Happy Anniversary Jasmine...

Today marks 2 years since Tunisians came together and revolted against their then dictator, Ben Ali. I feel fortunate to have witnessed it while living downtown in the Lafayette neighborhood.  I feel fortunate because of what I saw. Because of what I felt. Because of what took place. Because history was being re-written.  I don't know how I feel about it today, as Tunisia is still recovering, and it is not clear at all if liberties are being granted, or continue to be taken away with the new (provisional) government.

But back to those moments. I was so proud of my Tunisian friends, colleagues and students. They stood in the wake of danger daring to defy the iron-fist management of the country by Ben Ali and his thugs cabinet members... My friends were so proud of have brought down an oppressive regime. The courage and energy that radiated from them was infectious. There were so many reasons to celebrate. That was then. What is happening now?

Things are not okay in Tunisia. Rights are being taken away still. Disinformation continues to exist. Corruption. Joblessness still rules. Freedoms that existed before Jasmine are threatened today. Take the government's plan to forbid public displays of affection I'm not talking about acts of lewd sexual behavior. I'm talking kissing/hugging in public... Take also the government's comments about what 'art' is supposed to be at a recent art exhibit in La Marsa where some political works of art were on display & the local Salafis didn't take kindly to & decided to violate the art space to show their dissatisfaction.  Take the (apparent) Salafi attack & subsequent destruction of a mausoleum of a 13th century Sufi saint in the beautiful Mediterranean town of Sidi Bou Said last weekend. Take the government's non-committal action for it all... blah blah blah...

So much beauty I discovered while living in Tunisia. I was so broke living there, and I still was able to see/feel such beauty. I didn't need much living there. I was happy. I had a beautiful old apartment on Rue D'Egypte. I could walk to work and all around downtown. I had lovely friends. We had sweet, cheap watering holes we used to frequent complete with lively conversations.  I could continue on. But there is no need. You all get the picture.

Many of us have moved on since Jasmine. Quite a few remain. I am almost envious. Those who remain get the real picture. They are a part of the solution- a solution that is taking a back seat to a status-quo corruption that cannot be chased away so easily as Ben Ali was... They need all their strength.

My time there was short. My abundance of love for Tunisia is endless. I briefly returned in 2011. Walking the streets. Taking in the smells. Seeing old friends. Eating my favorite foods. All of it felt like a homecoming of sorts. A homecoming that was really without ever having really settled into a home. That's how special Tunis is to me.

I will return again someday.

Sleepless in Kas...

Traveling all night. No sleep for the privileged. Just off the bus 10 am & have landed in Kas. I'm at Noel Baba Cafe having my 2nd cappuccino. It's a real cappuccino- prolly with a real price attached to it...

So I'm trying to orient myself to the town right now. Need to take care of some business before heading out to the end of the peninsula at Arpas Hotel.  Looking forward to simply relaxing in the water today. I need to find Bouginvilla Sports. I need to find the danisma to get a map and figure out the times of the dolmus to the peninsula. I need to get some fruit and beer, and then go out to the hotel...

The harbor is quaint and full of boats/yachts. This meets my requirements! Next I need to work on finding my dive master... The requisite cats abound with a token lazy, overly huge dog strewn about. It's early still- mid morning and I witness the town waking up. 

This cafe is right at the toe of the harbor so people watching is front row spectator sport here. It already looks like my kind of town. The place could prolly use a yoga instructor in the summers. Everybody looks tanned, relaxed, and casual sporty. Gives me a tinge of a feel of back home. Yet, Hawaii has drop dead hotties so to speak. I'm sure they exist here.  Me thinks more reconnaissance work is needed- tonight!

Back to life, back to reality: my reality is a backpack! I have to say I adore this lifestyle. Some people are just born to be free. This is freeing:Hoping on a plane solo; making my way to the otogar at 3:30am; sleeping on a bench outside the otogar (with one eye open) with my backpack wrapped around my foot and a small bag as a pillow... Traveling the Mediterranean coast following the Lycian Way and admiring the beauty of the landscape, and finally arriving at my destination exhausted yet amped up from adrenalin of making it all happen- by myself. 

Spotted someone. Interesting. Observing a man on his bot smoking a cigarette. Waiting- prolly for customers.  He looks happy. I can see through the leathery lines on his face. He is privileged to lead this life. 

Sounds like Greek music in the background. I get the feeling everybody likes each other here...

I'm stalling now. I should already have my backpack on and heading out...I need to get through this last stretch of tasks before I can relax I my bikini.  Oh how heavenly just to type the words: B I K I N I.  This is the only problem in my current life: lack of bikini.  

tunis 3-D

...And 3rd time is a charm. Yet again, another post I excavate from my (newly found) "Lost Series" of blog posts that never made it into print...

Scene: I am living in Tunis. David had just moved into his apartment I believe, and this was our home-cooked dinner for four. The centerpiece came with the flat...Bonus. As I recall there were some velvet wall hangings of chicks scantily clothed that corresponded to the signs of the zodiac as well...That was a funny apartment. Incidentally, this is the same apartment in which a group of us teachers were holed up in during the Jasmine Revolution on the fateful day that then president/dictator Ben Ali fled the country en route to Saudi Arabia- where he continues to rot...

Okay that's it. Enjoy:

______________


Here's what I've been up to in my absence of prose...

dinner at David's complete w/Tunisian Red and appropriate centerpiece

Sinful & Hot Cyprus...

I recently traveled to Cyprus. It was an interesting journey in that I didn’t have a Plan A, or Plan B really. I knew I wanted a beach. That was the plan. I knew I wanted no ‘ordinary’ tourists. That was the plan. I knew I wanted a hot encounter. That was the plan. All plans lead to North Cyprus, on the far eastern end- the Karpas Peninsula.

The Karpas Peninsula is an area where the mainstreat tourist dollar has not yet reached- or to any mega-resort status. There are definitely signs of imminent resort building so I suggest that you go- NOW while it’s still pristine & low key. I would say that it is, typically, a place for tourists to drive to for a day to check out, and then trot back to their comfy hotels near the action, casinos, etc…

So, a little background is first in order to tell you all about what Cyprus is exactly… I think it’s safe to say that it is a disputed territory (island country) in the southeastern Mediterranean.  The island is divided into 2 separate ‘areas’; The Republic of Cyprus, or the southern part, which is governed by Greece, and Northern Cyprus (officially the “Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus TRNC), governed by Turkish Cypriots.

There is the infamous `Green Line’ that is ‘drawn across the island, horizontally, denoting north & south. Various checkpoints occur at the Green Line so that Greeks and Turks can ‘somewhat’ freely move about. I say this because it is necessary for some denizens to get a passport card stamped instead of a passport page stamped as not all is ‘paradise’ in this Mediterranean ‘paradise.’

As the contemporary story goes, in 1974 Turkey invaded Cyprus. Let’s just keep this post ‘happy’ and stop right there… Politically it’s a hot plate issue throughout the region.  I love me some hot plates…

Archaeologically speaking, the island has a raich heritage with many different tribes/kingdoms leaving a historical & cultural mark in the archaeological record with a prehistory dating back to 10,000 BC.  It seems everybody wanted a piece of Cyprus’ ass, right up to our present timeline. I took a bite out of Cyprus’ ass for sure!

But I digress… back to things I can divulge…

So Cyprus had many suitors that included during Neolithic times to be the Hitites, Mycenaeans, Assyrians, Persians,  Achaemenids, & the Greeks (under Alexander the Great & the Ptolemy Dynasty).

The Romans (Holy Roman Empire) dominated the Middle Ages occupation. Well, it was the Eastern Roman Empire, or more commonly known as the Byzantine Empire that ruled Cyprus. Not to be left behind, the Ottomans took over rule right up until British occupation (oh yea, lots of Brits on Cyprus). Independence finally came in 1960, and THAT folks brings us up to date on basic Cyprus history 101. It is so much more convoluted than this, but a decent freshman start for sure.

So, off I trotted. I landed in Lefkoşa one balmy April evening.  Lefkoşa, in my opinion, is a most underrated city- prolly due to the fact that it is inland. Must be dreadfully hot in the summertime. Locals told me that a lot of citydwellers head to the coast during the summer so the city can be a skeleton of sorts. The city’s historic district sits smack in the middle of The Green Line, or the UN Buffer Zone. That is another story that I may or may not remember to get to later on…

So I’m at Ercan International Airport waiting for my ride. I was staying at http://www.burhansgoldenbeach.com/  & Burhan’s brother was picking me up.  So earlier you read about my criteria while on Cyprus and from what I read on the net, Burhan’s place was right up my alley. I did not think I would be disappointed, and I certainly was not. Of course, it was still early in the tourist season- actually it wasn’t yet tourist season, so this was equally beneficial for me. From what I know, this is the most remote part of Cyprus, and it was fantastic. Fantastic to not have to look at any highrises, or really anything at all but for a few camps in the area. There were no casinos, discos, Starbuck’s, not even any electricity where I was staying.

So I was happy. I hung out with the crew in the evenings and on the beach during the daytime. We drank. We smoked. We ate quality, wholesome food. We sat out underneath the stars, etc. Therapy. Nuff said… Gets kinda fuzzy from here anyway and I can’t divulge everything…

I decided that I wanted to check out Lefkoşa my last 2 days so off I went. I left my beach bungalow and beautiful Golden Beach where the sands stretched unblemished for kilometers & kilometers for bright lights big city… Because I had no Plan A or Plan B, I decided the night before that I would leave in the morning, so off I went again after a lovely breakfast & goodbyes to the crew. I just started walking in the direction of the city- 3 hours away… So yes, I hitchhiked. Now, this is always a preferred way to travel when you are just in that… mood. That mood that is filled with spiritual wanderlust, and time is no problem. It took me 3 rides to get into Lefkoşa and each one of them was a pleasant surprise.

My first ride, about a kilometer down the road from Burhan’s place (not because no one was stopping to pick me up, but because that was the first car that came down the road), was from 2 local farmers. They were country gentlemen. They dropped me off in Dipkarpaz- the only ‘city’ in the entire eastern end of the peninsula. Next was a guy that was going to Famugusta! What luck as that was a long journey from where we currently were. We stopped off at his sister’s house to pick her and her two children up.  Off we went. They were Kurds and excited when they found out that I lived in southeastern Turkey.  So I got to see the sights of downtown Famagusta, etc.

The last ride was just that, a fairly non-eventful ride through the island interior. Lefkoşa, as I said, is really an interesting city. The 2 different sides of the Green Line are like night and day; In the north, it is like a moment in time that has been standing still for a while. The Turkish side, in my opinion, is filled with mystery in a sort of decaying grandeur. Now, I’m just talking about the historic part of the city that straddles the Line- the Walled City as they call it because the historic part is surrounded by Venetian walls (yes, the Italians were a ((brief)) part of the island heritage as well). It has a very nostalgic feel to it. It’s like you can see through the looking glass of time into the city’s past legacy. Old signs & billboards, wallpaper that is in a continual state of peeling off the walls, musky smells in the bookstores where it appears that some books have not been touched on the shelves, etc.

In the south (Greek) part of the Walled Cirty, it just feels more contemporary, and more lively. The coffeehouses were thriving with university students. There were a lot of modern shops, in comparison to the lovely bazaar area in the north. So, traipsing between the 2 parts is no problem as there is a pedestrian walkway through the official UN Buffer Zone. There are many passport controls along the way, but it is a breeze.

I was only in the city 2 days/1 night, but definitely connected with the area. I also had the best Greek food I’ve had in a long time. Both sides of “The Line” had their merits. I will be back…

So, here are some pictures to leave you with-

My daily dose... Once an island girl, always an island girl... my life. my law...

another daily dose...

all that is required of me

it's all about symmetry. 

sea of tranquility
a windowpane into the un-tame
somewhere in here; Neptune's domaine
somewhere, something's tapping
echoing my name
not in vain
no answer
relaxation- my capability,
unencumbered style of nobility

yea, seemed the perfect time to bust out my biography on... wait for it... Mata Hari...

either sunrise, or sunset run, I can't pinpoint it exactly...

for some reason, I see a Mallard duck here...

everything is illuminated; ah the joy of life!

sand dune spilling out to the sea

you're a heartbreaker when we part from each other

rock-hopping Cyprus style

I always like to get my feet dirty

On the road again. Leaving Burhan's Beach Bungalows. Destination unknown...

A church in the lovely town of Dipkarpaz

Lefkoşa- looking south to the UN Buffer Zone from the north

Roaming through a Han in the north searching for treasures...

cool Caravanserai in the old town- north

interesting architecture: church w/minarets 

trekking through the backstreets

just having a look-see

lost somewhere in a maze of alleyways

Button button, who's got the button?

scenic scenery

next to the Buffer Zone. Last chance... off to the south...

Hammamet on a waxing gibbous moon

Heading out of Tunis from Tunisville Train Station

Tunisian landscape in fleeting images escaping my quizzical gaze due to train travel. In some sense this gives me a sense of peace as all I can do is behold the beauty of the moment of landscape as it parades by. I feel calm & sedated by the late afternoon sun bursting in through my window seat as it tantalizes me to dare to ponder what knowledge the landscape indeed does hold. What memories those mountains must contain. Why was that strip clear-cut? Is there indeed a trail that leads up to those repeater towers? Can I get there? Will there be bandits awaiting our caravan on the other side? Where does the desert begin? So, this is my mode of thought on the train...

Introducing Hammamet- The sun nearly setting presented a romantic welcome. We wandered down Avenue Habib Bourguiba instinctively heading for the sea. The sea delivered. It always delivers. The moon is rising over the kasbah and and I'm ready to rock. The Hammamet Kasbah is especially intriguing as it's backdrop extends down onto the shores of the Mediterranean, broken only by a sweet promenade. Incidentally, it looks as if there is a little longboard break that goes off during storms... So solo ojo and myself, weary from our journey as well as anticipating where exactly we were going to sleep later that night, settle into a dreamy little outdoor cafe where throw pillows, carpets and big blocks of white limestone reigned. The open sky hovered above us with a faint outline of distant stars, cafe direits were served, sheesha (water pipe) loaded with tufa (apple-flavored tobacco), Tunisian Arabic rhythms flowing through a sweet sound system, incense wafting- hedonism (as in pleasure minus pain) prevailed in those moments. The minimal lights of the top of the kasbah hinted at the grandeur of the spectacle that we beheld: what were those walls of the kasbah trying to tell me? The history, the people, the battles, the architecture hinted at these truths, and the intoxicating smells took me back in time.

As time passed, soon we realized we needed to secure a sleeping spot for the night. I entertained the thought of sneaking onto the roof of the cafe right in the shadow of the towering kasbah walls... Reality found us wandering on the beach en route 2 kilometers towards Hammamet sud. A suitably dark spot of open beachfront between resorts determined our journey came to an end for the night. Setting up camp took all of... 2 minutes! Out came the sleeping bags and into them we went. Good night. Of course, I slept with one eye open for a long time as I had heard about the infamous 'bandits' that roam the beach. At some point I came to my senses and while watching the moon glide across the sky towards the west fell asleep. When I awoke the moon had already set, and my familiar night sky had emerged front and center stage. Cassiopeia was the first to catch my eye, then Pleiades, and finally the dippers big & little and Orion. As I laid awake and listened to the stars, I realized that Orion appeared as if 'he' was leaping out of the sky and diving into the ocean head first! This thought entertained me for quite a while- until contemplating what I would do if/when the 'merman' would rise from the ocean and come onshore and sweep me off my feet and take me back into the dark, murky depths with him to live in his oceanic kingdom. Yes, I must of dozed off at this point...

The moment of sunrise was a symphony of silent cacophony. I can't exactly recall what woke me but the noise of the sunrise indeed was brilliant in its textured hues of arrival. The silhouette of a long decrepit ship lay in waste a few meters from our sleep spot in its haunting splendor. Like an exoskeleton of a creature that still sparked life in its decay (and haven't I observed this phenomenon so many times in my archaeological career). 

said sleeping spot

we decamped (haha!) and headed up the beach to search for an early morning coffee. The town was still asleep at 8am but we did find this sweet space here serving illy Coffee- which was GREAT! Furthermore, a mamma kitty and her 2 kittens entertained us with their antics and all around good attitudes towards being street mascots. Their chocolate croissants were also pretty tasty and much appreciated.

this, of course, is Don Quichotie... 

but what is more interesting is where this found-objects sculpture is... It is the present day site of the International Cultural Centre, but is in fact a mansion designed ( & built) by Romanian millionaire George Sebastian. It's temporary inhabitants included architect Frank Lloyd Wright, uhhh... Erwin Rommel (Nazi commander) while the house was Axis HQ during WWII (he was supposedly a big fan of the baths there), and Winston Churchill (British Prime Minister during WWII) - who wrote his memoirs from here. The entire property is in a state of decaying splendor, and not exactly worth the $5 Tunisian Dinar entrance fee. Not to fear though, we made our efforts worthwhile in the end and roamed through the orchards there finding in our possession many succulent pomegranates, some aloe vera cuttings, and another clipping of another plant- which shall be the start of my small garden here in Tunis (Lil`D you should be proud of me- and I definitely thought of you during my diurnal raid- haha). 

Rommel's baths...

solo ojo's eagle eye spotted this mini turtle/tortoise creature guy- who peed when picked up. Poor thing was scared.

nice living no?

and... then we went back to the beach...

 

Day 2: Tunisian Outpost

Day 2: 01/Sept./2010

Through a thinly veiled haze of jet lag and associated hazards, i.e. sore throat, aching body and general confusion as to where north, south, east & west is in this new city I call home, I emerged this evening in search of sustenance. I have arrived on the Mediterranean shores at the end of Ramadan- which means procuring food during the daytime is next to impossible, in public anyway. My temporary residence is in the El Jardin area of Tunis. This area, at first glance, seems pleasant enough, and close to work with a 10-minute walking commute to work. I’m not sure I will stay in this area though as there is so much of the city to check out, and so very little time to do it.

Tonight, while in the elevator at Hotel Ariha, I was going up to meet a colleague for some dinner and some ‘talk story’ as we say in Hawai’i. As I was getting off on the wrong floor Analisa (a fiery Italian woman with loads of energy) stepped into my existence and now we are forever bound in that ‘happenstance’ meeting circumstance. As well we are now Face book friends- of course…Analisa (originally from Naples) was temporarily in town from Roma visiting friends. In a matter of a few seconds we were in the elevator together on a mission for some supper. My original dinner date did not appear at his doorstep when we finally found the right floor so we went off together.

Myself, I was weak from not eating since my arrival on Tuesday late morning (I could barely get out of bed to go out and get food but I knew the situation was soon to be dire if I didn’t find any), and Analisa on her last evening in the city before flying out in the morning. We scoured the streets looking for a restaurant but to no avail until we came upon Café De Palmerie on Rue De Egypte in the Lafayette neighborhood. As it is Ramadan only certain food was prepared. I had the most delicious Chorba and some crunchy filo pastry thing with an egg inside and some spices that topped it off. I devoured my food as we devoured our life histories. Together we had traveled the world, each relating different experiences and how they were to shape our lives. Analisa is an actress and I have been invited to Rome to see her perform. Of course I will make this happen.

Munir, a musician friend of Analisa, joined us afterwards for tea and conversation. Munir is apparently a fairly well known musician here in Tunisia (jazz-fusion, Sufi, etc) and he invited me to his performance on September 4 in La Marsa, a coastal community/resort area a few kilometers from Tunis.

So this is my story for the day but the point I want to express is that life is just so … happenstance. I started out my evening with every intention of having a difficult journey from jet lag, not eating, and general flu-like symptoms, and ended up encountering 2 more amazing people that populate the planet. I spoke neither French nor Arabic and Munir little English but all 3 of us were able to communicate and make a connection that will bind us together forever. This is a beautiful thing and one of the main reasons for my incredible journey out of the comfort of what I know to what I don’t know and just throwing myself into the arms of destiny.

On an ending note, I can’t wait to see our pictures posted on Face book! Now if only I can rid myself of this nasty sore throat that has attached itself to my being, trying to suck out the very life inside of me…