All Hallow's Eve 2012, OR You Say 'Halfeti.' I think 'Rumkale.'

October 31st. All Hallow's Eve- more commonly known the world over as Halloween.

My favorite hollyday. It's originally thought to have pagan roots and celebrated as harvest festivals, as well as a festival of the dead (souls). If it is to be viewed as a Celtic Samhain, then it is seen as the time when this plane of existence (our world) opens the door wide enough for all the dead souls and other beings (faeries, maybe even unicorns, etc.) to enter into our existence (temporarily). Samhain marked the end of harvest season. A big feast ensues and the souls of the dead come back to their houses on this day for the feast. It is even thought that there is a place setting at the table for the deceased relative... Now, with all the good souls arriving into our world, some bad or evil souls 'get through' as well as the tale goes. So it is thought today that the modern Halloween of dressing up on costumes comes from this ancient ritual of dressing up so the bad spirits wouldn't recognize you.

All Hallow's Eve is also my favorite Hollyday because it is the day that my father was born on.  I am blessed with 2 great events on this day!

Being that I'm in what I consider to be a rural area in Turkey, there is no overt Halloween tradition present here. I did plan ahead though. A few weeks ago I was out with some girlfriends and we decided that we were going to have traditional Ottoman era outfits made for us. We each picked out a different color fabric and VOILA- 2 weeks later they were ready to be picked up.

It was a joyous occasion- picking up our costumes. We pranced around the bazaar with them on and celebrated with beer at Ekim 29- our favorite watering hole over here. As a side note, 'Ekim 29' is translated as October 29th- Turkey's Republic or Independence Day. It is a huge holiday throughout the country- as is our 4th of July.

We picked up our gorgeous costumes the day before we hit the road en route to Hatay and Cappadocia- which I intend to blog about this weekend... But I digress... back to the story...

So what did we do? We took our costumes with us of course. Da Girls gotta get mileage out of these splendid outfits- know what I mean? 

Don't worry, I'm getting to the main point of all this soon- I think...

Ahhhh yes. I remember now. Halfeti. How does All Hallow's Eve tie into my Halfeti story- which I haven't even got to yet...

Okay it's getting late so is time to just cut to the chase: tonight I'm thinking about my father, which makes me think about Halloween, which makes me think about my wicked cool Ottoman era costume, which makes me think about my Kurban Bayram trip to Hatay and Cappadocia where we all wore our costumes around the natural landscape in the most random of places on and off the road... So now I am blogging about Halfeti because my Halfeti trip happened  BEFORE Bayram- and I want to blog about that trip.

I realize this prolly doesn't make sense to you guys, and that's alright. It's not my problem if you can't follow along with where my mind is not only at, but where it's going... heh heh.

Enough folly. I'm getting serious now. That means no more typing so with no further ado, I will commence with the pictures of... Halfeti. Well, I first need to give you all a BRIEF history of the place:

So there's this castle, Rumkale, at this place- Halfeti. Halfeti is about 1.5 hours east from Gaziantep, near Şanliurfa. It is on the Euphrates River, which along with the Tigris River further east makes up the Fertile Crescent. So Halfeti is famous for being ancient. It is also famous in modern times for an entirely different reason: In the 1990s many dams were constructed throughout central/east/southeast Anatolia. These are part of the GAP project as part of the Turkish government's economic and agricultural incentive program.

As with any government endeavor, with pleasure comes pain- am I right?  The town of Halfeti was, unfortunately, going to be impacted so severely that the entire town would be underwater once the waters were damned by Birecik. Now Halfeti is partially submerged, and the town had to be moved away inland further.  What remains is an eerie ecene: clear waters on calm days where one can see beneath the surface to the remnants of the city. As well, there is a minaret  that remains partially above the surface of the water, yet the attached mosque is well beneath the surface. It is so beautiful in its staggering history. Here is this monument to a people's faith, a mosque- or cami- which is submerged due to something that is supposed to bring a better way of life (a dam to increase economic and agricultural endeavors) to the people, etc. I find the dichotomy interesting. The survival of the minaret is just magnificent in it's singular majesty almost appearing to be hovering just above the surface of the (now) reservoir.

In terms of the geology, the stark contrast between the deepest of blues water and the nakedness of the surrounding hillsides dotted with abandoned dwellings cut into the stone... it just transports you back into time. As you take a boat tour of the area, it is like your personal time machine where you see into the future and you think you have found the secrets to time travel. Yea I know, pretty cool trip right?

I forgot to mention Rumkale- the fortress high above the lake situated atop a rocky outcropping. It is Byzantine and Armenian in origin. Oh Zeugma is also in the vicinity. Zeugma is an ancient Greek & then Roman city that was 're-discovered' during excavation of the Birecik Dam.  Loads of mosaic fragments were discovered during the initial work. Along comes the archaeologists (YAY!) and then come the giant mosaics, some of which were re-constructed. As with any archeological project, the archaeologists are working just in front of the bulldozers.  This project being no different, the salvage work had to occur rapidly because the mosaics were in danger of becoming submerged by the dam. If this happened, and it surely partially did, major monuments to a previous civilization is lost. Disappears. Poof it's gone. Nothing to see over here folks. Move along... Aha modern civilization is indeed a bitch isn't it...

Okay I'm burnt out with my narrative. Pictures now!

L AND L and Brandon, our resident ancient historian/goofball all around good guy

Farahnaz- otherwise known as the Azari Princess

Selin- our hostess with the mostess

All smiles the 1st half hour of the ride- until your body realizes you are indeed on a mini-bus...

So... which way do we go?

our first sighting...

Yeni Halfeti (the new city)

rare bald Ibis birds only found here in Turkey and Egypt and 1 other place that I forgot. Anyone reading this remember???

groupies

zombies headed to the tea trough... heh heh

I want this ride... wicked car for sure

our ringleader and myself

trying to do cool tricks with my camera here...

Brandon telling us like it is- or how it was in terms of ancient Halfeti... history geeks rock

more photographic poe-tree... get it? Poetry...

Food! Most peeps got the local fish, but I still LOVE patrican kebap... Nom Nom Nom

Spency, D-bird & Thurston- posers...

caught my eye

I like pinwheels. I like Farahnaz. They are both in my picture for a reason.

Our captain and co-captain Selda (Selin's cool cousin who set it all up)

boat is approaching some abnormal activity. I can just feel it. Something is out there...

"Thar she blows"

Upon closer inspection it is in fact not a white whale, but a minaret sticking out of the (flood)waters of the Birecik Dam

cave life. I love cafe life. I want to live in a cave. A cave would be better than my current apartment honestly.

view from cave

cave stage

it's an awesome sight

stowaway on board ship. Kitty gave up its Halfeti citizenship to become a Gaziantep feline

another cami near the harbor.

heading into an amazing sunset after a ful-filled day spent exploring ancient ruins with friends here in the Cradle of Civilization.

Well... what did you think? No smart-ass grammatical comments/corrections either...

I always think my blog posts will only take an hour to produce… I'm never on time here.
 You all owe me a beer.

Amerika June 2012 Odyssey

Altered State of Mind…

Sunday morning, and a bright sunny one at that, here in the Fertile Crescent. In other words, a wake-n-bake kinda day it’s starting out to be.  Summers here can be cruel with unrelenting sun beating down on the denizens, but this morning, it appears, we have been spared. A gentle breeze wafts and I see my lovely Indian Silk colorful curtains doing that dance that I so love to watch- for hours- on many different continents in fact.

I know I have written before of my love for my curtains (material that I originally bought in Hawaii & turned them into hanging pieces of (shade) art. It’s just that these curtains are one of the remaining ‘things’ that grounds me back to Hawaii. They have traveled with me everywhere- as you all already know. I always smile when in their presence. The light show that it gives off with the filtered sunlight is dazzling and puts me in a trance where transported to many exotic places…

One exotic place, my first stopover on my Amerika June 2012 Odyssey, is New York City. Two main things are important about NYC in my life: I went to graduate school here, and a very charming ex BF of mine dwells here. Needless to say, I caught up on both as I breezed through there. Some other pleasing surprises included friends from afar…

NYC- it’s hard to figure out where to begin… Let’s just say that I hit up 4 of the 5 Boroughs- of course Manhattan being the most mind-blowing. I also ate my way through the City. And drank. And shopped. And…and…and. Strolls through Central Park, museum explorations (meet-up w/my Maui posse here), and city-slicking. I know the role. I played my part. To a “T”.

somewhere in Kip's Bay

from the rooftop of the Met

subway skyline

Jane Hotel, Greenwich Village

NYC pours on the charm- always

The Village envirions

Maui posse represents: Kiwi Paul & Mz. Katherine with me at the Met.

Gallery walk in UES

One memorable highlight: It was my first morning in the City. I was at a coffeehouse ordering my first much anticipated ‘real’ coffee drink in almost a year (sorry Turkey, and a 10TL cappuccino from Starbucks in Istanbul DOES NOT count).  I was spaced out soaking in the delightful scenery & aroma and realized the barista had asked me a question. She repeated, “What kind of milk would you like with that?” I had to think for a moment what she was talking about- I mean, milk is milk- right? She’s looking at me like I’m an alien for what seemed like eons. Then I realized she is asking about soy, half & half, 1%, etc.  I burst out laughing at the absurdity of the situation- that only I understood in those moments & just casually replied, “half & half” please. I then said, to no one in particular, “I know I’m back in America now.” Perhaps some of the patrons got it that there is no such questions offered from a coffee dude here in SE Turkey…

So my secret spy mission (yea, I know you’re reading this Spy1) here was to find books to bring back with me to Turkey. I turned the city upside down in my quest, and had loads of fun in doing so. I love having a mission in NYC. I attacked all my missions there, in fact, with a voracious appetite. No leftovers. Fully satiated, I departed.

just do it

Next on agenda: Maui. Again, what to say to you to give an honest reality I know not. I can’t describe eloquently or succinctly so just read my ramblings & try to organize my headspace on your own.

Now, all my international friends that have not been to Hawaii think that it is a paradise of sorts. They conjure up romantic images of the Hawaii of Honolulu or Waikiki lore. What they don’t realize is that my Hawaii, my Maui, is quite different. There are not a lot of over-the-top nightclubs where you can dance until sunrise. No, not on my island. BUT, there are many funky, sugar-shack style dance parties on the beaches, in the mountains, etc where one can dance all night under moonlight. These one must go in search of though. They are not readily available to the tourist or neophyte.

old hood of mine

another old hood of mine...

Maui is, in fact, quite a sleepy place in my humble opinion. Of course you have your modern conveniences at your fingertips in town (Kahului), but on my side of the island, time seems to stand still. This notion was reinforced in everything that I encountered.

Some things change, of course... look at the price of gas!

My first morning I walked down from Simone’s place in Makawao town to Casanova’s Deli for my requisite coffee and no, the barista Joell, of course (Joelle prolly has been there a decade at least), did not ask me what type of milk I wanted! That is just a ‘city thing’ I decided.

just having a coffee and a look-see at Makawao Town from Casanova's Deli

Familiar faces everywhere and suddenly I focus on a picture behind the counter. It is of “El Jeffe”, an elusive Maui denizen for years. El Jeffe was a hippy dude and a good friend. I mean, the real thing. He had land out in lonely Kanaio, a place that clings desperately to the SE corner of the islands midland slopes. The picture of him was oddly beautiful. Yet oddly strange. I could see immediately in his eyes that he no longer walked this Earth. I had to ask the question that I already knew the answer to. I received my confirmation. I took my coffee and walked away feeling a bit displaced. My eyes started welling up, and I suddenly realized I didn’t really know anybody in this moment that I could lament to. I turned around and walked outside to their lanai to soak up the morning sun and await Michelle’s arrival.

nature turns me on #1

nature turns me on #2

nature turns me on #3

nature turns me on #4

nature turns me on #5

nature turns me on #6

nature turns me on #7

nature turns me on #8

NATURE TURNS ME ON...

So, most all my close friends work during the day, but loads, of course, do not have ‘normal’ jobs so to speak. This makes it easy to pop in on people and catch up. I decided not to rent a car and just hitchhike around during my stay. Again, time stands still. Acquaintances stopping to pick me up, strangers that immediately become endearing acquaintances, local folk who would listen to my stories about Africa & Turkey, etc. Charming experiences it was- as always on Maui. Why? Because time stands still. Every time I am transported back home, I experience this. It’s like a comfortable hypnopompic déjà vu.

Paia town

more Paia town

happy Paia denizens

This, folks, is what I love about Maui. I can return world weary, and be comforted in Maui’s loving embrace: the forests mystify me. The waterfalls enrapture me. The beaches comfort me into a striking silence. Yes, it’s the beaches that really does its number on me. Again, most my Maui posse works so I always head to the beach alone when I return.

I spy Baldwin Beach

Baldwin Beach flying their national flags proudly

Yep, some people work at the beach...

It is here at the beach that I run into most everybody, and the coconut wireless ensues. I mean, I find out everything about everybody for the time that I was gone in a matter of hours. I love this, but I also love how I spend the rest of my time at the (Baldwin) Beach. I can just sit and stare into the horizon where ocean meets sky. Fisherfolk walk by carrying their Ulua rods. Children are playing. People are running the beach, sunning, chatting, etc. Everybody is happy.

fisherfolk

To contrast, Turkey’s Aegean and Mediterranean beaches are fabulous too, BUT there is no beach that one can just rock up to and chill out. There is usually a hotel, resort, etc or some obstruction to simply reaching the beach that you have to deal with before you can relax. Usually a transfer of money is involved too. I’m not used to this beach behavior. I’m not used to having to work so hard to reach the beach. This is why Chris’s place in Kabak (Reflections Camp) www.reflectionscamp.com on the Mediterranean is such a joy for me to escape to a few times a year! This is, so far, the only beach in Turkey where I feel ‘free.’ So my challenge to you (Turkish) readers is to drop some names of other possible spots in Turkey where I can experience this…

I digress. Back to the (Baldwin) Beach… This trip my book (I always have a book for a trip) was Vonnegut’s “Slaughterhouse-five.” This book has escaped me for all these years. As I would talk to peeps about my current reading selection, many said they had read that book back in high school. I couldn’t believe it really. I mean, Vonnegut did write in simple sentences using a big font, but I guess I just thought that the content wouldn’t be insightful for an American teenage audience.

Vonnegut insights

I also had my own challenge in reading this book. As I started reading the book, I had a conversation with a friend who told me that this book changed his life when he read it as a 14 year old. I was, of course, intrigued so I asked, “How?” His answer was vague- as all his answers are. He simply said the experience was terrifying yet positive. Again I asked, “How?” Again vagueness ensued, “You’ll see.”

It took me too much time to read my book because of my many distractions (food, friends, adult libations, camping trips to the jungle, etc) so I’m not sure I understood his terrifying ‘rite of passage’ experienced from the passages, but I adored the book. We shall see if the international man of mystery ever divulges, or if he’s just a tease- as I suspect.

Another contrast between NYC & Maui that comes to mind: NYC was all about men (except you Mz. Katherine), and Maui was all about my wonderful female friends. That’s all.

No trip back home would be complete without stopping by Wailuku to see all my ex co-workers (sexy archaeologists ROCK), and my coffeetalk chit-chatters. Again, time stands still on Maui.

art

art studio

so yes, I spent some time in this humble Maui abode of one of my Wailuku town coffeetalk partners, Wendy (one of Maui County's loveliest public servants) & Tom (who was off island galavanting around during my stay). Hot tub is hidden in this picture...

fantasy outside shower

morning cup of cheer...

my constant companion

did I say fierce?

inside my enchanting sugar shack

Yet another contrast: in NYC I was tearing up the subway system & slaying the sidewalks, yet back on Maui I kept within a ‘north & east shore’ radius. I love that. 

An unplanned delight- heading out Hana side w/Simone & doing some jungle traipsing complete with hikes to waterfalls & beautiful coastline images. It was like a moving picture show for me- as a passenger. I was directing my own documentary. Feelings of freedom. Feelings of raw beauty. Feelings so beautiful they hurt when considering I was so far away from them all now- with living in Turkey. But also a feeling of knowing I can’t be there all the time anymore. This is a feeling of satisfaction: to be able to honor my feelings of my island home as I exile myself around the world.

mysterious road- every time...

Honomanu Bay

Island Kine

another roadside attraction...

bridge soaked in history

making hungry time

yummy

da kine ono grinds

FOOD!!! Bring it

so da kine

fruits of hard labor

bathroom signage

that's right. for da kine deposit- jungle style

no one going to be asking what kine milk  you take with your coffee here... 

pretty in pink

gargoyles enjoying the day

so refreshing

more... wait for it... awesomeness...

its so ridiculous how beautiful Maui is...

sleepy Wailua village with a sweet surf break I hear

eyes hurt so beautiful da island

So we hit up Wainapanapa:

road stays so kapakai (crooked) here...

caves, waterfalls, black sand beaches- Wainapanapa has it all. Campground too!

peek-a-boo. I spy beautiful black sand beach calling out to me & Simone

anticipation... climbing down the slope to reach the beach is half the fun

surreal I know. 

Simone searching for perfection. More on that later...

feelings of admiration for my 808 State of Mind...

it really is this good here...

we swam in the caves too *COLD WATER*

I had to visit Chuck & Martha out Koali side. I don't know what happened to the pictures. There seems to be some lost ones *damn camera malfunction*  Simone, do you remember if I took any pics in Koali? I know I was a bit loopy & all with all the islands delightful samplings, but... WTF!!! heh heh.

island style

leaving Chuck & Martha's

miss my truck...

yea, the camera is fuzzy. It's not me... All I can say is that everything is ALWAYS better after leaving Chuck & Martha's place...

We cruised Backside too:

dining area

Maui via Italy...

deep serenity 

art studio overflow

beauty everywhere- can one possibly overdose on beauty?

necessity

portal opening

our Backside host Piero

leading nowhere in particular, yet everywhere within the unlimited mindspace

overdose

breakfast

even the plumbing is stunning

every epicure's dream kitchen

room with a view

favorite bridge & peeps in the know know...

getting down in the jungle

favorite waterfall

we had it all to ourselves

birds eye view of sky-crotch

on the road again

making tracks Backside

monumental

So, this is what i did on my summer vacation Part I. Now, just remember:

again, just do it, whenever you can...