive, and couldn't find the pictures, BUT I will leave you with some random photos from a series that is 'ARCHAEOLOGY CHICKS THAT ROCK" (I just made that up actually). This also has a subcategory of our fans (actually just friends outside the profession that somehow enjoyed our company). I realize that is a stretch to think we were some kinda wild women (wink), but look at the facts people: we lived the man's world. We rocked the construction sites. It was like being inside a commnando game and we were the mistresses of corporal punishment. Total Swiss Family Robinson syndrome. This includes all ex-boyfriends and other highlights that are now family and have to love me even though I post weird stories about them, Simone... But anyway... enjoy
It's the glorious end of a long, sometimes painful work week, but you know what, in the end it was great. I've come to some realizations. Most importantly that I'm not an army. Nor do I want to be an army- unless it's an army that only does battle with chocolate raspberry cake...
Anyhow... okay yes I continue on with this thought before I lose it once and for all. So, I think to myself, "just do it Holly. Just do it. Just re-adjust the kaleidoscope and let things fall into place as they tend to do if you just leave things alone and stay positive. With this in mind, it was an awesome week and I learned a lot. To boot, the weather has been fabulous. I'm almost thinking I could get in some lanai sun-soaking tomorrow (this) morning. A morning that is fast descending upon me right now in fact. I mustn't dawdle anymore. Let's get to the juice of this blog post- which wassssss....... I know I wanted to bring up Morocco- which came into my mind as I was ready to delve into my new research project. Shhhhh, but it's on a little-known (if any) archaeological site in the Cappadocia region. I'm not sure exactly as it might even be closer to Aksaray than Göreme. So this, of course, reminded me of Morocco 11 years ago...
I remember when I was on the ferry from Algeciras- at the tip of Spain and right next to Gibraltar. I had just started my journey a week before as I landed in Madrid. Hawaii to Madrid is a shock (although not as shocking as Hawaii to Antarctica I'm sure), and after a week I was freaking out and needed some open space- wanting to just have my mind blown. It was my first trip into Africa and it certainly set the pace for me- concerning the Maghreb countries anyway. The whole thing blew my mind.
My initial destination was Tangier- the main port city (I believe). I had no other plan beyond that. So on the ferry I decided I should meet up with some travelers. Immediately our motley crew was formed. Christian, the German med student/martial arts dude, was talking to ? from LA. She was moving to Fez to attend university and study Arabic language translation. Yo (real name) Kwan and I somehow drifted together and I believe we all met waiting for a taxi outside the port. So Yo Kwan's story: he was this Korean-American drag queen from.... Anyway somewhere in America. He was currently living in Paris studying to be a mime (I shit you not. S/he's prolly reading this right now in fact. I hope so!) We do correspond every once in a while. Prolly last time was finding each other on Facebook (haha what a cliche). Anyway, a fashion designer in London now I believe. Christian I sometimes Skype with. The last time must have been when I was living in Tunisia... I'm not sure. He is a (flying) doctor and was in east Africa for a few years out in the bush. He was headed back to Germany last I heard. Sometimes I see his Skype light on. I'm going to chat him up next light-up and see what he's been up to. LA girl I never heard from again. Never say never...
So we all made a plan (LA girl's plan actually so we all hitchhiked onto her plan): Hurrah, we're all going to Fez to see LA girl off to grad school. Since the port was far from the bus station we all shared the taxi and that is how HERstory is made...
The train was long and slow- just how I like it. There is so much to trip out on just sitting down and watching the scenery dance by. The different sounds, the passengers walking by. The weird scam artist dude that came into our little cabana thingy and was showing us pictures of da kine and asking us if we wanted to get off at Agadir instead and he could show us around. He had the dark glasses on and everything- like a serious photo album. Anyway, I immediately thought to myself undercover police trying to kidnap/ransom us. No, I didn't really think that, but it sounds good to read- doesn't it?
So, we avoided 'him' the rest of the journey. He must have found some other starry-eyed travelers to scam oregano on them.
We got to Fez and yep- my mind was blown. The central outside area of the Medina. The people walking, biking, crawling all over. The smoke from the meat cooking, the orange juice sellers. Oh my goodness- THE ORANGE JUICE SELLERS! Dream city. We somehow managed to find our way through the haphazard kaos that was vibrant life teeming around us. It was so thick, the life, that it just dripped all over us.
We, I guess, were led into the Medina maze and found a hostel.
NOTE: break in story here. I really hope I'm not lazy and actually break from this typing and get my external hard drive and retreive the scans of those pictures and post them here. Make sure to give me total hell if you don't see any pictures near the end of this- okay?
So this place was amazing (my budget was definitely NOT amazing). I remember in the taxi in Tangier we stopped at a bank on the road to get some cash from the ATM. Now I believe this was the first time that I relied on a bank card to get cash out of foreign countries (haha). I was thrilled that it actually worked. What liberation for a traveler let me tell you. MAJOR.
NOTE: Fireworks are going off right now. Typical Gaziantep evening. Random. (not sure why I said that)
So, We had a 3-bed dormroom. We relaxed. Showered. Oh, the shower. So this was the first, and only, time that I took a shower where the shower was also the place that you shit. So you make damn sure that both your feet have even displacement on the foot stands above the water line with the large hole in it below... Yoga came in REALLY handy for that one. Honestly, the only worse bathrooms that I have ever seen was in Marseilles- which is my favorite city in France. I just adore the grittiness of it.
But, as always, I digress. Back to Marrekesh. Oh wait, what happened to Fez. I didn't finish with Fez. We were there a few days and saw amazing shit, then went further south- down into the edge of the Sahara Desert. Christian had a hankering to get to Merzouga. I don't know what it's like now, but 11 years ago it blew my mind. Yes it's true. We did it up right. Saw a village wedding. Danced at a village wedding. Yo Kwan got to hang out with me in the girls area of the wedding. There was singing and dancing. No other foreigners. The medina was cool there. Going out at night and eating was mind-blowing. Going into the medina and buying kohl eyeliner with Yo Kwan was amazing. He bought this cool Tuareg Berber kaftan thing. It was royal blue with gold piping. It was regal. We got hennaed. We got lost in the medina and had amazing adventures.
We went into the desert interior with the guys from the hostel we were staying at. There was this Lawrence of Arabia guy that was a flying doctor and was going into Algeria to do surgery for a few days. He took us around in his safari jeep and so was Lawrence. Everything from stopping at the wells at various areas in the road- which wasn't a road but open hardpan landscape. There was even a scorpion under a rock next to the ladel that was there always for weary travelers to wet their lips when they, inevitably, ran outta water... And then the 5 star hotel he took us to and we drank really expensive beers- that he bought. He was ready for an audience and we were captive listeners. He gladly bought our rounds. Then there was the trek into the desert for the moonrise. I'm talking camels and all. We walked and I remember bartering my Swatch Watch for some cool fabric from our new Berber friends.
So... after all the fun. One morning I woke up to screams. Ali came running to my door shouting that New York City was on fire. Yes folks, here is where this story takes a turn. I was on the Algerian/Moroccan border camping out underneath the stars at some Tuareg Berber stronghold at the edge of the desert when 911 happened.
Anyway, all surreal. I'm still here to type about it. Let's continue on to Marrekesh. Honestly, Marrekesh was last on my list of places that I liked in Morocco, but what does that really mean? I loved every minute of it.
NOTE: just had a balcony break. Gaziantep sleeps and I'm observing. The new age-y minarets in the distance that have their neon green lights banded around them- well the lights are off, but I always love it when the lights are on. It looks so space-agey. But it was a good break because I remember the reason for this blog. There is this little shop deep in the Çarşı downtown G-tep, and they sell clove cigarettes- real clove cigarettes. Apparently, as the story goes, there is this little old man in an otherwise empty store. He is sitting on a stool. When my friend inquired about where this place is that sells the cloves, he said, "right here" and lifted up the fabric and underneath the stool was 1 box of cigarettes. You couldn't buy just a pack. You had to buy the entire 10-pack. So my friend did. Anyway, I don't really ever smoke cloves, but I remember I did when I was traveling through Morocco. So that is the mystery folks. Solved.
Back to Morocco... I think I'm done here actually.
I did check the hard drive, and couldn't find the pictures, BUT I will leave you with some random photos from a series that is 'ARCHAEOLOGY CHICKS THAT ROCK" (I just made that up actually). This also has a subcategory of our fans (actually just friends outside the profession that somehow enjoyed our company). I realize that is a stretch to think we were some kinda wild women (wink), but look at the facts people: we lived the man's world. We rocked the construction sites. It was like being inside a commnando game and we were the mistresses of corporal punishment. Total Swiss Family Robinson syndrome. This includes all ex-boyfriends and other highlights that are now family and have to love me even though I post weird stories about them, Simone... But anyway... enjoy
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| Me. One of the The 'Archaeology Chicks That Rock'--ed it a little bit too hard the previous evening- New Year's Eve- sometime about 5 years ago. Katie-girl (archaeology chick that rocks) and Lindsay (non-archaeologist chick that rocks it as a nurse) and I went backside Hana to Piero's place. We had so much fun (well I passed out at 11:45pm...) and woke up the next morning in sleeping bags outside of his house, nearly on the street (of course it is backside Maui so no traffic and total country... |
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| Rochelle le Belle and Lil'D: both archaeology chicks that rock. We rocked it a lot at their south side pad up in Maui Meadows. Miss dem gargoyles long time. |
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| going holoholo westside with katie-girl (same archaeology chick that rocks) and our 'hangers-on" (haha). We were headed to Honokohau Beach and somehow stopped at a house our friend was working construction on and totally scarfed up all their luscious mangoes! Heh heh. Resourceful we are. |
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| Lady-Di, moi, and Katie-girl (all archaeology chicks that rock). Katie wasn't it that weird dude that all got us those baseball caps for Christmas? Lady-Di is since married and with child so congrats to you my dear! Katie-girl is soon on her way down that road. And then there's me... Bye. Oh, apologize in advance for the absence of my senior editor-at-large. He is largely missing... Kolohe Kitty Kat RIP you sweet thing. Best kitty kat evah! |
11.10.2012
Cappadocia: one of my favorite jewels of Anatolia
Because I'm a fan of precious stones, when I travel to places I think about them in terms of a stone: How difficult is the place to get to (dark blue sapphire)? How popular is it (gold)? Is it overrun with tourists (diamond)? How hidden is this jewel (malachite)? (Is this a jewel in the rough (moss agate)? etc...
So I just traveled to Cappadocia
Now, let me begin.... But first, that's right- the coffee. Get the coffee (I'm typing to myself here, okay?) First you guys need a context:
It's Saturday morning 7:30 am. I woke up @ 4:30 am call to prayer and, apparently, only lightly fell back to sleep afterwards. So here I am. I did have the good sense to throw on some sweats and go outside to get my laundry going (a side bene(fit) for getting up early on weekends is getting to a washing machine 1st at the apartments). And then of course good sense continues with the french press. Coffee aromatherapy appreciation runs strong on morning weekends. Mehmet Effendi Espresso Blend is the demi-god to pay homage to. The proper goddess also received much needed adoration time as well.
A new friend in Göreme gave me a present from Cappadocia during my stay. Just a little token of the evening and the glory of Cappadocia region. Upon returning back home, I promptly forgot about it for the past 2 weeks. Makes the discovery all that much more sweet though, as I just found the present this morning so made use of it. It has inspired me to write about... Cappadocia.
Tra la la... (intermission as I prepare da kine cuppa joe)
Cappadocia. My first experience of the place was back in 2001. This was back during a most epic odyssey consisting of hoofing it around Europe, North Africa and finally to Turkey. By the time I arrived in Istanbul to visit Fezzy WHO was living there, WHO I went to University of Hawaii Hilo with, WHO was also an archaeology student, WHO still lives there... You get the picture- part of the inner circle of cosmic beings that rates high as a Homo sapien for me in this little microcosm of a world that I inhabit. Okay guys, keep following me...Don't stray off the path. I still remember the subject matter here...
But I digress... so I took a side trip to Kapadokya. I was ragged. Had been traveling all summer. Cappadocia was ragged- rough around the edges. Cappadocia, I first discovered here, was a jewel in thr rough- my favorite kind. The impurities of thıs jewel are ıts brilliance- like amber from the Balkans- serious natural beauty. Amber is like a snapshot of the ancient world- what got trapped on that tree at the time that the resin started hardening is a clue to our origins- BUT you have to understand this. You have to want to dig deep and delve into the mysteries of the Earth to know amber. When I look at a piece of amber, I see the galaxy... Deep thoughts, I know... So I saw this snapshot in the Kapadokya landscape to make a long, esoteric story less long...
(quick amber fun facts reference: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amber)
My 2nd trip to Cappadocia was in 2007. I was on a sabbatical from the archeology world back home on Maui. I was studying yoga in Istanbul, and back at Fezzy's HQs. I met a great cast of characters there who have helped me immensely and are like family to me. Family that NEVER comes and visits me here in Gaziantep mind you... ahem... work on it folks...
So Hillybilly came to visit me and then Sher-Bear followed her. The merry pranksters set off for a Kapadokyan adventure- surely. Twas memorable indeed. Nuff said.
Fast-forward to 2012 Kurban Bayram. The new trio of princesses; the Turkish Princess (TP), the Azeri Princess (AP) and the Hawaiian Princess (HP) set out on a whirlwind 1500 kilometer journey by... rental car! Now, the AP doesn't drive so TP did the majority. I was her wing-chick and covered her ass when she needed to catch some shut-eye. I'm an awesome 'wing-chick- by the way...
Now one of the main thrills of this trip was that both the AP and the TP had never been to Cappadocia before, so I functioned as a tour guide (how gratifying can that be when the stranger gets to show the locals around their own turf... heh heh).
As any proper princess would do, she sought out the local Knights of the area. One night in shiny armor I had met back in 2007. He was kind enough to rent me his car for 2 days so my travel mates and I could go check out the underground cities to the south, etc. I never did forget him. I even had some updates on him since HillyBilly ended up staying in the region for a couple years- because of a Knight, of course...
Goreme is a village (albeit over-run with tourists a lot of the year now), so I knew it would be easy to find this Knight. The 2 people that I asked were in fact his relatives so, search was over. We all met up and planned some events for the next few days.
The history of the name Cappadocia, from what I researched, goes back to Persian times. The area was called Katpatukya and means 'land of beautiful horses'. The history dates back much further, of course, back to before the Hittites, but more on that later.I suspect there is more to this story though. I'll report back later on this.
The different types of erosional weathering is what has formed the landscape- just like any landscape, but it is quite unusual here and I am strangely attracted to it. This is strange because I am a water girl. I can't really be away from the beach for too long. Being land-locked is sometimes difficult to deal with honestly...The place is rough and rugged with no pretenses- just how I like my men. On that note, I met a Knight there (born and raised in that ethereal landscape no less) that had those qualities... *alas* Not to get carried away here, but I just have to say that... oh, forget it...
The Cappadocian geological region is located on a high plateau and experiences extreme temperature differences. It has a lot of water sources in the area. When water freezes, it expands. When this happens underground, things move. Same with rocks, right? So because of all this super cool natural science, we have Cappadocia's perhaps lunar-like surface? Whatever you think it looks like, it is just cool. I wanted to get lost hiking in those valleys. I really missed my 4X4 truck while I was here. You could just drive off in a direction and get lost in it. I imagined myself driving (with a Knight of course) into the lunar landscape and just stopping off somewhere and setting up camp. You would need all the luxuries of course: fishing poles, BBQ, tent, my favorite Canadian Goose Down sleeping bag (affectionately better known as 'my husband'. The AZ termed this for me)... mountain bikes, beer, good friends to share in the experience, and most importantly- a sense of adventure
Back to our reality trip though, and not my 'fantasy trip', having a car is the only way to really check out the region. There is so much unusual beauty- just like a Moss Agate stone. Because it is formed of volcanic rocks, this makes sense to me. These geologic formations have this shaping due to a denser lava from a later eruption covering a previous 'tuft' (consolidated volcanic ash) layer. The heaviness of the top layer cut through the mountains, in places of weakness, and sliced them literally vertically. So, weak covalent bonding (geologically speaking) created conical-shaped phallic mountains! It is confirmed yet again, SCIENCE ROCKS!
I've traveled around Turkey fairly extensively, and off the beaten path often. This place is just pleasant- even with the increased amounts of tourism that I have noticed over the past 11 years. You can still be in Göreme, and off walking on a trail and be totally alone. It still feels ancient in the evenings when it's dark and the landscape is illuminated with lights shining out from fairy chimneys (the volcanic tuft cones that resemble one of the finer aspects of Homo sapiens of the male species).
So the intrepid traveler princesses had fun and days/nights were occupied with love, lust for nature, and laughter. We happened to bring along our Ottoman Era costumes as we knew they'd come in handy...
Each time I have visited the place, I know I'll return. It's just like that. There is too much about the area. I want more. I have unfinished business there.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cappadocia
I'm going to stop typing and just put the pictures in so you all can kinda just 'arm-chair' travel as I like to call it.
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| some of Göreme's finest... |
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| finally some decent wine that rivals Bozcaada... |
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| some clay pot action |
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| yum |
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| heading to the wine cave |
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| Naz hanging out |
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| we didn't want to get lost returning from the wine cave so I had this brilliant idea to have Naz point the direction home |
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| at the tractor head left |
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| with Naz inside the wine cave |
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| leaving the wine cave & wondering where our sleeping cave is |
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| once we found the right path, we took a detour to look at a cave for sale- at midnight. It was spooky... |
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| standard operating procedure |
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| there it is... |
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| yea, we brought costumes with us... |
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| enjoying a Cappadocian morning |
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| voila! |
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| Naz |
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| moi |
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| Selin |
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| lounge lizards... |
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| 3 witches holding court in Cappadocia |
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| Naz looking coquettish |
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| room with a view |
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| hanging out at the museum. I wasn't feeling the crowds |
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| captured |
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| hanging out |
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| good times |
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| scary monsters |
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| awesome landscape |
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| our host supplied us with wine at the caravansarai |
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| before |
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| after... |
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| digging on the view |
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| dinner at a village house with Yaşar and Mustafa |
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| the afterparty... |
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| brilliant morning after |
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| sweet Göreme |
Well it's a perfectly beautiful gray day. I say this optimistically as it will soon morph into a sea of gray in the next few months... The sky, in fact, reminds me of the Pacific Ocean in northern Cal in winter... If you want to go in it and enjoy, you have to put on a wetsuit...
I might have just stopped mid-sentence in some of this. I can't be held responsible for lost/distracted thoughts. This is simply how I roll during these posts. I genuinely don't believe I'm so scattered in my thoughts in person.
I'm not also spellchecking...
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